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Friul Tracks and resin questions
SS-74
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Vatican City
Joined: May 13, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, July 28, 2002 - 10:29 AM UTC
Hi guys,

It's my first time working with both Friul tracks and Resins, so I have a couple questions to ask. Hope you guys can help me out.

Friul Tracks:

While assemble the tracks, the tracks feel kinda of greasy/oily, so I suppose wash them is a must, what do I wash these tracks in, should I do it after I assembled the whole tracks or do it in individual links?

Resin:

I am using super glue to glue the resin stuff, but it seems that it takes forever to dry, is there any way to do it, or I am using the wrong kind of glue?

Thanks guys!
MLD
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Vermont, United States
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Posted: Sunday, July 28, 2002 - 11:06 AM UTC
For the fruil track, most any grease cutting dish washing liquid is good in my book.

For resin, superglue is good, but accellerator is great! You should be able to find it in the super clue section of the hobbyshop, usually in a pump spray bottle.
I ding this and use a small brush to paint the accellerator above the glued parts and let the acc run down over. Either that or if I'm getting lazy, just unscrew the top of the pump and use the tubing end from inside the bottle to put the drop of acc where I need it.

I also read a tip somewhere to glue very very thin plastic sheet to the resin parts w superglue off the vehicle. Then use your reg model glue to glue the plastic to plastic joint of the bottom of the now plastic-covered bottom of the resin part. It sounds great in theory, but I haven't tried it out yet.
HTH
Mike
Folgore
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Posted: Sunday, July 28, 2002 - 11:07 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I am using super glue to glue the resin stuff, but it seems that it takes forever to dry, is there any way to do it, or I am using the wrong kind of glue?


I think you might be using the wrong kind of glue. I use Flash Cyanoacrylate Super Glue (Medium consistency) and the drying time is quite fast, though I still have time to position the pieces. I'm not sure why your pieces would be taking so long to dry.

Nic
SS-74
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Vatican City
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Posted: Sunday, July 28, 2002 - 11:21 AM UTC
Thank you guys for your help. I am using one called Alpha Alpha something which is made in Japan, and I had that glue for maybe a year or two. Maybe it lost it's stickness?

Anyway, I will try another glue tonight, see how it goes...Thanks!

Dave
salt6
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Oklahoma, United States
Joined: February 17, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, July 28, 2002 - 11:40 AM UTC
You might want to try two part 5 minute epoxy to glue the larger resin parts. Super glue is great stuff but it has little shear strenght. Super glue for the small stuff and epoxy on the larger joints would work better.
SS-74
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Vatican City
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Posted: Sunday, July 28, 2002 - 11:51 AM UTC

Quoted Text

You might want to try two part 5 minute epoxy to glue the larger resin parts. Super glue is great stuff but it has little shear strenght. Super glue for the small stuff and epoxy on the larger joints would work better.


Steve,

This is actually I am doing now, I am an impatient man. I am using small bits of putty to hold the thing, then apply superglue now. Can't see myself holding the parts together for 5 minutes....

penpen
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Hauts-de-Seine, France
Joined: April 11, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, July 28, 2002 - 04:52 PM UTC
Big chunks of resin, like those found in big scale figures, tend to be heavy for the glue only.
So to be on the safe side, you might drill a small hole to add a piece of metal rod.
pipesmoker
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Virginia, United States
Joined: January 31, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, July 28, 2002 - 08:43 PM UTC
Dave,
Check your hobby shop for "tire glue". It is a rubberized black cyanoacrylate that the R/C car modelers use. I works great for bonding white metal to resin. Failing that, stay with the 5 minute epoxy.
HTH
CaptainJack
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Luxembourg, Belgium
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Posted: Sunday, July 28, 2002 - 08:54 PM UTC
For de-greasing the following products are useful:

1. Acetone
2. Ether
3. Denatured alcohol
4. Lighter fluid
5. Methanol
6. window cleaner
7. Petrol
9. isoporyl alcohol
10. Left over whiskey (oops)
11. Trichlorothene.
12. Dish washing liquid

Be careful and read the instructions w/the chemical. Certain are toxic, others dangerous (acetone/Thricholo etc). Work in well ventilated area. Don't leave parts, like resin too long as they risk being damaged. Generally, I opt for acetone, which gives a good bite to the primer to come.

Jackology
penpen
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Hauts-de-Seine, France
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Posted: Sunday, July 28, 2002 - 09:52 PM UTC
As Jack told you, beware because some of these products are toxic, not to say poisonous (acetone...).
On the other hand, a bit of whiskey... but only once all the modeling is done... #:-)
SS-74
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Vatican City
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Posted: Monday, July 29, 2002 - 09:30 AM UTC

Quoted Text

For de-greasing the following products are useful:

10. Left over whiskey (oops)

Be careful and read the instructions w/the chemical. Certain are toxic, others dangerous (acetone/Thricholo etc). Work in well ventilated area. Don't leave parts, like resin too long as they risk being damaged. Generally, I opt for acetone, which gives a good bite to the primer to come.

Jackology


Would Vodka do the same trick? I vaguely remember that I have a quarter of a bottle left over in the freezer from last party I held.... #:-) #:-)
Tiger1
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Posted: Monday, July 29, 2002 - 11:39 AM UTC
When using Fruil Tracks, I do not bother cleaning them with any solution. I either weather the tracks in Railroad weathering solution, or prime and paint. When I use any resin parts I always super glue them. I think it is not a good idea to use regular liquid cement (i.e. model masters or testors glue).
TreadHead
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Colorado, United States
Joined: January 12, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 08:35 AM UTC
I agree with Tiger1 in regards to the Fruil's. I generally use the same solution to weather them, and hence, the grease is a foregone conclusion.
The resin issue on the other hand is, I believe, an issue of the 'shelf-life' of the super glue. If super glue is left a while in high temperature's, or in the sun. It's effectiveness is deminished.
Sound's silly, but true. I would venture that if you used a brand new bottle of CA glue it would perform as expected.

Tread.

P.S. Make sure you properly wash the resin before gluing...
SS-74
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Vatican City
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Posted: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 09:33 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I agree with Tiger1 in regards to the Fruil's. I generally use the same solution to weather them, and hence, the grease is a foregone conclusion.
The resin issue on the other hand is, I believe, an issue of the 'shelf-life' of the super glue. If super glue is left a while in high temperature's, or in the sun. It's effectiveness is deminished.
Sound's silly, but true. I would venture that if you used a brand new bottle of CA glue it would perform as expected.

Tread.

P.S. Make sure you properly wash the resin before gluing...


You know what, got myself a new CA glue last night, worked great! Thanks guys.

shiryon
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New York, United States
Joined: April 26, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 09:42 AM UTC
I wash my tracks after I assemble the whole legnth, then paint. For Ca glue I use different viscosities for different jobs . the thinnest for general gluing the thickest for filing gaps.Always however with the accelorator handy.

Josh Weingarten
aKa shiryon
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