Had no idea where to post this one...

I'm about to commence work on a diorama (the usual planning period and ordering of kits) which I intend to ship 11,000 miles from its place of construction. I'm wondering just how the hell I'm going to build this thing so that when its sent, it suffers pretty no critical damage. (if a little bit of flock comes loose, well, I can live with that)

I'm currently figuring on making a base with a groove that a lid can be slotted into, and then make up a cheap MDF "lid" to protect it during shipping. But thats only part of the problem.

Obviously I have to glue EVERYTHING down with strong glue, etc, but I'm hunting for more tips/advice.

Has anyone ever done this before ? Its got to travel either surface or airmail from Australia to England, and arrive into the hands of people who have NO IDEA about these things -so it has to simply unpacked and opened, then given to its intended recipient.

Anything anyone can tell me would be greatly appreciated.

I once shipped a MLRS launcher on a base and in a plexiglass case from Korea to Oklahoma without problem. The key is to immobilize it so it does not move. I secured the base to the bottom of the box and then wrapped the plexi case in shipping peanuts and sealed it up. Next place the first box into a slightly larger box with peanuts all around as well. The two box method allows the outer box to absorb any shock and the inner to stay secure and safe from bumps, etc. I also shipped my M123A1C and M15A1 trailer to Japan from California the same way without incident.

I ship my dio's around the world to customers and have developed a method that I think works quite well.

1) Find a WOOD sided-box that will fit your work
2) Hand place cotton around small figures and delicate work.
3) Seal the work in plastic sheeting and put into box.
3) place "peanut stryo" over the entire project
4) cover the peanuts with newspaper
5) spray "air curred" liquid styofoam (avaliable at the DYI stores)... typically used to seal cracks, The stuff will begin to expand to find the area of the box.
6) Once the foam has "cured" and is hard, close the box, and ship it off!

It also helps to send/email a photo of what is inside of that box to the recipient so they know what to expect when they open it. A photo will guide them as to where to set a model down on the base, if it isn't glued in place. Written handling instructions sent by email and with the project are also helpfull. The recipient may not be at all familiar with handling models and may need to know where to grasp that Long Tom Howitzer! Boxes within boxes should also be marked as to which end is up. If at all possible it is prudent to ship a heavy base or object separate from fragile miniatures. This is debatable, as one package is easier to track. Hope all goes well.

Since a majority of my stuff is commission work or sold via my web page or Ebay - I ship allot. So far only one item has sustain any minor damage and that appears to be do to neglect by the shipping company. Normal shipping procedure is similar to that mention with a few minor differences:

1. Make sure all Figures/vehicles are secure. I tighten my vehicles down with a bolt drilled through the model and base and secured with a nut in a countersunk hole in the base. All Figures are secured by a steel rod drilled into the leg and then epoxied to the base.

2. I use two boxes One approximately 1-2” bigger then the dimension of the Diorama/model. This set inside a second box that is 2” +/- larger then the first.

3. A layer of Styrofoam beads (I prefer bead over the peanuts as the beads are finer and help to immobilize the subject.) is laid down in the first box. The subject is center in the box and the remainder of the box filled with the Styrofoam bead. I shake the box to let the bead settle, but never force the beads in. The box is then taped.

4. A layer of Styrofoam beads is laid down in the second box. The first box is center in the box and the remainder of the box filled with the Styrofoam bead (peanuts are OK here). I shake the box to let the bead settle, but again never force the beads in. And instruction sheet on opening ( explained in #5, pictures of finished product and invoice are placed on top and the box is then closed and sealed.

5. Instruction sheet mentioned in #4 show how to open box. Most damage receive when I first began shipping my work was in opening the box after it was received... people pulling or dumping to get rid of the Styrofoam. Using a marker and straight edge, I draw a line 2 inches from bottom of each box and all the way around the box.. I then direct the opener to cut along this line with a razor/box cutter and lift the top section up and off. This release the beads from the model without dumping or digging in and possibly causing damage.

Hope that helps!

John
www.johnneill.com