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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Canopy masking...what again?
flitzer
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England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: November 13, 2003
KitMaker: 2,240 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Posted: Friday, September 03, 2004 - 02:03 PM UTC
Hi...
In spite of many helpful posts on this subject I would like to run something by you...

For canopy masking I normally use Tamiya masking tape cut into tiny stips which I use to follow the edges of the glazed panels then fill in with liquid mask which is fine.
But now that I'm following the tried and trusted method of applying camo, 2 coats of fiuture, decals and the next 2 coats of future then the matt coat with pre-shading and post shading in between, the time for the masked canopy is now quite long and sometimes very long which I find can make the tape react a little, leaving residue on the glass, which is a bugger to get off.

I wondered if it would be possible to do the canopy mask as usual, attach the canopy and then just paint the canopy aera first with the camo colour and the matt coat. Then remove mask and then re apply a loose mask to protect it before continuing with the rest of the painting, weathering and decalling....??

I ask because in some circles I've read its best to remove the initial mask as early as possible, even before the paint is completely set...i.e. touch dry.

I've not tried Parafilm as I've not found it anywhere in Riyadh.

Any views and comments would be a great help...thanks.

Cheers
Peter
:-)
warlock0322
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: January 13, 2003
KitMaker: 1,036 posts
Armorama: 153 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 04, 2004 - 06:01 AM UTC
Peter:

Have you tried dipping the canopy in future before you apply the mask? Sometimes the adhesive won't stay behind after dipping it in the future.

Parafilm works well but takes alot of pratice to get it to stick( at least for me anyway).

One other thing you can look for is a product called "Foto Frisket". It looks like parafilm except that it already has a low tack adhesive on one side.

It is clear, flexable and leaves no residue behind.

I usually dip the canopy in future cut a piece to cover the entire canopy with the frisket and get it snug. The take a sharp #11 blade and cut out the frames removeing the bits of frisket as I go. As insurance to prevent bleed under I the brush a little future along the edges of the mask. Then take you time painting the plane.

I have left this stuff on the canopy for days and weeks at a time with no residue left behind at all.

The Frisket can be found in most Art & Craft stores in the paint section.

Hope this helps.

Paul
flitzer
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England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: November 13, 2003
KitMaker: 2,240 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 04, 2004 - 01:41 PM UTC
Thanks Paul,
I'll try and get some Frisket.

Thanks again
Cheers
Peter
:-)
MLD
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Vermont, United States
Joined: July 21, 2002
KitMaker: 3,569 posts
Armorama: 2,070 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 04, 2004 - 11:48 PM UTC
I'm having pretty good luck with the new Glad (plastic wrap and baggie mfg.) "Press and Seal" wrap.
I don't know if you have it over there yet, but it's essentially thinner version of the lab parafilm.
Just press into place and trim with a sharp x-acto. I've been burnishing the edges with a q-tip/ear bud and have had no bleeding under that I did not cause by airbrushing into an edge.
At US$3 or so a roll, it's WORLDS cheaper than Parafilm or Bare Metal foil and unlike BMF leaves no residue.

Mike
Augie
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British Columbia, Canada
Joined: May 13, 2003
KitMaker: 711 posts
Armorama: 157 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 05, 2004 - 03:36 AM UTC
If you can't find Parafilm in Riyadh, you could always try someone that you know who works at one of the hospitals in the city.
In the labs here in Canada, we had tons of the stuff and some always had a tendency to "fall" into my pockets at the end of my shifts. Really handy stuff that Parafilm is!!!
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