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Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Wield Seams
salt6
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Oklahoma, United States
Joined: February 17, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, August 08, 2002 - 11:12 AM UTC
Ok Guys,

What's your secret for making wield seams.

Tin_Can
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Florida, United States
Joined: January 26, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, August 08, 2002 - 12:13 PM UTC
I haven't tried simulating weld seams on the tanks I've done (perhaps next time) but just for your info, there was an article in the July issue of Fine Scale Modeler on how to create realistic weld seams.
shiryon
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New York, United States
Joined: April 26, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, August 08, 2002 - 01:53 PM UTC
There are at least two ways of making weld seams that I know of. One is you can buy PE ones in different sizes from I think Aber. The other method if to take thin strips of platicstrip and glue it in place. once glue in place soak section by section eith liquid cement to soften the plastic when soft take a small screwdriver or the back of a x-acto blade and push it into the softened plastic creating the weld seam. As I write this o remember someone using thined putty but I'm not sure.

Josh Weingarten
aKa shiryon
sgtreef
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Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, August 08, 2002 - 06:33 PM UTC
Yes two good answers. I like the plastic sprue myself after applying all that other PE need a brake from it.
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
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Posted: Thursday, August 08, 2002 - 07:34 PM UTC
I scribe a line using a blade and a straight edge metal ruler. I then stretch sprue and glue it down into the grove with liquid cement. As the liquid cement softens the spure, I use the tip of the blade to give the seam its texture. Remember, welds on modern AFVs more resemble a bead of tube glue than the "choppy" look of WW2 vehicles.
mihaip
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Romania
Joined: August 02, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, August 08, 2002 - 08:05 PM UTC
I use a microbrush and etilacetate liquid. The microbrush is like a q-tip but up to 5 times smaller and the EA solution is as fluid as alcohol and 5 times more powerful than regular cement. Ehat you get is a fine melting of the edges without lowering them (with a pin or smth sharp you can even raise it).
Iron-Fist
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Idaho, United States
Joined: August 09, 2002
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Posted: Friday, August 09, 2002 - 11:24 AM UTC
im mostly an aircraft modeller, so this probably won't work, but what if you took some testors putty(comes in tube like testors gel glue) and added one of those gluing tips to it and shot the putty in a slightly wavy motion.
mihaip
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Romania
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Posted: Friday, August 09, 2002 - 06:11 PM UTC

Quoted Text

im mostly an aircraft modeller, so this probably won't work, but what if you took some testors putty(comes in tube like testors gel glue) and added one of those gluing tips to it and shot the putty in a slightly wavy motion.



It won't look good on scale. On the other hand he weld marks were not "shooting" trails, at least not so smooth. Just imagine modelling the putty mark...
drewgimpy
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Utah, United States
Joined: January 24, 2002
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Posted: Monday, August 12, 2002 - 12:32 PM UTC

Quoted Text

there was an article in the July issue of Fine Scale Modeler on how to create realistic weld seams.



I found this arcticle very helpfull. I would try and get your hands on it, if you can't let me know and I will see if I can get you a copy. It will help a ton more than anything I could say.

I will add I had some luck with a dremel rotor tool.
Abrams101
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United States
Joined: July 18, 2002
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Posted: Monday, August 12, 2002 - 01:47 PM UTC
I use all types of methods streched spru, putty, partialy dried silver paint, but most of all I use my woodburning tool and just attack the model itself . sometimes you need a biger seam so thats when I glue down the streched sprue, then I melt the S#it out of it.
I use the same method for zimmerit. Burn everything #:-).Well salt6, Whatever you chose, good luck and godspeed. . . .I'm not waving ,I'm saluting over and over again #:-)
ARMDCAV
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Posted: Friday, August 16, 2002 - 10:56 AM UTC
Ok, welding 101. Gas, electric arc, heliarc or wire welders. Thickness of the pieces being welded. All of these will affect the look of the weld your trying to model. Welds on thin pieces such as soft skinned vehicles will be raised, penetration not being a problem and the welder can move along pretty fast. Where thick armor plates are mated a bevel is usually made to allow penetration the full depth of the weld. This take a bit longer and because of the bevel you may see that the weld is below the level of the plate or at most even with it. Aluminium (damn I think I speeled it right) requires a gas to prevent the weld metal from oxydizing too fast and causing blowouts. The gas also helps to cool the weld quickly. These welds are usualy wider than other welds and smooth rather than sharp and wavey. Heliarc and wire welders are fed from spools of wire so the welds are pretty much uniform their whole length. Stick welding requires the replacment of the welding rod periodically and this may cause variation in the width of the weld for a short lenghth after the welding resumes. Remember that a good weld requires that the adjacent material be heated to melting temprature to properly bond with the rod or wire material. In some instances a carbon arc is employed which does not melt, then it is the material of the two mating surfaces that form the weld. Why the weld looks wavey? Actually the welds or passes are horse shoe in shape. As the rod or wire melts and the stock material melts the mated material tends to runout or flow away. To prevent this and keep what your welding where you want it you have to keep the arc or torch moving. Move it too far away and the weld cools off, stay too close and the weld melts away. The horse shoe pattern allows you to stay in the weld and keep the material hot enough to begin melting when you want to start welding there. It just looks like continuous waves or circles because the trailing weld has been over passed by the next weld. This is what you want to model, the circles or arcs. A good weld will be uniform in width, height and the spacing of the arcs. A good weld between a vertical and horizontal should be coved. If not there is poor penetration.
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