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Armor/AFV: Techniques
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WASHES
ANVIL1A
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Illinois, United States
Joined: May 24, 2004
KitMaker: 2 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, May 24, 2004 - 10:13 AM UTC
Under the advisement of my local hobby dealer, I recently purchased some Windsor Newton artist oils for applying washes to my works in progress. My problem is this, while I remembered the oils, I cannot remember his recommendation for how to thin them, turpentine or mineral spirits? I paint almost exclusively with enamels as my base, and naturally I'm concerned about removing the finish with the wrong thinning material.
sgirty
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Ohio, United States
Joined: February 12, 2003
KitMaker: 1,315 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, May 24, 2004 - 12:41 PM UTC
Hi. Understand your concern about washes and their thinning agents and how they can affect the paints underneath.

Havent had a whole lot of practice with applying 'washes' but will be glad to tell you what I've found out. Once the paint is cured--I use Polly S almost all the time--I give the model a spray of Glosscote varnish. Then add any decals I plan to use. After these are all down well and dry I will give the model a light coat or two of Dullcote to seal everything up good.

I use W/N and Grumbacher oils and thin them with the Grumbacher Pre-tested Oderless Thinner. The reason I use this stuff is that the craft store that is close by runs a 40% off cupon every week or so in the paper and thusly I get all my oils and thinners there on these, which is quite a savings.

I mix my washes about 90/10 thinner to oil. I've heard modelers say that a mix to the consistancy of a strong coffee works pretty good, and it seems to do okay for me as well.

Now I do have some Grumbacher Orignal Formula 'Grumline' thinner that I would not recommend for wahes as it must be stronger. I've tried this with a clean Q-tip to take up excess wash around and if rubbed just a tad too hard will take the paint right down to the primer underneath. This was demonstrated to me just today on my Dragon T-34/1940. Luckily a light touch up of Olive Drab fixed things up real good. So I labled this stuff for cleaning brushes only.

Hope this helps out a tad. Take care and welcome to the site. Sgirty
ANVIL1A
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Illinois, United States
Joined: May 24, 2004
KitMaker: 2 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, May 24, 2004 - 12:53 PM UTC
Sgirty,

Thanks for the advice, alas my local hobby distibutor has gone the way of the Dodo. In exchange for your tip, may I offer a decal application suggestion? Use Futura Brand floor polish. A bottle lasts quite a while, the decals set rather well, and if you make a mistake, it's easier to lift off of the painted surface without damaging the paint job or the decal. [email protected]
jw73
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Wojewodztwo Zachodniopomorskie, Poland
Joined: April 08, 2002
KitMaker: 148 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, May 24, 2004 - 12:58 PM UTC
Try Odourless White Spirit from Talens.
Emeritus
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Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Posted: Monday, May 24, 2004 - 08:37 PM UTC
Talking about odourless turpentine. I once used it for thinnig enamels, and it worked fine, untill I tried it with metallic paints. I was amazed as the odourless turpentine just didn't work with the metallic! Anyone had similar problems?
thebear
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: November 15, 2002
KitMaker: 3,960 posts
Armorama: 3,579 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 - 04:11 AM UTC
I just use good old lighter fluid ...works fine for me and doesn't attack the paint ...it had another great effect of taking the glossy shine off the oil paints.

Rick
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