Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
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Sanding gun barrels
otto
Joined: June 30, 2002
KitMaker: 72 posts
Armorama: 50 posts
Posted: Monday, July 22, 2002 - 03:45 AM UTC
I just tried a new idea (at least it is for me) for sanding the seams out of 2 piece gun barrels. Just glue the 2 halves together and let it dry. Apply putty ( I used Gunze Mr. surfacer 1000) let that dry also. CAREFULLY chuck the barrel into a cordless drill and spin. You then use your sanding pads and sand paper accordingly. Be sure to spin the barrel in both directions (clockwise and counterclockwise) to remove all the seams. It works GREAT and it is alot cheaper than some of the metal and brass barrels on the market today!! Give it a try!!!!! Otto
pipesmoker
Joined: January 31, 2002
KitMaker: 649 posts
Armorama: 379 posts
Posted: Monday, July 22, 2002 - 04:02 AM UTC
Otto,
Using an adjustable chuck in an electric screwdriver works well also.
Using an adjustable chuck in an electric screwdriver works well also.
TreadHead
Joined: January 12, 2002
KitMaker: 5,000 posts
Armorama: 2,868 posts
Posted: Monday, July 22, 2002 - 04:19 AM UTC
I don't generally have problems with the supplied barrels, but an excellent suggestion there otto!
Kind of like a cheap man's lathe, huh?
Tread.
Kind of like a cheap man's lathe, huh?
Tread.
Sundown
Joined: April 28, 2002
KitMaker: 67 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, July 22, 2002 - 12:39 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Apply putty ( I used Gunze Mr. surfacer 1000) let that dry also.
Can anyone tell me what the difference between Mr Surfacer 1000 and 500 is?
Simon
SS-74
Joined: May 13, 2002
KitMaker: 3,271 posts
Armorama: 2,388 posts
Posted: Monday, July 22, 2002 - 01:01 PM UTC
1000 is finer than 500, and here in HK, most of car and plane modeller using 1000, and armor model usually use 500, because they give a surface that is close to armor surface. I personally like 500 very much.
Army
Joined: June 16, 2002
KitMaker: 96 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, July 22, 2002 - 01:04 PM UTC
Excellent suggestion. Will try soon :-)
avukich
Joined: April 11, 2002
KitMaker: 760 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, July 22, 2002 - 08:23 PM UTC
Otto,
That is a great idea, but one question. In your post you say that you apply putty and that you use Mr. Surfacer. The problem is, Mr. Surfacer is a primer not a putty. So do you use putty or primer before sanding?
Thanks
That is a great idea, but one question. In your post you say that you apply putty and that you use Mr. Surfacer. The problem is, Mr. Surfacer is a primer not a putty. So do you use putty or primer before sanding?
Thanks
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Monday, July 22, 2002 - 08:28 PM UTC
Wouldn't just a can of Automotive gray primer do the same thing as Mr BIg Bucks Surfacer.
God $7.59 for a can of 5 ozs.
God $7.59 for a can of 5 ozs.
avukich
Joined: April 11, 2002
KitMaker: 760 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, July 22, 2002 - 08:35 PM UTC
Maybe, but I personally am more than willing to spend the $8 on the Mr. Surfacer after spending 3 months and $150 dollars putting together a model and all of the AM accessories to make sure that I don't ruin it during the painting. I have had mixed results with all other primers except Mr. Surfacer with which the only result that I have had is perfection. That stuff is wonderful.
SS-74
Joined: May 13, 2002
KitMaker: 3,271 posts
Armorama: 2,388 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 - 09:38 AM UTC
In HK, we also get the Mr Surface in a large Jar, and it kinda like wet putty, you can apply them with a brush, so when it dried up, it's good for filling small gaps, etc. I think that's what otto refers to.
Yes, Adam, Mr. Surface is the best, 1 months ago, they ran out of the stock of Mr. 500., so I had to get the Tamiya Primer which it says can prime both metal and plastic and resin. (Because I was told that when using Mr. 500, I have to apply a metal primer first then prime again use 500). SO I thought it's pretty good deal, because price is almost the same, and it comes with a large can twice the size as Mr. 500. But when I used it, it's so thick, and covered up a lot of detail works, and it smell really really evil. I think I am going back to Mr. 500 and stay there forever....
