Hello all,
Don't know if this is old news or not, but I learned this trick from a model railroader. When you want to weather wood, to give it that old faded look, take a gallon size container of vinegar and a piece of 0000 steel wool. Break the steel wool into small pieces and stuff into the container of vinegar. Place the container outside for a couple of days until the steel wool has dissolved. Once dissolved you can brush it onto the wood and it will give it the washed out greyish look of wood that has been out in the sun for years. I have tried it on balsa and bass wood, and was very happy with the results. If you don't like it your only out about 3 dollars. Just use caution on smaller strips of wood as it is easy to warp it if you use too much at one time. Hope this helps some of you.
Best Regards,
Robert Beebe
Hosted by Darren Baker
Weathering wood
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rbeebe99
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Posted: Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 03:56 AM UTC
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slodder
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Posted: Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 05:34 AM UTC
That's a cool way to do it. Great tip, thanks.
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rbeebe99
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Posted: Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 08:21 AM UTC
Hi Scott,
No problem, glad you like it. Just shows what kind of tips we can get from different types of modellers.
Best Regards,
Robert
No problem, glad you like it. Just shows what kind of tips we can get from different types of modellers.
Best Regards,
Robert
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Posted: Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 01:50 PM UTC
Great tip...Robert
In fact I'll give it a go for my airstrip base.
I've been pondering how to treat the wooden support wall....Robert to the rescue...lol.
Thanks again.
Cheers
Peter
:-)
In fact I'll give it a go for my airstrip base.
I've been pondering how to treat the wooden support wall....Robert to the rescue...lol.
Thanks again.
Cheers
Peter
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Biggles2
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Posted: Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 04:01 PM UTC
If you observe an unpainted, weathered wooden building, you will notice that each plank has weathered to a different extant than its neighbour. When consrtucting plank-by-plank weather all your wood strips before cutting, then scub them briefly with steel wool. Cut the pieces and mix them up so that each plank you choose will be weathered differently than the one before. Model railroad magazines always have handy how-to tips on constructons techniques, tree building and scenicing. Even though this is usually for smaller scales, the information can be adapted to larger scales.
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Posted: Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 04:39 PM UTC
won't using the vinegar leave a bit of a smell on your wood ect wonder if it would work with water instead
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Posted: Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 04:59 PM UTC
This is a great tip, thanks ! I'll definately try this on my next wood project.
Thanks again !
Thanks again !
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MATTTOMLIN
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Posted: Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 05:55 PM UTC
i thught this method was for making rust. ?
or do you leave it just before it turns to rust?
matt
or do you leave it just before it turns to rust?
matt
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Sealhead
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Posted: Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 08:28 PM UTC
I would like to reinforce what Biggle 2 wrote. I just did 4000 miles around the U.S. visiting 7 national parks. I observed and photographed many old wooden buildings. The faded wood boards did not fade evenly. And not just board to board, but clearly visible streaks on a board.
I've used "Aged Wood" stain, and of course, get a uniform faded wood color. But then, I have to use washes and special brushes from Micro-mark to get the realistic un-uniform and streaky look.
Also, using the tool with the metal wires at the end and "brushing" the wood strips with it helps, too.
Sealhead
I've used "Aged Wood" stain, and of course, get a uniform faded wood color. But then, I have to use washes and special brushes from Micro-mark to get the realistic un-uniform and streaky look.
Also, using the tool with the metal wires at the end and "brushing" the wood strips with it helps, too.
Sealhead
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Posted: Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 08:33 PM UTC
Thanks for the tips guys, I'm always messing with wood so I will be giving it a try. My current method is to do a highly thinned gray ink wash then wipe excess away then washes of oils and drybrushing. maybe this will be easier. Cheers Kevin
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Art
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Posted: Sunday, August 15, 2004 - 09:09 PM UTC
Matt:
Making rust with steel wool is a little differant:
. Put just enough water (Robert's using vinegar) in the bottom of a coffee can to cover the bottom.
. Drop in the steel wool and let it soak for a few days till the water evaporates, then use the rust on the bottom of the can, either straight or mixed with paint.
Art
Making rust with steel wool is a little differant:
. Put just enough water (Robert's using vinegar) in the bottom of a coffee can to cover the bottom.
. Drop in the steel wool and let it soak for a few days till the water evaporates, then use the rust on the bottom of the can, either straight or mixed with paint.
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Art
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rbeebe99
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Posted: Monday, August 16, 2004 - 07:13 AM UTC
Quoted Text
won't using the vinegar leave a bit of a smell on your wood ect wonder if it would work with water instead
There is a small odor, but it dissipates pretty quickly. I don't think water will work, but who knows. I tried the vinegar so you get to try the water
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Best regards,
Robert
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Biggles2
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Posted: Monday, August 16, 2004 - 10:48 PM UTC
Scrubbing the wood 'planks' with steel wool, fine sandpaper, or wire brush will give the streaked, uneven weathered look . Varying the amount of pressure and time of scrubbing will also give a diferent distressed look.
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Posted: Monday, August 16, 2004 - 11:03 PM UTC
The rusting process is faster with vinegar but has the disadvantage of odor. With water it takes more time. I use this method for rusting my vehicles. Thanks for the tip. I'll try on the wood and will see
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Posted: Tuesday, August 17, 2004 - 05:56 AM UTC
Cool tips - will have to give them a try.
The way I weather wood is to distress it BEFORE I paint it - now, this is a "down & dirty" technique if I ever saw one.
Go get your dremel tool & associated kit - in it you will find a small circular wire brush attachment that dremel says will clean golf clubs and car tyres, but you've probably always been too frightened to use. Grab it now.
DON'T use the dremel - do this by hand. Holding the bit, gently run it over your wood, twisting it backwards between your fingers. Sounds difficult and painful, but its actually very easy. This leaves faint scratches in your wood. Give each plank several passes - mix them up a bit so some get more and some get less.
Once done, paint a thinned basecoat onto them, then a dark wash, highlight with the base colour, then two drybrushes in progressively lighter shades, then finally two weak washes of the dark wash.
The more distressed planks soak up more of the paint, and will look dull, faded and weather-worn compared to the others.
Another small tip - I like to include the odd plank that looks brand new on my buildings - as if someone has repaired it recently. Gives the impression of occupancy in an otherwise semi-derelict building.
The way I weather wood is to distress it BEFORE I paint it - now, this is a "down & dirty" technique if I ever saw one.
Go get your dremel tool & associated kit - in it you will find a small circular wire brush attachment that dremel says will clean golf clubs and car tyres, but you've probably always been too frightened to use. Grab it now.
DON'T use the dremel - do this by hand. Holding the bit, gently run it over your wood, twisting it backwards between your fingers. Sounds difficult and painful, but its actually very easy. This leaves faint scratches in your wood. Give each plank several passes - mix them up a bit so some get more and some get less.
Once done, paint a thinned basecoat onto them, then a dark wash, highlight with the base colour, then two drybrushes in progressively lighter shades, then finally two weak washes of the dark wash.
The more distressed planks soak up more of the paint, and will look dull, faded and weather-worn compared to the others.
Another small tip - I like to include the odd plank that looks brand new on my buildings - as if someone has repaired it recently. Gives the impression of occupancy in an otherwise semi-derelict building.
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