It may have been discussed already but since the site is growing so much I thought I would ask again (if in fact the question has come up). What do you prime you PE with? I am about to break some out and would like to know what works well for everyone. I have some Tamiya white primer in a spray can and some Mr. Surface 1000 also. Would either of these work? Thanks for the help.

Drewgimpy,

I use metal primer which I use a paint brush to brush on the PE parts. I know both Gunze and Tamiya have a spray can metal primer. In my opinion I will use the metal primer for the PE parts first, then use either Mr. Surfacer or Tamiya white primer for the whole body.

Andrew,

I use Floquil primer, get it at a Rail-Road Hobby shop.

Never can find the Tamiya primer, so can not comment on this.

Dave

I just shoot on any gray or white Enamel paint after washing of cause.

I have a bottle of Floquil primer, but have been using Model Master primer with a brush. Most PE is either too small to spray paint (in my opinion, paint goes on too thick) or too delicate - like engine screens. Brush painting can be accomplished before or after placing on model.

Iv'e had good luck using a "cheap" FLAT white og grey spray paint.

Matt

I am adding some metal parts to my M8. If some of you use regular spray paint as a primer,couldn't you just use the body color without primer? I never prime plastic.I know,I'm being lazy. Guess I'll try it and find out.

The Tamiya white or gray primer actually says on the bottle it's good for both plastic and metal, so I have been using it for priming, just spray a couple coat on, then you are fine.

For Gunze Surface 1000 or 500 it doesn't mention if it's good for metal too, so I am using the Gunze metal primer first, then spray on 500 or 1000.

HTH

Believe it or not.......I use regular automotive primer. You need to shop aroung to find a good brand, but when I do I buy it by the case load (12 cans). Recently that company went bottoms up so it's back to the drawing board. This is the cheapest and most eefective system I have found. The brand does not matter. You can most oftern find them in the large aurtomotive parts supply shops. They are usually in flat grey, or flat beige. I use grey for vehicles and buildings (dark) and beige for figures, desert type vehicles and buildings. This drys to a hard dead flat finish and id perfect for photo etch. The only downside is that you might have to try two or three brands before falling upon the magic potion. I'm also certain that the modelling brands such as Tamiya, and Floquil etc, are also adequate. However anything hobby related is necessarily 2 - 3 times as expensive, for my purposes-as I build over 25 models a year- I need to think about economy as well in ths case.

Jack Ripley.

As long as we're on the subject of photo etch, do you need any special tools to cut the PE parts from the 'sprue'? It seems to me that if I used my sprue cutter's, they'd go dull on PE pretty quickly.

YodaMan

I use the Tamiye fine scissors. And these have always worked, well...........Fine!

Jack

I use the Mr. Surfacer 1000 as my only primer with plastic, resin, pe, and white metal and it works great!! If you already have a can of it then don't worry about using it because it works great.

Yodaman,

I use my X-Acto knife to remove PE from the sprue. I cut the parts off on a sheet of 1 ft. square glass that I picked up at the local hardware store for $2.

HTH

Whatever you use to cut metal with, goes dull in the end. My conclusion: don't use expensive hi-tech tools for that, but more or less disposable. X-acto or cheap pliers. If there's any small piece of metal left, I remove it with a "dremel".
Jan

Oh yeah, I forgot. I also sand the "burrs" away with ordinary sand paper.

Jack