hi all, i have read all the features and tips about casting ammo crates, etc with resin, i have practised using candle wax and plaster, and i know niether of these ways are correct i can never get the ammo crate out of the resing i always have to dig it out with my scalpal, i was wondering when i do do it with resin, how do i pull it out, and can i use the type of resin used for fibre glass repair.
any tips will help
matt
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Urgent help for casting!!!!!!!
MATTTOMLIN
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Posted: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 - 10:11 PM UTC
slodder
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Posted: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 - 11:27 PM UTC
I think that the combination of wax for the mold and plaster for the end product is best suited for larger pouring such as a stone wall, or retaining wall, or river bank.
With a small mold there isn't any wiggle room to ease the box out. The was does not have enough 'give' to it. You will almost have to pour one box, pry the MOLD OFF the PLASTER, then remake the mold. Melt the wax remold the original then pour more plaster.
You can try bathroom silicone putty as an alternative to wax. It's inexepensive and easily obtained.
The key ot any mold is to have some rubbery 'give' so that it can release the new part.
With a small mold there isn't any wiggle room to ease the box out. The was does not have enough 'give' to it. You will almost have to pour one box, pry the MOLD OFF the PLASTER, then remake the mold. Melt the wax remold the original then pour more plaster.
You can try bathroom silicone putty as an alternative to wax. It's inexepensive and easily obtained.
The key ot any mold is to have some rubbery 'give' so that it can release the new part.
Major_Goose
Kikladhes, Greece / Ελλάδα
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Posted: Thursday, January 13, 2005 - 12:09 AM UTC
Exactly !! u need flexibility on the mold so that u can handle releasing the copy. wax does not leave that space .
bowjunkie35
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Posted: Thursday, January 13, 2005 - 01:47 AM UTC
Quoted Text
and can i use the type of resin used for fibre glass repair.
any tips will help
matt
The type of resin for Fiberglass is Epoxy Resin. There are some that can be used to cast clear parts in, but they are usually brittle and the stuff gives off noxious fumes while casting, sanding, etc.
What we use for modeling and movie props is polyurethane resin.
What those guys said is true. You have to have some flexibility with the mold to pop the piece out.
ws48
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Posted: Thursday, January 13, 2005 - 02:41 AM UTC
Matt,
I made a mold using a productt called Mold Maker. It is liquid latex. The part to be duplicated is anchored to a base (I used double faced tape), The latex is then brushed on the part, allowed to dry and then additional coats applied. It usually requires 6-8 coats to get the thickness needed. Because the lates is so flexible removing casted parts is no problem and the mold is reusable. I bought Mold Builder at Michaels for about 12.00.
For an alternate casting you might want to try hot glue. Check out this site: http://users.pandora.be/ronny.noben/website/index.htm
I made a mold using a productt called Mold Maker. It is liquid latex. The part to be duplicated is anchored to a base (I used double faced tape), The latex is then brushed on the part, allowed to dry and then additional coats applied. It usually requires 6-8 coats to get the thickness needed. Because the lates is so flexible removing casted parts is no problem and the mold is reusable. I bought Mold Builder at Michaels for about 12.00.
For an alternate casting you might want to try hot glue. Check out this site: http://users.pandora.be/ronny.noben/website/index.htm
MATTTOMLIN
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Posted: Thursday, January 13, 2005 - 01:39 PM UTC
thnx guys, you have helped me heaps, i now know what your talking about. will do some experimenting over the week end
matt
matt