At the risk of engaging in self-flagellation, I must admit that my use of after market products can use some professional advice. For example, if I cut the engine compartment doors, place the VLS engine in the compartment then try to replace the doors there is always a noticeable gap. Despite my heroic attempts, the cut always seems to be lopsided. Can we get this going them go into how you folks bend the PE pieces?
thanks
DJ

DJ - I feel your pain.

I have a Hold and Fold - which is a machined aluminum jig that greatly enhances your ability to get even and square bends in photoetched parts. I bought mine from R&J Enterprises for $37 dollars. It is a fantastic tool.

Before getting it, I resorted to using a metal ruler as the straight-edge, trapping one part of the photoetch underneath it, and sliding a wide X-Acto knife blade under the free part, bending in the appropriate direction. This worked fine, and with a combination of flat and round needle-nose pliers, I was able to survive for a long time. The Hold and Fold works on the same concept - except it becomes an extra set of hands and rulers for you. The needle-nose pliers came from jewelers and craft stores, as they're smaller and finer than Binford Tools - Tim the Tool Man Taylor stuff - we usually buy.

Gunnie

Gunnie---I will contact R&J. Do you recall the name of the folder? Also, do you treat the PE parts prior to installing. I believe I read where someone soaked them in a solution.
thanks
DJ

You want the "Hold and Fold" - nothing else is even remotely called that, Rich and Joy will know what you're talking about.

Treating or annealing photoetch? Me, never have. I don't wash it or anything else. I've never encountered a problem with chemical residues or anything else. Not saying it's a bad idea though...

For that matter, I've never had to wash resin parts or model kits prior to painting. Again, I've never encountered residue problems other modelers mention. Must be all that drooling over virgin plastic...

Gunnie

Gunnie---many thanks. I am still putting the AFV T-16 track together. I use a thin strip of paper to measure the surface area around the road wheels then lay out the paper against the segments of blocks. Works like a champ. Do you have a copy of the latest Osprey book "Modelling Post War Models?" Interesting use of oil paints for weathering and highlighting. Rather parse on descritions but the models are nicely done---T54, Sheridan, Swedish K. I asked our secretary to scan the UAAPU photos. She should have them done shortly.
DJ

DJ - yes, I have that title too - the Sheridan looks a bit garish to my eye A good modeler's reference for modelers is MMiR's Modeler's Guide to the Sherman. If you even remotely fancy the M4 - this book is pretty cool. Great balance of modeler's efforts towards specific variants, balanced with factual information, drawings, photos, and such. Ampersand Publishing puts out modeler-friendly references.

Gunnie

Gunnie--totally agree. The guys who publish MMiR are in my debt. The Sheridan in the title book looks amazing like the Sewell one in FSM. I assume we are the only two on the net this afternoon.
DJ

Think so A lot of the regulars begin dropping in around 1:00 Pacific Time...

Gunnie

Gunnie--I contacted R&J via e mail. Joy tells me they sell the 4"Hold and Fold for $37. They also carry a 6" one for $65. I am getting the 4" one. They ship priority mail so it should be here shortly. Let you know how it works out.
thanks
DJ

I have the 4" Hold and Fold too - I like it a lot!

Gunnie

Gunnie---I sent you the diagram of the UAAPU. It is in Adobe and I hope you can open it. Let me know if you get it and the results. I studied the photos of your M3 effort. Noticed that you have Zap A Gap on the workbench. Question--how do you keep the glue from clogging? I have the wonderful product and continually try to keep the opening free flowing with dismal results.
thanks
DJ

DJ - I'm trying to open the file right now. For some reason, my internet connection here at work is awfully slow - must be Friday, it don't want to work either.

I use Zap-A-Gap quite a bit. I might be the worst person in the modeling world to give advice on using and storing it - as I'm sure I don't do what the purists recommend. When I'm not using it, I store it on the workbench with my other stuff - no brainer - just out of direct sunlight. When I'm working, I don't usually (USUALLY - but I do forget sometimes and leave it uncapped for several hours at a time) leave the bottle uncapped for long periods of time. I build on a glass desk, and I pour a little drop on the glass where I won't swipe it away, and dip into the drop with a toothpick or brass wire to apply to the model. When the drop dries, a quick swipe of a chisel-blade X-Acto removes the residue without hurting the glass and I begin again.

Every now and then, I do scrape away the inevitable "crust" from the bottle tip - cut it away with clippers - that builds up from repeated pouring. It doesn't stick to the bottle firmly anyway as you already know. I don't even try to use that fine applicator tip they give you when you buy it - it's the first item that hits the trash can.