Yes, Adam, Mr. Surface is the best, 1 months ago, they ran out of the stock of Mr. 500., so I had to get the Tamiya Primer which it says can prime both metal and plastic and resin. (Because I was told that when using Mr. 500, I have to apply a metal primer first then prime again use 500). SO I thought it's pretty good deal, because price is almost the same, and it comes with a large can twice the size as Mr. 500. But when I used it, it's so thick, and covered up a lot of detail works, and it smell really really evil. I think I am going back to Mr. 500 and stay there forever....
avukich
Joined: April 11, 2002
KitMaker: 760 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 - 07:24 PM UTC
Dave,
You are probably right. We have the stuff in glass jars here in the States too, but I've never bought it so I didn't know what it was like. Thanks for the clarification.
I had the same experience with Testor's primer. I used it on a couple models with no problem, but one time it was really thick and it filled in lines like where the hatches closed. I was not very pleased.
You are probably right. We have the stuff in glass jars here in the States too, but I've never bought it so I didn't know what it was like. Thanks for the clarification.
Quoted Text
Yes, Adam, Mr. Surface is the best, 1 months ago, they ran out of the stock of Mr. 500., so I had to get the Tamiya Primer which it says can prime both metal and plastic and resin. (Because I was told that when using Mr. 500, I have to apply a metal primer first then prime again use 500). SO I thought it's pretty good deal, because price is almost the same, and it comes with a large can twice the size as Mr. 500. But when I used it, it's so thick, and covered up a lot of detail works, and it smell really really evil. I think I am going back to Mr. 500 and stay there forever....
I had the same experience with Testor's primer. I used it on a couple models with no problem, but one time it was really thick and it filled in lines like where the hatches closed. I was not very pleased.
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 - 07:26 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Maybe, but I personally am more than willing to spend the $8 on the Mr. Surfacer after spending 3 months and $150 dollars putting together a model and all of the AM accessories to make sure that I don't ruin it during the painting. I have had mixed results with all other primers except Mr. Surfacer with which the only result that I have had is perfection. That stuff is wonderful.
Okay I will break down and drop $8.00 on a can. Geesh wonder what is the difference?
avukich
Joined: April 11, 2002
KitMaker: 760 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 - 07:29 PM UTC
Mr Surfacer 1000 is as smooth as silk and it goes on very cleanly and evenly.
Mr Surfacer 500 is a little rougher and should be used on areas that need some texture such as the turret of a T-34 or a Sherman. It also goes on very cleanly and evenly.
Mr Surfacer 500 is a little rougher and should be used on areas that need some texture such as the turret of a T-34 or a Sherman. It also goes on very cleanly and evenly.
SS-74
Joined: May 13, 2002
KitMaker: 3,271 posts
Armorama: 2,388 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 - 10:12 AM UTC
I never tried 1000 before, I heard it's for car and plane people, but now it makes sense since most of the German panzers have very even surface, so maybe give it a try sometimes.
One more thing, is this only me or you guys also find that a completely constructed model which just got primed looked really neat... #:-)
One more thing, is this only me or you guys also find that a completely constructed model which just got primed looked really neat... #:-)
drewgimpy
Joined: January 24, 2002
KitMaker: 835 posts
Armorama: 388 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 - 11:16 AM UTC
So if I get this right you guys prime the whole model with Mr. surface before painting every time? I have used it to cover putty but never on the whole model, should I do that?
SS-74
Joined: May 13, 2002
KitMaker: 3,271 posts
Armorama: 2,388 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 - 11:23 AM UTC
Yes, Andrew, I cover the whole thing everytime before proceeding to paint. I personally perfer to do it this way, because it gives me an idea of if there is anything need to be fixed, and also easier for me to paint.
avukich
Joined: April 11, 2002
KitMaker: 760 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 - 07:22 PM UTC
Andrew,
Yes, I prime the entire model before painting. Like Dave said, It shows you if there is anything that needs fixed because you can easily see if a seem that you filled with putty wasn't completely filled or if you missed a sink mark, etc. I've caught errors multiple times by priming the entire model. Besides, you know that you are going to get a nice coat of paint on the entire model if it is completely primed.
HTH
Yes, I prime the entire model before painting. Like Dave said, It shows you if there is anything that needs fixed because you can easily see if a seem that you filled with putty wasn't completely filled or if you missed a sink mark, etc. I've caught errors multiple times by priming the entire model. Besides, you know that you are going to get a nice coat of paint on the entire model if it is completely primed.
HTH
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