Hi guys
Im still doing my model here, but not finished yet, bottom suspensions not ready yet, i will do it someday
I just done the body of this OPEL by Italeri, and i need your comments.
I tried to get a chipped paint, i did with pencil, but the results not very good. do u have any idea how to get good chip paint using tamiya arcylic ? what colour should i choose? thks
cheers
Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
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OPEL MAULTIER in progress
ACHTUNG
Victoria, Australia
Joined: May 13, 2003
KitMaker: 266 posts
Armorama: 187 posts
Joined: May 13, 2003
KitMaker: 266 posts
Armorama: 187 posts
Posted: Monday, July 26, 2004 - 02:01 PM UTC
Golikell
Noord-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: October 25, 2002
KitMaker: 1,757 posts
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Joined: October 25, 2002
KitMaker: 1,757 posts
Armorama: 914 posts
Posted: Monday, July 26, 2004 - 03:44 PM UTC
The drivers side door is pretty rough, what happened?
scoccia
Milano, Italy
Joined: September 02, 2002
KitMaker: 2,606 posts
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Joined: September 02, 2002
KitMaker: 2,606 posts
Armorama: 1,721 posts
Posted: Monday, July 26, 2004 - 03:59 PM UTC
It's not that easy to say which is the bes way to do paint chipping, in my view it depends quite a lot on what chipping effect you want to reach:
- a very soft pencil is great to reproduce small areas of bare metal and I use it mainly on grab handles and nuts/bolts
- the salt technique (base coat > salt > camo > remove salt) is very realistic and easy to use on medium to big areas where you want to give a wore aspect to your paint (i.e. standard camouflaged vehichles receiving a coat of sand to operate in the desert and the sandstorms "sand it" revealing the underlying camo)
- for all the rest I use paint (I prefer enamel but is only matter of what you feel more comfortable with) applied with a very small painbrush. The colour depends on the subject and how the factory painting process was
Ciao
- a very soft pencil is great to reproduce small areas of bare metal and I use it mainly on grab handles and nuts/bolts
- the salt technique (base coat > salt > camo > remove salt) is very realistic and easy to use on medium to big areas where you want to give a wore aspect to your paint (i.e. standard camouflaged vehichles receiving a coat of sand to operate in the desert and the sandstorms "sand it" revealing the underlying camo)
- for all the rest I use paint (I prefer enamel but is only matter of what you feel more comfortable with) applied with a very small painbrush. The colour depends on the subject and how the factory painting process was
Ciao
beachbum
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Joined: March 05, 2004
KitMaker: 1,735 posts
Armorama: 586 posts
Joined: March 05, 2004
KitMaker: 1,735 posts
Armorama: 586 posts
Posted: Monday, July 26, 2004 - 04:52 PM UTC
I like the half wound down door window. What I do for chipped paint is usually I paint Tamiya's Flat Aluminium at places where the chipped area will be. Follow-up with a coat of reddish brown to simulate the anti-rust painted on most vehicles and then lastly the vehicle's base color.
To carry out the chipping some people use salt crystals stuck over the Flat Aluminium before applying the other 2 coats and others use a very sharp blade or scapel to scrap of the base paint together with a bit of the anti-rust coat.
I've used both and I find the salt method more useful in areas where chipping and wear and tear is greater like near bumpers and mudguards while using the scapel method simulates minor chipping and scrapes like on door edges and such.
To carry out the chipping some people use salt crystals stuck over the Flat Aluminium before applying the other 2 coats and others use a very sharp blade or scapel to scrap of the base paint together with a bit of the anti-rust coat.
I've used both and I find the salt method more useful in areas where chipping and wear and tear is greater like near bumpers and mudguards while using the scapel method simulates minor chipping and scrapes like on door edges and such.
MrRoo
Queensland, Australia
Joined: October 07, 2002
KitMaker: 3,856 posts
Armorama: 2,984 posts
Joined: October 07, 2002
KitMaker: 3,856 posts
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Posted: Monday, July 26, 2004 - 05:32 PM UTC
I have revells copy of this kit and it annoyed me so much that I threw it in a draw in disgust when the drive wheels kept shearing off when trying to put the kit tracks on.
Your paint job is/was a good attempt at doing a battered desert vehicle but I, personly, think it a little overdone.
I will be stripping mine one day and redoing it with humbrol enamels and hopefully a set of replacement tracks if AM ones are to be had.
Your paint job is/was a good attempt at doing a battered desert vehicle but I, personly, think it a little overdone.
I will be stripping mine one day and redoing it with humbrol enamels and hopefully a set of replacement tracks if AM ones are to be had.
straightedge
Ohio, United States
Joined: January 18, 2004
KitMaker: 1,352 posts
Armorama: 629 posts
Joined: January 18, 2004
KitMaker: 1,352 posts
Armorama: 629 posts
Posted: Monday, July 26, 2004 - 06:52 PM UTC
Ricky, are you the one that posted a while back about having problems with the rear suspension on this Opel Maultier, say like two weeks ago..
I just got my Opel Maultier last night, and I was surprised they got rubber steering tires in this kit, when all the others I got are plastic tires on the trucks.
Kerry
I just got my Opel Maultier last night, and I was surprised they got rubber steering tires in this kit, when all the others I got are plastic tires on the trucks.
Kerry
MrRoo
Queensland, Australia
Joined: October 07, 2002
KitMaker: 3,856 posts
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Joined: October 07, 2002
KitMaker: 3,856 posts
Armorama: 2,984 posts
Posted: Monday, July 26, 2004 - 07:26 PM UTC
yes Kerry mine had the rubber steering tyres on it as well and this is why when (and if) I ever redo it I will add resin AM ones. I will need to buy the set for the Opel Blitz but at least they will look better.
ACHTUNG
Victoria, Australia
Joined: May 13, 2003
KitMaker: 266 posts
Armorama: 187 posts
Joined: May 13, 2003
KitMaker: 266 posts
Armorama: 187 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 27, 2004 - 09:47 AM UTC
Hi folks thanks for your comment and idea for chiiping paint
i use power glue to attach the kit, honestly i didint enjoy my time when i build this kit
100% agree with you
thks
Quoted Text
The drivers side door is pretty rough, what happened?
i use power glue to attach the kit, honestly i didint enjoy my time when i build this kit
Quoted Text
I have revells copy of this kit and it annoyed me so much that I threw it in a draw in disgust when the drive wheels kept shearing off when trying to put the kit tracks on.
100% agree with you
thks