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Armor/AFV: Techniques
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Seperate track links??
Hisham
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Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Armorama: 6,363 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 - 03:06 AM UTC
I'm trying to get back into modelling after years of just watching from a distance. I'm planning on building a Dragon (Shilka), and that will be the first time I tackle seperate track links. What would be the most practical order for building them and painting them, and the road wheels. Keep in mind that I'm a beginner. I kind of need something like (The idiot's guide to seperate track links). Thanks.
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 - 05:15 AM UTC
This is how I build them. I build the sections a link at a time, flat on the workbench. Start by building the bottom run of tracks in one long section, next do the same with the top run. Now build the two sections that angle up at either end as flat pieces, then attach them to the bottom run. Next, I assemble the 4 or 5 links that go around the return road wheel and sprocket. These I attach to the upper run. I paint the whole model wothout the track. I also paint and weather the track with it off the model. Once all this is dry, slip the upper track in place and glue the upper and lower sections together. For the glou, I use liquid cement to glue all the links together. I attach the upper and lower section using super glue.
Hope that makes sense.
Hisham
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Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Armorama: 6,363 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 - 06:02 AM UTC
Yes, it does make sense in my mind. I can pretty much picture what your saying in my mind. I'm just going to have to go for it and see how the first one goes. So regular cement stays soft long enough so can shape the links that go around the return wheel and drive sproket? And in the end you end up with a sort of jigzo puzzle type thing that fits together around the wheels? I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks a lot.
Mech-Maniac
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Virginia, United States
Joined: April 16, 2004
KitMaker: 2,240 posts
Armorama: 1,319 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 - 07:15 AM UTC
i'd actually NOT recommend you building the dragon seperate track links, first, i think they're a pain in the butt, getting them to have that natural sag affect is hard trying to bend the seperate track links, and if it breaks, you gotta start over.

it was just to frustrating for me so i gave in and ordered some aftermarket tracks
Petro
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Connecticut, United States
Joined: November 02, 2003
KitMaker: 984 posts
Armorama: 846 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 - 08:54 AM UTC
I just did my first set of dragon tracks. They are not as hard as some lead on. Patience is key.
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 - 08:57 AM UTC
I agree with Petro. Take your time be careful and they will come out looking great.
viper29_ca
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New Brunswick, Canada
Joined: October 18, 2002
KitMaker: 2,247 posts
Armorama: 1,138 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 - 12:34 PM UTC
Hey Hisham,

If you don't feel like tackling the Dragon indy tracks, you can pick up a set of Modelkasten aftermarket tracks, they basically snap together. Basically cut out 88 (I think) per side and they snap together and are completly workable.

Also the kit comes with a set of road wheels that are better detailed than the Dragon kit wheels, also the aftermarket set has metal drive sprokets, which are not only tougher, but better detailed than the kit drive sprokets.

Gives you a choice anyway.
Hisham
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Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Armorama: 6,363 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 - 03:30 PM UTC
Those Modelkasten tracks look really tempting, but the problem, obviously, is their price. They cost twice what I paid for the kit itself. And being still a beginner, I think I'll have to go with the kit's tracks for now. Maybe if I ever become as good as some of the modellers whose work I've seen here...
Leeran
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Anhui, China / 简体
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 37 posts
Armorama: 31 posts
Posted: Friday, September 24, 2004 - 09:36 PM UTC
Hi Hisham
I don't know if it's your question is still relevant, but I think you should stay with the Dragon individual tracks... they may take hours to seperate, sand, and prepare, but believe me, the result is really satisfying
SpiritsEye
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: May 09, 2004
KitMaker: 1,041 posts
Armorama: 533 posts
Posted: Friday, September 24, 2004 - 11:08 PM UTC
i'd agree with some posts above Hisham..

stick with the kit's tracks and patience is the key!

i usually do the indi-tracks in a few days...no hurries

once you get it, you've got a beauty!
Hisham
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Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Armorama: 6,363 posts
Posted: Friday, September 24, 2004 - 11:15 PM UTC
Hey there Leeran and Danny, thanks for your input. Actually, that's what I decided to do. I clean a few links every day at night and then on my day off from work, I make a length of them. No way I'll pay 30 dollars for a set of tracks!! Thanks again guys.
DutchBird
#068
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Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 09, 2003
KitMaker: 1,144 posts
Armorama: 526 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 25, 2004 - 01:49 AM UTC
Hisham,

there is a feature about making indy-tracklinks in the Armorama feature section:

https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/84

I used this to build my tracks for the DML Hornisse, and they have come out great so far (I can still ruin them with my paintjob).

Just make sure to not glue the drive sprocket too early.... because I did exactly that, I am screwed in the construction sequence. Now I will have to finish the paintjob, and most of the weathering of the tracks and lower hull, before I can continue and finish construction.

Good luck,

Harm
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