Other modelers I know use bottle caps or the caps from some bottled water - as the glue won't stick to it. A couple of guys build dams outta putty - but I haven't been crazy enough to try this route.

Got the file downloaded - no joy here at work. I'll try to open it at home too, see if that makes a difference. At work, the program thinks the file was corrupted because it was sent as an e-mail attachment and wasn't properly encoded. Don't you love computers!

Gunnie

Gunnie--Jim posted the diagram to the M-1 file on the website. See if you can read it from the Armorama download area. It takes a while to get, but if you start with the photo gallery and stay with the M-1 photo entry points, there she will be! Can you even now get the details on the UAPPU from the file?
DJ

Found it - thanks! No, haven't been able to get details on the file attachement. I have to go through webmail to access my personal e-mail from work. Sometimes the transfer is a little buggy. I probably won't have a problem when I go home and download my e-mail directly.

Gunnie

Gunnie--trust the UAAPU came through. I have a fairly extensive library of M1 diagrams if you need any.
DJ

DJ, when cutting out parts such as hatches, access panels, etc. use the back edge of an X-Acto blade as a scriber. If at all possible, use a metal ruler as a straight edge. I have a 6" one that I picked up cheap at Sears. The one you have in the closet for aligning the brass on the dress greens/blues should also work well.

Go slowly and make steady passes until you have a groove and don't need the straight edge. Patience is a virtue when cutting through plastic, one small slip and there goes the neighborhood. Also pick up some of the X-Acto blades that are saw blades. These are almost razor thin saw blades that fit into the end of the standard X-Acto kife handle. The knife makes the cuts into the corners sharper.

As far as gaps, back the edges of the hole with strips of styrene. The panels will rest on these edges much like the real things and cover minor gaps. If your cuts are lopsided, use needle files (small set of 10 runs $11 at Model Expo or are sold separately at most hobbyshop counters) to even out the sides. Again, work slowly using your straight edge as a guide. You don't want to file off too much.

If the gaps are too big, you may be able to scratchbuild a new panel from sheet styrene, if it is a flat panel. If not, build the edges back up with styrene strips and putty.

Rob--thanks for the advice. Gunnie put me onto a Hold and Fold device for PE parts out of R&J on the West Coast. They ship Priority Mail and it should be here this week. I believe I told you that I bought the AFV Club T-16 track for the M-8 HMC. Tedious labor of love. I figured out the best why to secure the end connectors to the binoculars is to carefully position them and then apply pressure using a pair of needle nose pliers. The instructions indicate that the ridges within the drive sprockets should be filed and removed. I placed the track on the sprocket without doing this procedure and everything appears correct. Do you have any experience with T-16 track and the M-5 series vehicles?
DJ

DJ - yes, at home the download was flawless. Thank you very much!

Gunnie

DJ - I did the same as you did with your T-16 track - I didn't remove the ridges inside the Drive Sprockets, and everything went fine, no fit problems.

Gunnie

No, I saw them but wasn't sure if I would buy a new kit, rebuild my old M3 and M5, use them on my unbuilt M8 or wait to see who was coming out with the new M3/5 series light tanks. How was the Verlinden M8 HMC interior? Worth the money?

Rob--VLS interior has the usual plus and minus sheet, but in this Soldier's mind it is worth the money. I thought the detailed drivers compartment and transmission were accurate. On the minus side, crummy (as usual) instruction sheet. Nice detailed six round ready rack. Lacks a radio in the M-8 HMC add-on. The AFV track takes a while to complete. I am still working the one side. It is nicely detailed and a whole lot better than the kit vinyl tracks. Hobbynet in Japan offered the M-5 for 800 yen...that's about $6. Unfortunately, it is out of stock. On the other hand, I received a brochure from Hobbyland USA selling the Italeri LVT-A for 23.99 plus $6.95 S/H. Did you build either the Alligator or Water Buffalo? I have the Buffalo and a ton of reference material along with the VLS add-on kit. Start it someday.
DJ

That ' Hold & Fold' sounds like a good idea, (better than my present method). Does anyone have the web address?

Tread.

I used yahoo and typed in "R&J Enterprise." Located in Washington State. Called them at 360 796 3828. Ask for Joy. Let me know if you need any more details. I think this Hold and Fold will be the answer to a prayer or two.
DJ

here's the the website of R&J Products....

http://www.rjproducts.com/

it may help you find this tool.

Regards!

Barkman--many thanks for posting the website. I received the Hold and Fold based on the recommendation of Gunnie. I am thrilled by it. You get a superb effect from the clean fold it provides. I even found that if you take scrap PE and make boxes, for example, you can replicate a pretty decent ammo can. Even the not so perfect boxes have utility. I put them under the treads of a tank. Looks cool.
DJ