Which Mr Surfacer for Italeri M4A1 76mm
July 24 2004 at 8:47 AM

"I don't have any experience with this stuff. I read on "Modeling the US army of WWII" that the Italeri kit needs texture added f.e. with Mr surfacer (500?). I know this is some kind of paint that adds texture and that by adding progressive layers you can add more "texture".

I know there is a Mr Surfacer 500 and a Mr Surfacer 1000, which one is rougher/ smoother? ( I assume that's the difference.) And should I get the kind in a spray can or the kind in a jar?

Finally, how many coats would I need. ( I missed out on the Article by Steve Zaloga on his M4A1 76mm in Military Modeling.)

thanks very much for any help, best regards,

Marc Brandes


> Cast Surfaces July 24 2004, 11:38 AM
>
> Marc,
>
> Steve's article on the Cobra Sherman's doesn't mention which Mr. Surfacer he used or how many coats. From the photographs it looks like a simple primer.
>
> For US castings, like on the hull of an M4A1, the finish is fairly smooth, so go with the finest grain possible.
>
> I think this would be the Mr. Surfacer 1000. It comes grey out of a bottle or you can get a spray can in white.
>
> Mr. Surfacer 500 only comes in bottle form.
>
> WARNING: With either product use plenty of ventilation!!! Used indoors with the windows closed, it could be hazardous to your marriage and/or family relations and may bring your hobby to a screeching halt. Not to mention killing a few brain cells.
>
> Another option is Small Shop's new "Cast-A-Coat" powders. Here is a link:
>
> http://misc.kitreview.com/tools/castacoatreviewcs_1.htm
>
> hth,
> mike




My reply:

I have been using Mr. Surfacer 500 & 1000 for almost 20 years now and I can pass on a little wisdom in their use and properties:

>>From the photographs it looks like a simple primer.

It isn't really. Mr. Surfacer is a primer with added solids. The 500 or 1000 designation more correctly relates to the viscosity of the mix that, I'm sure, is proportional to the solids suspended in the solvent.

>>For US castings, like on the hull of an M4A1, the finish is fairly smooth, so go with the finest grain possible.

Both surfacers will leave absolutely smooth, paint-like finishes if applied with a brush, it's just that the 500 will leave a little thicker layer.

>>I think this would be the Mr. Surfacer 1000. It comes grey out of a bottle or you can get a spray can in white.

While the colour description is right, see above for the practical implications.

>>WARNING: With either product use plenty of ventilation!!!

Absolutely! Just like typical "spot & glaze" type putties this product thins with toluene and has a very high toluene to solid ratio. 90+% of this stuff is solvent, so beware! Lacquer thinner will cut Mr. Surfacer to allow you to clean your brushes, but frequently contains enough other solvents to not properly thin Mr. Surfacer for further use. If your container thickens up use Testor's liquid cement or, better, actual Toluene, if you can find any.

>>Another option is Small Shop's new "Cast-A-Coat" powders.

As nice as this product is, it is also exceptionally coarse. This actually does have a grain to it and it is very heavy. Personally I think it's too heavy for most 1/35 applications. It would make great concrete or the like or even good sand dunes and gravel roads. Others like it a lot, though, so evaluate it for yourself.

Now, having said all that, how might one get a cast finish using Mr. Surfacer? Essentially the method is the same as was described using liquid cement. Paint on an area about 2 or 3 square inches and let it dry for a minute or so. Then start stippling all over. When the product leaves small peaks like lemon meringue, move on to the next area. Judge for yourself how large an area you can do before it dries too much to stipple. Start out with a smaller area and work up as your experience grows.

As has been said, American castings tended to be relatively smoother than their British or Soviet allies so once you have let the entire thing dry for a couple of days lightly sand off the tops of the bumps (which is what the "peaks" will turn in to when dry). Not too much, just enough to leave a little texture. Practice makes perfect.

So, if this is essentially the same as using liquid glue, why bother? I like using Mr. Surfacer because it adds a little material to the surface and fills any small imperfections left by my otherwise ham-fisted construction techniques. Also it works just as well on resin or white metal as liquid glue most assuredly does not.

HTH

Paul Roberts
Interim Vice President
AMPS