i have have seen many questions asked about washes. my question is this. it would seem to me that washes are applied by brushing . can is be done with an airbrush or does this put too much on at one time. also, if brushed on, i would guess that the wash has to be a different base than what the tank has been painted with so that it does not affect the paint job.

From what I have read and experienced is that changing up bases is the way to go.
I have had very good results with acrylics for the base and I use colored inks for washes. The inks are bought at any crafts store, cheep and are tinted various colors. I am happy with the results. The only trouble I have ever had was with trying to use water based paints and the water based wash too soon the blend together and I had to start again.

I don't believe you could use an airbrush to do a wash. Just doen't seem physically doable. By the time you get a thin enough wash, you'll be just spraying thinner off the model.
You should be able to use the same medium if you alow the base coat to full cure and apply the wash quickly and do not go back over it. People who use oils do these glazes, as they call them, all the time. It's safest, of course to use two different media, but as I've said before, I've never had much success with an acrylic wash.

I always use a brush to do a wash. Now, I use it to get into deep shadows and crevices so usually I want the wash to only run into those areas. I do my washes once the model is painted and I have a coat of gloss laquer on it. This not only gives a smooth surface for any decals but helps ensure that washes run smoothly into recesses panel lines by capillary action. The laquer coat allows me to use enamels for my washes as well as for my base coats and highlighting.

Greg

If you haven't tried it .....you really can't say it's not do-able.
BECAUSE IT IS VERY DO-ABLE !

Actually there is a difference/advantage and I think James Blackwell
explains it best in his quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The benefits of this method ( with an airbrush ) over a wash ( with a brush ) are the soft feathered edge around all the recesses, thorough coverage of shadow, and the certainty of instantly seeing the result (instead of anxiously waiting overnight for an oil wash to dry). There is also no risk of "tide-marks" of washes drying patchy. If any blemishes or overspray occurs, then it can be easily faded out ".

James use's an airbrushed acrylic wash for his " Post Shading " technique above, but an airbrushed enamel or oil wash work's equally well also - with excellent results.

- Yes I have tried washes with my airbrush, and I have recently done so on the wheels
and Fruil Track's of my Academy M18 Hellcat. and other models. - It really has good result's.
It actually depends on what I'm trying to achieve
with my wash, and if I will go with a brushed wash, or an airbrush wash.
It sometimes take's steady action on the airbrushes trigger, and I use a very low pressure of 2 to 5 psi, which let's me get in close in small area's, and apply the oil/enamel wash as a light mist .....and also along panel lines & specific area's of raised detail and those
surface area's which require a faded panel look.
If I'm doing a wide overall area, such as an entire hull and turret ( for example ) I'll boost up to 10 or 12 psi.
Eventually, through practice & trial and error, you will no doubt grasp a feel for this kind of wash application. The more you use it.... the more comfortable with it you get.
To this day, I always spray my washes on a scrap model first, to make sure, if I need to add more oil/enamel to the wash, or add more thinner. I usually use a 70% thinner to 30% enamel/oil ratio ( same as James ) for mixing my airbrush washes.
The "Post Shading" technique, is explained in James Blackwells' article on Missing Links.

Also enamel and oil solvent based washes can definitely be applied directly
over enamel based finishes without the use of prtotective clear coats.
And this is the only way I apply my washes 98% of the time.
If the correct time is given for the enamel finish to dry & cure ( 72hrs the least ) then you can apply an oil or enamel wash......with a solvent thinner, and not worry about your undercoats lifting or any paint krinkle.

- ralph

Ralph,
Thanks for the info. Always learning new stuff.
Al

No problemo !
Like I said if you should ever take this approach..........have
a scrap model on hand. It's does take confidence in your airbrushing skill's
and anyone can achieve good airbrush washes, with a little practice.
HAVE A GREAT WEEKEND !

- ralph