This is a Maquette T-60 that I'm working on. Thus far, I've applied the base coat and the first part of the winter white. I still have quite a bit of weathering to do.
As for detailing, I added a lot of rivets and a bit of styrene here and there. Wish I had my Historex punch when I started. Had to do it the hard way with a small drill bit and eraser to punch them out.
Mark Fergel
Armor/AFV
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In Progress - T-60 in Winter White
pcmodeler
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Posted: Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 09:41 AM UTC
YodaMan
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Posted: Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 10:02 AM UTC
Looks pretty good, Mark!!! :-)
Glad to see you sharing on the ArmoramA boards!
That's an interesting looking tank. What kit are you using? Am I right to assume that the dark lines are preshading?
YodaMan
PS - see, I actually remember my password over here... Maybe I'm just tired today...
Glad to see you sharing on the ArmoramA boards!
That's an interesting looking tank. What kit are you using? Am I right to assume that the dark lines are preshading?
YodaMan
PS - see, I actually remember my password over here... Maybe I'm just tired today...
pcmodeler
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Posted: Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 10:17 AM UTC
It's the Maquette T-60. I actually basecoated in a dark green followed by preshading in a lighter green. I then splotched the white on. My next step is to add chips using the basecoat. That will be followed by some more whitewash thinned heavily. I'm hoping the technique works out. If so, I may do the same thing to an older JS-II I did a few years ago.
Mark F
Mark F
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Posted: Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 10:53 AM UTC
The T-60 is one of the kits I brought with me. Mine is the RPM one with PE fenders and the like. I don't know if it is the same as your Marquette kit, but it looks good. Any problems with the kit in general?
cfbush2000
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Posted: Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 11:36 AM UTC
Very nice Mark. Welcome to Armorama.
I'm doing the Italeri M8 armored car and want to try a whitewash winter scheme. I have the basecoat of OD applied. How do you suggest applying the whitewash? Did you airbrush it?
I have been considering using a tiny piece of sponge to apply it.
I'm doing the Italeri M8 armored car and want to try a whitewash winter scheme. I have the basecoat of OD applied. How do you suggest applying the whitewash? Did you airbrush it?
I have been considering using a tiny piece of sponge to apply it.
Kencelot
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Posted: Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 08:41 PM UTC
Looking nice and sharp Mark!!! :-)
I just love winterized AFVs. Keep us posted as you progress.
I just love winterized AFVs. Keep us posted as you progress.
pcmodeler
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Posted: Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 08:53 PM UTC
The RPM and Maquette are probably the same kit. The fit is pretty good, but obviously the fenders are too thick. The detail is also pretty poor at the front and rear of the tank, so I added some additional rivets there. I also added rivet detail to the side of the turret as well as a few other places.
I kind of have a thing for Russian armor. I think it initially started out as an anti-German pastime. Seemed like everyone else was building German stuff followed by America armor.
As for the white wash, in this case, it is Tamiya flat white through an airbrush. I really don't feel it's very accurate, as the Soviet crews would have most likely brushed it on. I've read about German crews having the ability to spray winter white using a spray gun through an adapter on the tank itself, but not really sure where or what.
I do remember seeing an article where someone had used a sponge to apply their winter white, so it's certainly a method that can be used if you take care around small details. Luckily, there isn't a lot of small parts to worry about on the M8.
I kind of have a thing for Russian armor. I think it initially started out as an anti-German pastime. Seemed like everyone else was building German stuff followed by America armor.
As for the white wash, in this case, it is Tamiya flat white through an airbrush. I really don't feel it's very accurate, as the Soviet crews would have most likely brushed it on. I've read about German crews having the ability to spray winter white using a spray gun through an adapter on the tank itself, but not really sure where or what.
I do remember seeing an article where someone had used a sponge to apply their winter white, so it's certainly a method that can be used if you take care around small details. Luckily, there isn't a lot of small parts to worry about on the M8.
E23C
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 09:09 PM UTC
Your T-60 looks great! Looks like I will have to pick one up to add to my T-34's and KV1.
Thanks for posting the pics and welcome to the site. :-)
Thanks for posting the pics and welcome to the site. :-)
ArmouredSprue
South Australia, Australia
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Posted: Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 10:07 PM UTC
Welcome to Armorama and really nice model, I guess you gonna weather it a bit, just don't forget to show us the pics of the completed model.
Cheers
Cheers
sniper
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Posted: Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 10:41 PM UTC
Quoted Text
As for the white wash, in this case, it is Tamiya flat white through an airbrush. I really don't feel it's very accurate, as the Soviet crews would have most likely brushed it on. I've read about German crews having the ability to spray winter white using a spray gun through an adapter on the tank itself, but not really sure where or what.
