1. Is Tamiya's 1/35 kit (#35042) of the M3 an early version & are the kit tracks accurate?
2. Are ARV Club's T16 tracks (AF35019) accurate for the Tamiya kit?
3. Did the U.S. have any variations of the M3 with the "Honey" turret. (I think the British had them).
4. Any suggestions for modifications, etc.?
Thanks.

It is a diesel powered variant used in training and lend lease. Tracks have the end connectors centered on the track block and not connecting two adjacent blocks. The pattern are correct but they are bad.

Those would be OK.

Yes, I believe so. It was used in the Phillipines prior to its fall to Japan.

To be a bit more precise, the Tamiya M3 is an early diesel, but is not as early a version as the octagonal slab sided turret version. There were few of the diesels made and few saw combat.


One thing with these tracks is that they really are accurate. Unfortunately the Tamiya M3 is not. You have to clip the end of the interior track connector that rides over the axle of each return roller otherwise the track will rise over the roller as the interior end connector tooth interferes with the support for the roller. Not hard to do, just don't forget it. :-)
BTW these tracks assemble really nicely after they have been painted. Some have complained that they are too loose, but painting them before assembly tightens up the joint just right.

The slab sided turret M3s were also used on Guadalcanal alongside their earlier M2A4 bretheren.


Unfortunately, the list is legion. There are a number of dimensional errors with the kit. The hull errors are mostly to do with the motorisation that originally came with the kit (it's also why the tracks have the connectors in the middle of the pad, to make them run easier as toys). The hull is too deep and the shape of the sponsons is off as well.
To my mind, though, the worst errors are the turret and turret ring. The turret is a full 1/8" too small in diameter and on something this small, that's a huge amount. The turret ring is off by the same amount. Other than scratchbuilding a new turret or swapping it with a resin one, though, there isn't anything you can do about this. The rear deck has to be changed to the gasoline version if you want to show a combat vehicle. There are a number of small changes to make to get it to look better., including using some putty to reshape the differential housing and building some mufflers to put under the rear deck overhang. If you want a more extensive list, email me off list and I'll help you out. I've built eight of these puppies over the years and I know them inside out.

Paul Roberts
Interim Vice President
AMPS

Thanks guys. A big help in getting me headed in the right direction...Tankmodeler, I sent you a message...