My son is into table top wargaming (40K) and I have been painting all of his troops to date, now he needs some vhehicles painted I was wondering how easy it is to use the small tins of spray paint?
Spraying seems quicker than painting the whole vehicle by hand, if I can get away with it I would rather just paint in the detail by hand. (lazy father).
Thylacine
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Using spray for the first time
Thylacine
Australia
Joined: May 09, 2003
KitMaker: 2 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: May 09, 2003
KitMaker: 2 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 14, 2004 - 02:33 PM UTC
flitzer
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: November 13, 2003
KitMaker: 2,240 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Joined: November 13, 2003
KitMaker: 2,240 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 14, 2004 - 03:05 PM UTC
Hi Thylacine
As my good airbrush is in UK, I'm forced to use cans quite often.
They are a little "on and off"...i.e. not much control in the amount of paint they will deliver but you can use height to soften the effect....spray from a greater distance away from the surface. Dust a coat lightly first to act as a key and build up light coats to stop runs, as the consistency of the paint is another thing you can't adjust with cans.
Also paint in passes of the can, starting off the piece to be painted and only release the button when you've gone past it.
For general base coats they are adequate but not too good for detailing.
If a camo pattern is pretty basic...large blobs or patches they are not too bad after masking of course.
You will probably need to do a fair bit of detail and touch up with the good old brush.
(Arthur is an expert at brush only camo schemes)
And things such as wheels, tyres and tracks are probably better masked or brush painted after the main camo is applied.
Also its a good idea to have some spare nozzles as different colours spray at slightly different thicknesses and some can clog.
In addition shake the can for alot longer than the minute it usually advises on the can. I've done up to 10/15 minutes of shaking sometimes. You can always spit a little test on to a piece of card or paper.
Hope it helps.
Cheers
Peter
:-)
As my good airbrush is in UK, I'm forced to use cans quite often.
They are a little "on and off"...i.e. not much control in the amount of paint they will deliver but you can use height to soften the effect....spray from a greater distance away from the surface. Dust a coat lightly first to act as a key and build up light coats to stop runs, as the consistency of the paint is another thing you can't adjust with cans.
Also paint in passes of the can, starting off the piece to be painted and only release the button when you've gone past it.
For general base coats they are adequate but not too good for detailing.
If a camo pattern is pretty basic...large blobs or patches they are not too bad after masking of course.
You will probably need to do a fair bit of detail and touch up with the good old brush.
(Arthur is an expert at brush only camo schemes)
And things such as wheels, tyres and tracks are probably better masked or brush painted after the main camo is applied.
Also its a good idea to have some spare nozzles as different colours spray at slightly different thicknesses and some can clog.
In addition shake the can for alot longer than the minute it usually advises on the can. I've done up to 10/15 minutes of shaking sometimes. You can always spit a little test on to a piece of card or paper.
Hope it helps.
Cheers
Peter
:-)