Have a PE set coming in with my Firefly Vc, and since this will be my first attempt at using PE, I need some help.

I assume that you attatch with CA, is there another alternative?

As far as bending, I know that there is a small metal brake available, but out of budget. What else can be used?

Any other tips or tricks that you may have are also welcome. Remember, this is my first time using PE, so even the simplest things will help tremendously.

Thanks, John

I use CA glue for my PE, but i also herd os using clear lacquer for gluing down real small parts. The tools i use are a good pair of straight tweezers, a small steel ruler, a small pair of needle nose pliers without teeth, and a exacto blade.
THE MAIN THING TO REMEMBER IS LOTSOF PATIENCE!!!!!!!!

A trick I use when gluing PE with CA glue is to get a piece of wax paper and place a small puddle of CA glue on it. You then trasfer the glue to the PE part with a pin. Since CA glue hardens thanks to moisture, placing it on wax paper will allow it to stay unhardened for hours. I create the puddle on the wax paper and can model for 2 -3 hours and it will not have gotten any thicker yet.

As for bending, I use a small pair of smooth needle nose pliers and grip the part right where the bend should occur and then bend the part with my finger. Another alternative that someone hear (I think) mentioned is to use a door hinge as a poor man's Hold N Fold. Search around on this site for info. regarding this as I think that this was in article form with a picture illustrating how to use the hinge. There is also a good article on Eduard's site http://eduard.rvsnet.cz/ about how to work with PE if you click on their "Info" link.

HTH

I use a wooden board to cut things with my x-acto. I use a sharp blade for that work.
I have a good pair of tweezers, and to apply glue to small surfaces
I use a toothpick... If the piec is very small, I'll probably apply a
small quantity of glue on the surface where the small part will be coming.
When using the tweezers, beware to part launches !
So as to the kind of glue : it's CA all the way for me !

Hi,

Few years ago I had the same problem sa you. I bought my first PE set from ABER (for Tiger I)... and problems started. At least I had to bought second- similar set to put all details I wanted to.

Pete is right. The most important thing is patience. A lot of it.

For several years I use Loctite CA- and IMHO this is the best product (on Polish market).

When I work with small PE parts- I put big (AO format) sheet of paper on my desk. So when you drop (by mistake) small part- you can find it easily.

Sometimes big problem (because of fast drying time of CA glue) is gluing PE details to plastic. You have to put the element exactly in place. Correcting it is almost impossible. But you can use small trick: first glue this PE part to very thin sheet of plastic (using CA glue). Than you should cut plastic into correct shape (leave only glued to PE part). This allow you to glue this PE part to your model using "normal" plastic glue.

For sure almost all of you glued your fingers with CA. My friend from Israel- Eyal sent me excellent method of removing glue. You should put your fingers into Coca Cola. It will remove glue from your fingers.

Hope it helps,

Michal

I love that trick about coca cola ! I'll try it someday...
When you see that coca cola is supposed to be as efficient as
nail polish remover, it just makes you wonder what it does in
your stomach !

This is one of the reasons I don't drink it We have a lot of another drinks :-)

Michal

I just tried that wax paper trick avukich recommended and it works really well. Thanks.

Nic

John,

You have gotten some great tips here. One thing I may add though, PE can certainly make your models more detailed and realistic. Just remember to check your references to make sure the part you are replacing with the PE is more accurate than the original kit part!

Also, some of these PE sets are too intense for me! Don't get frustrated by trying to use every single piece. Start with the things that you really want to use (engine screens for example) and that are big enough to see without an electron microscope!

Just be patient and remember that a few well-done PE upgrades will be better than a ton of shabby ones! :-)

Steve

I do my cutting on one of those white plastic cutting boards. Over the last few years I've tried the numerous applicators that are available and found the following.....the one with twin fork at the end broke the first time I tried to clean off dried CA. The solid metal one that has a litte ball hook at the end work well where I need larger amounts of glue Like when joining a large resin piece to another or platic hull.I.ve got the one thats supposed to work like a lab siphon using capillary action with your finger(sorta like playing with astraw as akid)HAvent used it yet as it has the same apparent cleaning problems as the fork type. for small PE parts or for placing small amounts of CA I use soft touch brush sticks. they look like toothpicks but are a soft rubbery platic . Glue flows easily off the end and it can be bent a little to get into hard toreach spots.

I also keep a collection of different types of tweezers angled straight tensiond both ways (press to releaseand release to release). Having an anvil is handy and so is a small vise and small hammer. THe list can go on and on, Start with these basics and then build up those tools as you need them(and can afford them).Just let me reiterate one point, even your breath let alone a fan or dropped part can send PE flying into the nether reaches of the lost sock drawer. Try to work with a clear work topand hold downthe piece you cutting and beware the pressure on the parts when holding them in at tweezer. I don't want to remember how many parts went AWL when i wqeezed to hard.Welcome to the world Of PE.ITs just the first step on the road to AMS.

Josh Weingarten
Aka shiryon :-)

If a person was going to be using alot of PE in their kits, and had about $50 US laying around, then they should really consider getting 'The Small Shops' "Hold and Fold" set. It is not cheap, but it can really help you to produce some really nice, sharp folds. They have a cutting set too, which is some pieces of black plexiglass and razorblades. Cutting photoetch on this is supposed to help cut down on the launching of your PE parts into a low-earth orbit.
Doc
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19K
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I made a tool to dispense super glue with, by using a sewing needle and a piece of scrap sprue. It's on page 3 of my Model Maker's Tool Box article. This is a good article for a beginner to read on what to start filling your modeling tool box with.

Hi Doc, I totally agree with you, I swear to that cutting set, they are great.

How many other people own a 'hold and fold' and like it ? I keep hearing about this toolbut have never seen one. Does it really make working with PE easier or is it just another fancy toy?As I do alot of PE if its worth it I'm game.

Josh Weingarten
aKa shiryon

Hi Josh,

It totally worth it. you can visit their website. www.thesmallshop.com and have a look. But the thing is Small shop's order following is rather slow, so you might want to try Mission Models, they carry it too. It comes in a various size, if I remeber correct, they comes with 2", 4", and 8" one, I got the 8", the cutting kits, both are great, and also their roll set, which is not really worth the money, just a bunch of wooden rods. Since I am Chinese, I figure that I could use my various size of chopsticks to substitue the set after I got it...well.... :-)

Definitely worth the investment.

I agree that it is worth it. Makes folding those little strips of brass into various shapes much easier. I also agree that you should get it from a retailer as opposed to from the manufacturer. The retailer will have one on hand, the manufacturer will send you one once he fills the retailers that order big lots of them. It took a couple of months to get mine.

I also suggest the 4" one. Two inch seemed sort of small and the 8" one seemed unnecessary. I didn't think I would be bending anything big enough to require the 8" version, the 4" seemed good for doing tank fenders and the like.

Thanks SAbot,ss74. Looks like I'll need to save up a bit more money for it . Iwas saving for that AA ward laFrance, but5 it''ll wait.

Josh weingarten
aKA shiryon :-)

Hi guys-

One tip I've learned to prevent "small part launch" is to use double sided clear tape.

What I do, is lay down a strip of double sided tape on my cutting surface (I use a clear sheet of plexi-glass) and lay the PE fret flat on this tape before I cut the part off with my knife. Just make sure the part you are cutting from the fret is over the tape and it won't launch when you cut. The tape holds it in place.

Later-
Yellow