Actually, I think using the airbrush is the best way to go. Usually when you try to show a sloppy mopped on whitewash on a small model it tends to look toy-like.
Because you are viewing the model from a scale distance of about 15 or 20 feet the brush marks would tend to blend into the vehicle anyway.
I think your kit will look great after the final weathering!
Steve
CaptainJack
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Posted: Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 10:59 PM UTC
I agree, sometimes realitycan look....Well, too realistic. A nd real reality can be frightening.
That's my two zlotys worth.
Jack Pig N°4
That's my two zlotys worth.
Jack Pig N°4
pcmodeler
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Posted: Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 11:28 PM UTC
I agree about the out of scale issue. That's why I tend not to care much for brushed on white wash. That's not to say I have seen some convincing work done using that method, but it is much harder to execute.
Sabot
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2002 - 01:45 AM UTC
Quoted Text
The RPM and Maquette are probably the same kit. The fit is pretty good, but obviously the fenders are too thick. The detail is also pretty poor at the front and rear of the tank, so I added some additional rivets there. I also added rivet detail to the side of the turret as well as a few other places.
The mention of the fat fenders threw me off, mine comes with very fine PE fenders, but then I noticed that the sprue has plastic ones as well. The RPM kit I have is nicely done and the large PE fret is 5"x5" and is very thin. It includes fenders, turret sides, stowage boxes, braces, grills, straps, wingnuts, hinges and much more. I think the PE fret is well worth the $12 I paid for the entire kit. It may be the first kit I work on while here (since I only brought a T-60, JS3, M41 and RAH-66 Comanche with me).
pcmodeler
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2002 - 02:04 AM UTC
Makes me wonder if it is the same kit with the photoetch thrown in. I bet the photoetch goes a long way in making this into a nice kit. I might have to keep my eyes open for the RPM kit as well then.
GunTruck
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2002 - 02:09 AM UTC
I'm a little late in the thread, but, WELCOME Mark and nice work so far. Interesting subject, looking forward to seeing the final result.
Gunnie
Gunnie
sniper
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2002 - 02:09 AM UTC
Quoted Text
The mention of the fat fenders threw me off, mine comes with very fine PE fenders, but then I noticed that the sprue has plastic ones as well. The RPM kit I have is nicely done and the large PE fret is 5"x5" and is very thin. It includes fenders, turret sides, stowage boxes, braces, grills, straps, wingnuts, hinges and much more. I think the PE fret is well worth the $12 I paid for the entire kit. It may be the first kit I work on while here (since I only brought a T-60, JS3, M41 and RAH-66 Comanche with me).
Too bad other manufactures don't do more of this. I know DML sometimes throws in a few etched pieces. Maybe Tamiya should take note! Then I'd be happy to pay $40 for their kits!
Steve
TreadHead
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2002 - 02:21 AM UTC
Just caught your T-60 above. Nice going so far. Can't wait to see the final result!
I too agree with the 'technical' point of the brushed on texture showing at 1/35th scale. Even so, I do brush off my white wash schemes. So I AB on the whitewash, and then brush it off to create the slight streaking and 'rinsing' that occured.
Tread.
BTW, welcome to the best armour site out there!
I too agree with the 'technical' point of the brushed on texture showing at 1/35th scale. Even so, I do brush off my white wash schemes. So I AB on the whitewash, and then brush it off to create the slight streaking and 'rinsing' that occured.
Tread.
BTW, welcome to the best armour site out there!
Folgore
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2002 - 04:53 AM UTC
Could you possibly expand on that, Tread? How do you brush it off?
Nic
Nic
TreadHead
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2002 - 06:41 AM UTC
Sure Folgore, I call it 'Painting in Reverse'. I paint the model as usual (panzer grey, tri colour camo, OD green, etc.) after this has dried properly seal it with flat enamel. Let dry. Now, AB on a new coat of white acrylic. Spray this on in a cloud pattern, moving out from each panel edge ever so slightly. At this point timing is everything. Allow the new coat of white to dry for just a couple of minutes ( 5 to7minutes should be sufficent ). At this point, take a brush and dip it in some thinner (acrylic) and start painting the model with the thinner. Remember to work in small, manageble sections. You don't want to really affect the coat of newly applied white paint yet, just soften it up a little. (if small areas of paint start coming off you haven't waited long enough for the paint to dry). Now, take a new, clean brush, (just as wide, but a little stiffer) and begin painting your model in 'reverse'. Always brush in a gentle, downward motion. Thereby imitating the natural flow of water, or 'rinsing' affect of the white wash coming off the vehicle. At this point you've created the basic white wash effect. On to weathering.
