Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
PE, So many, Too Confusing
Chief
Washington, United States
Joined: February 07, 2002
KitMaker: 498 posts
Armorama: 193 posts
Joined: February 07, 2002
KitMaker: 498 posts
Armorama: 193 posts
Posted: Friday, August 16, 2002 - 03:55 AM UTC
Ok PE experts, I am going to pick up some PE sets for a PZ IIIJ, Tiger 1 early, and Wespe. ABER and Eduard make sets for all 3 kits, but they both look different and come with a different number of sheets. Can somebody clue me in as to which one is "better" or is it up to my preference? Aber sets seem to come with a boat load of little tiny extras where Eduard seem more basic, or is it my aging eye sight?
GunTruck
California, United States
Joined: December 01, 2001
KitMaker: 5,885 posts
Armorama: 3,799 posts
Joined: December 01, 2001
KitMaker: 5,885 posts
Armorama: 3,799 posts
Posted: Friday, August 16, 2002 - 04:00 AM UTC
I think you hit the nail on the head - Eduard sets are a little more "sane" than the Aber sets. Aber tends to go all out and give you things you didn't even know you wanted. Eduard strikes a good balance instead - though you still probably won't use a lot of the things on the photoetched fret.
Gunnie
Gunnie
shiryon
New York, United States
Joined: April 26, 2002
KitMaker: 876 posts
Armorama: 606 posts
Joined: April 26, 2002
KitMaker: 876 posts
Armorama: 606 posts
Posted: Friday, August 16, 2002 - 05:16 AM UTC
chief, while I'm not a german armour guy I reccomend looking up the instuctions for the sets you want on the Eduard web site. you'll be able to clearly see if their sets accomplish what you want to do.
Eduadrd site
Josh Weingarten
aKa shiryon
Eduadrd site
Josh Weingarten
aKa shiryon
Pieter
Louisiana, United States
Joined: August 14, 2002
KitMaker: 141 posts
Armorama: 73 posts
Joined: August 14, 2002
KitMaker: 141 posts
Armorama: 73 posts
Posted: Friday, August 16, 2002 - 05:38 AM UTC
Hey guys,
I have always used the eduard sets. it has enough tof the parts needed to detail all of the german tanks adn assult guns out there. The only thing I have against them is the instructions are a little jumpy, it has you starting out in one area then it jumps to a completely defferent area. To end the jumping around I normally read both instructions and then go back and make each one with correct position on the tank instructions. That way
it will make it a little bit easier.
I have always used the eduard sets. it has enough tof the parts needed to detail all of the german tanks adn assult guns out there. The only thing I have against them is the instructions are a little jumpy, it has you starting out in one area then it jumps to a completely defferent area. To end the jumping around I normally read both instructions and then go back and make each one with correct position on the tank instructions. That way
it will make it a little bit easier.
Chief
Washington, United States
Joined: February 07, 2002
KitMaker: 498 posts
Armorama: 193 posts
Joined: February 07, 2002
KitMaker: 498 posts
Armorama: 193 posts
Posted: Friday, August 16, 2002 - 06:55 AM UTC
As usual, you guys are a plethora of info and tips! Keep it up and thanks. It looks like I'll save myself the temptation and go with Eduard. :-)
SS-74
Vatican City
Joined: May 13, 2002
KitMaker: 3,271 posts
Armorama: 2,388 posts
Joined: May 13, 2002
KitMaker: 3,271 posts
Armorama: 2,388 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 04:22 PM UTC
Hi Chief, I never used any Eduard PE, but heard many good things about them. For me since I have easy access to the Aber ones, so far I only had used Aber PE, the Pz III J you had seens is superdetailed with Aber PE set. I found it to be enjoyable, and if you are not too picky, and don't want make things movable, they are not that difficult either. The trick is to always use wax paper to put a drop or two super glue on it, and use a pin or a wire attach to the pin vase for apply the glue. It's fun.
Have good time with the PE set, and the J, it's a good kit.
Have good time with the PE set, and the J, it's a good kit.
Posted: Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 10:58 PM UTC
If you want complicated, go with Aber; If you want simpler, go with Eduard or Part.
i personally like these three and have used them quite frequently.
Chris Pig no.1
i personally like these three and have used them quite frequently.
Chris Pig no.1
MLD
Vermont, United States
Joined: July 21, 2002
KitMaker: 3,569 posts
Armorama: 2,070 posts
Joined: July 21, 2002
KitMaker: 3,569 posts
Armorama: 2,070 posts
Posted: Monday, August 19, 2002 - 01:16 AM UTC
I agree with the other folks, Aber is good and well researched but can be psychotically over-detailed as in their working Panther travel lock bicycle style chain made up of individual links you are supposed to pin together ... yeah right.
Eduard is solid and easier than ever to build and attach. Sometimes however they want you to carve off too much of a base kit part as in the IDF Mag holders in the M113 Zelda set.
Anyone ever tried the tip I read somewhere of gluing very thin plastic sheet to the etch (off the kit) and then using the regular cement to glue the plastic to the kit?
Badly worded description, Etched part attached to plastic shim, glued to kit.. sorry.
Mike
Eduard is solid and easier than ever to build and attach. Sometimes however they want you to carve off too much of a base kit part as in the IDF Mag holders in the M113 Zelda set.
Anyone ever tried the tip I read somewhere of gluing very thin plastic sheet to the etch (off the kit) and then using the regular cement to glue the plastic to the kit?
Badly worded description, Etched part attached to plastic shim, glued to kit.. sorry.
Mike
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
Posted: Monday, August 19, 2002 - 03:17 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Anyone ever tried the tip I read somewhere of gluing very thin plastic sheet to the etch (off the kit) and then using the regular cement to glue the plastic to the kit?
Yes, I have, and it works well for larger flat surface pieces. For smaller parts, sometimes I slice a disc from a small styrene rod and attach that to the part. You can the "countersink" a mounting point using a pin drill to assist in the lining up of the part.