I haven't seen this addressed in the site yet, but I haven't hit every nook and cranny either though.

Here's a method I use when dealing with vinyl tracks.
First I wash them real good in warm water with dishwashing liquid and an old toothbrush. This gets all the mold release agents off the tracks and will help the paint stick. I place them on a cardboard sheet and hold them in place with pins to dry. Hopefully the warm water and the pinning of the tracks on the cardboard help get the bends and kits out of the vinyl.
Secondly, I spray the tracks with a spray fixative. This is a matte acrylic spray used by artists and found in the spray paint section of the local arts & craft store. This spray fixative can be replaced with an acrylic matte spray used as a base. The purpose for this is to give the paints something to “bite” into and stick to the tracks.
Next, I spray the tracks a base color. The color depends on the type of tracks and the condition of the tank the kit will be modeled in (i.e. destroyed, new, muddy, motorpool clean). Safe to say it is either flat black or gunship (dark) gray.
I allow the base coat to dry thoroughly then I start to give the tracks a wash of dark brown or dark gray, again depending on the conditions of the tank and the type of tracks (i.e. all-metal or with rubber track pads).
Once this is completed, I paint the track pads (if any). Then I start to add rust to the metal parts, sort of a semi-wash since tracks on an operational vehicle are not very rusty. At this point another flat coat is added to seal the paint. I then dry brush the metal parts metallic and the rubber parts with tan.
The results aren’t too bad

Thanks for the tip! I just finished a tank with the vinyl and sort of just fudged the paint and weathering on (after I washed them) I didnt think to take too much care in doing them only because I ordered a set of modelkastens. I do have some older tank models that I have no intentions to replace the tracks. I think I will give it a shot on one of em.

I am going to be doing my first tank (I do mostly aircraft) and have had a hard time finding any color pictures of what the tracks look like. I have seen a lot of good models that range from black and metalicr tracks in good shape to some that are so rusty that they look like they could fall off any minute. Where can I get some color photos of WWII tank tracks so I can do my Sherman correctly?

Welcome to the "good" side!


Most tanks in use do not have rusty tracks. What kind of Sherman are you building, I may have what you need.

It's a Tamiya M4A3. It has what the instructions call "duck bill" extension on the tracks. It also has a 75mm late model gun if that helps at all. thanks for the help.

I found a few good pictures of Sherman tracks. Send me your e-mail address and I'll scan and send them to you.

Rob,
Upload them to the site too if you can. Good future reference material.

What kind of tracks does the 1/16 Tiger come with anyways?

Jim

It's a page from the S/S M4 Walk Around, may be a copyright thing, I don't know. I'll upload tomorrow and let you decide.

Interestingly, the Tiger comes with pre-assembled plastic tracks, very similar to the tracks issued with their 1/25 scale Tiger and Jagdpanther.

An oldie but a goodie. This kit was top of the heap until Dragon/DML entered the scene. It still holds up well and is the basis for all of the latest Tamiya Sherman releases. Only their original motorized M4A3E8 is a different mold, the M4A3E2 "Jumbo", M4 Early Production, M4A3 105mm and M4A3 75mm all have the same basic kit.

About the only thing truly necessary is to get some sheet styrene and "blank off" the upper hull over the tracks. If you don't have sheet styrene, you can use the clear plastic blister card packaging and use super glue to glue it to the hull. You only need two strips 1/2" X 6" to do the job.

Ok, back to the first post. So are the tracks laying flat when you do all the painting or shaped with the pins how they will fit on the tank? Also are they flat or on their side? Does the paint crack when you put it on the tank? I have never done this and would like to know what I have to watch out for so I don't wreck anything.

Yes
Flat, resembling snake skins stretched out to dry
No, that's why a good quality paint needs to be applied as a base coat. It will bite into the vinyl better. Leave off the drive sprocket and idler wheel until you mount the completed tracks. By completed, I mean that they are painted and detailed/drybrushed and the tabs are heat connected already. Hope this helps you out. Scan of the track pictures are on the way.

Thats exactly what I was looking for. The pictures are a huge help. Thanks for taking the time to send the picture and explain things further.

hI GUYS!
I never problems painting vinyl tracks, and I don´t make such things, I just washe it with tap water and liquid detergent and let it aside for dry. When dry I paint it with a brown colour and start the weathering process like washes, drybrushing and pastels chalks.
HTH
Cheers!

Missed this thread...

I have always done the matte finish spray first, followed by the sprayed color. I'll then matte spray again just to really seal the paint on... at least in my mind I feel I am.

Sorry to bring up a really old topic but I ran into some problems and thought I would come back for some further instructions.




I think I know what I did wrong but want to be sure. I used testors dull coat from a spray can as my base coat and have ran into some flaking problems after painting my base color (acrylic model master in gunmetal color) and washing with oils(thined with mineral spirits). The dull coat I used is an enamel I believe, would that cause the problem? Also, would model master acrylic dull coat airbrushed on work in this case and if not what exactly should I use? (specific product or brand)

Thanks all for the continued help

The wash with mineral spirits effected the dullcoat which is an enamel, right? I try to use the opposite of my base coat for a wash, i.e. if I have an enamel base, I'll wash with acrylics thinned with windshield washer fluid or alcohol (based on brand of acrylic). If my base coat is acrylic (which I normally do) then I feel safe to wash with a petroleum based product.

Incidently, I'm finishing up a Tamiya motorized KV-1C for my son and just sprayed the tracks gunship gray with a dark tan lightly oversprayed. I'm using a No. 2 pencil to add wear to the steel road wheels, idler wheel and drive sprocket teeth and center guides on the track. I'll seal them with Testors dull coat tomorrow.

I paint my tracks the easy way...usally when everything is put together! I find that a bit easy then worrying about touching it up after you side them onto the model if you using rubber band style tracks. Only disadvange of this is that if you want a fairly clean tank it doesnt work since my techquine requires a heavy coat of dirt and mud to be appiled to it.

Scott

so I have a Hanomag with these thin Tamiya threads...so what I need to use is (acrylic paints)..I want some rust and grime and bare metal..can someone point me in the right direction...I am scared that if I do anything wrong the treads will melt away and I will be screwed!