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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
oder of painting
Henri
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Netherlands
Joined: August 11, 2002
KitMaker: 10 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 - 03:26 AM UTC
Recently I wanted to start weathering my models. On this and other sites I fond different articles and forums. I found out that there were a lot of different things I could do to weather my model (on this moment I'm building an German panther by Tamiya item 35065). But because of all these things I got confused by the oder in witch I shoud apply the weathering effects. I made a list of all these things, please correct me if I'am wrong

1. build a compete model with tools,tracks and everything on it.
2. give the model an gloss coting
3. wash the model with an slightly darker but heavily thinned (70thin to 30paint) base colour.
4. give the model an dull coting
5. drybrush the model with an slightly lighter base colour.
6. apply faded paint
7. apply (if needed) an winter white wash
8. apply Water based Secondary camouflage
9. paint worn spot on places that are exposed to wear and tear.
9. apply rust
10. apply grime
11. apply mud
12. apply snow (if needed)
13. apply dust
14. apply oil and fuel stains

I based this order mainly on 2 articles:
- Weathering Heresies by Paul A.Owen (found under features Armor/AFV)
-Bringing Out the Details by Mike Taylor (found under fearures general modeling)

I hope I have the order correct, otherwise you may correct me.
AJLaFleche
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 - 03:37 AM UTC
I would do all the painting first, i.e., secondary camo color, white wash before doing the weathering. I'd also apply decals before any weathering or flat finishes. You want the weathering to affect everything equally.
This is the ordered I'd follow:
1. build a compete model with tools, tracks and everything on it.
2. apply Water based Secondary camouflage
3. apply (if needed) an winter white wash
4. give the model an gloss coting
5. apply decals (depending on your references, you may want to apply decals before your winter white, in which case, you’ll need to gloss before you apply decals)
6. wash the model with an slightly darker but heavily thinned (70thin to 30paint) base colour.
7. drybrush the model with an slightly lighter base colour.
8. apply faded paint
9. paint worn spot on places that are exposed to wear and tear.
10. give the model an dull coting
11. apply rust
12. apply oil and fuel stains
13. apply grime
14. apply mud
15. apply snow (if needed) (think where there are heat sources, where people would have walked, where hatches might have been opened)
16. apply dust
Henri
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Netherlands
Joined: August 11, 2002
KitMaker: 10 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 - 03:44 AM UTC
Thanks for your reply AJLaFleche, It will be very helpfull

:-)
Bribo
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Louisiana, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 205 posts
Armorama: 129 posts
Posted: Monday, August 26, 2002 - 10:44 AM UTC
Don't feel bad, Henri! It does get very confusing. I think it's best to remember all of these are suggestions, find what works for you, and go with it! And come back here often for great advice, from a great bunch of people. I know I do!
drewgimpy
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Utah, United States
Joined: January 24, 2002
KitMaker: 835 posts
Armorama: 388 posts
Posted: Monday, August 26, 2002 - 04:15 PM UTC
On my M-41 I have used a really odd order for painting, see if this makes sense to anyone.

1. Base coat of acrylic paint (od in this case) mixed with about 60% white to make sure it is much lighter than it's suppose to be.
2. Mix even more white paint in and hit some of the open surfaces on the tank.
3. Cover with OD colored oil paint. A very light coat, almost drybrushed on.
4. Coat of future.
5. Wash with almost black thinned enamel paint.
6. Decals
7. Coat of acrylic dullcoat (to seal the decals)
8. Another thin coat of oil paint, slightly different than the first one in color, carefully applying around the decals.
9. After the last coat of oils dries, mix in a very small amount of black and hit areas that wouldn't see a lot of sun or wear. Make it very light and blend it into the last layer.
10. Take the oil paint from step 8 and add a dab of white to it. Hit the open areas (in a little different pattern than was used in step 2). Make it very light and blend it well.
11. Add even more white to the oil paint from step 10 and drybrush raised lines and edges. Do this several times increasing the white on areas that are the highest or get the most wear. Also, add some scrapes and dings with this paint.
12 Wash with supper thin dirt colored dull enamel paint.

Thats it. Yes I am on drugs but the Dr. gave them to me so its legal #:-) . I have a blast doing it this way and it seems to add lots of definition to the tank. The reason I put a layer of oil down before decals is I didn't the first time I tried this method and the light OD came through to much around the decals. I have lost my digital camera but I will get some pics up of it when I complete it, in a few days. Just some minor detailing left. I do the same thing with the wheels as I go along and attach them when I am ready for the tracks.
Envar
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Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: March 07, 2002
KitMaker: 1,088 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, August 26, 2002 - 04:39 PM UTC
I´m just about to start my first real tank. What confuses me is the fact that most of the people seem to build the whole thing before painting. How is it possible to paint the model with all the detail parts attached? Doesn´t this cause excessing parts "masking" some areas, creating uneven paint finish?

Beats me.


Toni
SS-74
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Vatican City
Joined: May 13, 2002
KitMaker: 3,271 posts
Armorama: 2,388 posts
Posted: Monday, August 26, 2002 - 06:50 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I´m just about to start my first real tank. What confuses me is the fact that most of the people seem to build the whole thing before painting. How is it possible to paint the model with all the detail parts attached? Doesn´t this cause excessing parts "masking" some areas, creating uneven paint finish?

Beats me.


Toni



Hi Toni,

I am one of the build all then paint gang, the way I see it is that if my airbrush cannot get to a spot the chance is that you cannot see it. So, I wouldn't worry about spot that you cannot access, actually it's more fun for me to build first then paint, and save a lot lot of time. have fun with your first tank.
drewgimpy
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Utah, United States
Joined: January 24, 2002
KitMaker: 835 posts
Armorama: 388 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 - 02:25 PM UTC

Quoted Text

´m just about to start my first real tank. What confuses me is the fact that most of the people seem to build the whole thing before painting. How is it possible to paint the model with all the detail parts attached? Doesn´t this cause excessing parts "masking" some areas, creating uneven paint finish?



I agree this would make it harder. First I build the main body of my tank or vehicle. The tires or boogie (SP?) wheels and track are painted seperate and attached just before the final weathering. These parts are painted the same time though to make sure that paint will match when they are put on. Also any equipment that isn't the color of the tank is left off and painted weathered in its own way (like shovels, tow cables, etc.) and also put on at the last minute.

Most directions start off with putting the wheels and tracks on (at least the limited # I have done). At that point I do all the wheel work but don't attach them to the tank. This step seems to be the least fun because it is done over and over so I like to get it out of the way.
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