To weather the winter 'white-wash' look, you (or I should say, I) wash it twice. Or with two different base wash colours. First, the white -wash requires a blue-black oil wash. Once you have done this, including the 'pin' wash in the same colour, you then proceed the usual burnt sienna/earth brown combination wash of your choice. You can even add a third wash of grimey black in specific places. On to 'Road Colouring'
This post is getting too long....I'll stop.
Remember, this is a vehicle that has seen some major use. Don't be afraid to give it character. Just keep in mind the area of the country this AFV has been traipsing around in.
That will determine what's on the lower 3rd of the vehicle.
Tread.
Hope that answer's your question. If you'd like to hear any more of my swill, just PM me.
To weather the winter 'white-wash' look, you (or I should say, I) wash it twice. Or with two different base wash colours. First, the white -wash requires a blue-black oil wash. Once you have done this, including the 'pin' wash in the same colour, you then proceed the usual burnt sienna/earth brown combination wash of your choice. You can even add a third wash of grimey black in specific places. On to 'Road Colouring'
This post is getting too long....I'll stop.
Remember, this is a vehicle that has seen some major use. Don't be afraid to give it character. Just keep in mind the area of the country this AFV has been traipsing around in.
That will determine what's on the lower 3rd of the vehicle.
Tread.
Hope that answer's your question. If you'd like to hear any more of my swill, just PM me.
pcmodeler
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2002 - 06:56 AM UTC
This was kind of done using that method:
I applied my acrylic basecoat and let it dry for a few days. I then airbrushed on white artists watercolor thinned with windex. Then, taking a very slightly damp fan brush, I brushed the model in a downward fashion, cleaning the brush every few strokes, essentially removing the whitewash.
You can see more photos at: http://www.pcmodeler.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=My_eGallery&file=index&do=showgall&gid=146
I applied my acrylic basecoat and let it dry for a few days. I then airbrushed on white artists watercolor thinned with windex. Then, taking a very slightly damp fan brush, I brushed the model in a downward fashion, cleaning the brush every few strokes, essentially removing the whitewash.
You can see more photos at: http://www.pcmodeler.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=My_eGallery&file=index&do=showgall&gid=146
Kencelot
Florida, United States
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2002 - 06:59 AM UTC
It looks cool PCModeler, whatever that is...what the heck is it???
TreadHead
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2002 - 07:03 AM UTC
Very nice pcmodeler. I especially like the 'accumulated' affect produced on the panel edges! Very nice work indeed.
Tread.
P.S. Have yet to experiment with water colours. But I do like the results.
Question: Did you mix pastels with the water colours to acheive the 'accumlulated' look?
Tread.
P.S. Have yet to experiment with water colours. But I do like the results.
Question: Did you mix pastels with the water colours to acheive the 'accumlulated' look?
TreadHead
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2002 - 07:09 AM UTC
Hey pcmodeler, just checked out (or should I say, just 'started' checking out) your site. Man, you are a busy bee!
Love the Famo. Using the bilstein crane in conjunction with the recovery spade is excellent!
Nice paint as well. Afrika Corp?
Tread.
Love the Famo. Using the bilstein crane in conjunction with the recovery spade is excellent!
Nice paint as well. Afrika Corp?
Tread.
TreadHead
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2002 - 07:11 AM UTC
did you remember to pick up the aftermarket set of PE ignition keys as well? #:-)
Tread.
Tread.
pcmodeler
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2002 - 07:31 AM UTC
The kit is a Nitto 1/76 scale SF3D Nutrocker. They're a great bunch of kits. I believe they were originally done back in the 80's. At that time, they were already including photoetch, hoses, etc. A real multi-media kit, which is really rare for back then.
Here's a couple of other examples from the product line, in 1/35 scale.
I did these a few years ago, and my painting skills have come quite a way since then. Who knows, maybe I'll go back and redo them at some point.
More photos of each at:
http://www.pcmodeler.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=My_eGallery&file=index&do=showgall&gid=127
and
http://www.pcmodeler.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=My_eGallery&file=index&do=showgall&gid=123
Here's a couple of other examples from the product line, in 1/35 scale.
I did these a few years ago, and my painting skills have come quite a way since then. Who knows, maybe I'll go back and redo them at some point.
More photos of each at:
http://www.pcmodeler.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=My_eGallery&file=index&do=showgall&gid=127
and
http://www.pcmodeler.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=My_eGallery&file=index&do=showgall&gid=123