Hosted by Darren Baker
getting that shinny metal effect
Fuhrer
New York, United States
Joined: November 19, 2004
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Joined: November 19, 2004
KitMaker: 87 posts
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Posted: Monday, January 17, 2005 - 08:16 AM UTC
I saw a picture somewhere, where the finished model has this "shinny metal" look to it. Is there a special paint I could apply to get that effect? or there is a process where I get the shinny metal effect?
bowjunkie35
Iowa, United States
Joined: November 19, 2004
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Joined: November 19, 2004
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Posted: Monday, January 17, 2005 - 08:45 AM UTC
Do you mean like bare gunmetal?
Maybe like this?
Maybe like this?
AJLaFleche
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
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Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
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Posted: Monday, January 17, 2005 - 10:54 AM UTC
There was a guy a year or two back who did a T-34 right out of the factory into combat, no paint, no markings, other than chalked on locations for wellding parts, etc. It was featured on one of the modeling mags, MMIR, maybe. To look at it, your mind told you it should feel like cold steel.
What he did was to use graphite, pencil "lead," as a finish.
PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS NOT MY WORK.
What he did was to use graphite, pencil "lead," as a finish.
PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS NOT MY WORK.
bowjunkie35
Iowa, United States
Joined: November 19, 2004
KitMaker: 576 posts
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Joined: November 19, 2004
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Posted: Monday, January 17, 2005 - 12:12 PM UTC
*Whoop, Whoop, Whoop, Ping!* We have a winner
Alright, the secret is out! Thanks Al!! :-)
Hopefully, none of my competitors in the prop biz will see this and figure out how I get some of the finishes I do on my guns, metal or not! That is one question, when I send out painted parts, that people will ask me to match the finish, what do I do? I never tell them completely though as I have to keep some secrets, but I will share here.
I take carpenters pencils (you can use regular no. 2's but the lead is harder to extract) I place the square pencils in the vise and carefully crush the wood around the rectangular lead inside. IThe lead (it is actually graphite) usually comes out in 2 or 3 pieces but sometimes 1, it doesn't matter.
Take your exacto and start scraping the lead into a handy container. The scraping will produce a very fine dust. Eventually, the lead will break but now problem. I place the small bits on an anvil. (any hard surface will do) and crush it with a hammer by applying pressure. Don't whack it or your lead will fly everywhere! Then use a regular razor blade to chop into a fine powder. You can buy graphite dust but this way is cheaper! ( I use alot)
Now, to apply to a painted surface, I use a 1 to 2 inch wide paint brush (flat) dipped into the dust. The harder you scrub this into the surface, the more pronounced the effect. It works best on dark colors. It will turn black into a gunmetal color. To really make edges shine, use your fuinger to apply the dust and rub it in.
Once rubbed in, it is surprisingly semi-permanent. That is, it won't come off by handling the piece. However, it will wash off with water and I imagine would disappear much like pastels would if clear-coated so make application your last step.
Alright, the secret is out! Thanks Al!! :-)
Hopefully, none of my competitors in the prop biz will see this and figure out how I get some of the finishes I do on my guns, metal or not! That is one question, when I send out painted parts, that people will ask me to match the finish, what do I do? I never tell them completely though as I have to keep some secrets, but I will share here.
I take carpenters pencils (you can use regular no. 2's but the lead is harder to extract) I place the square pencils in the vise and carefully crush the wood around the rectangular lead inside. IThe lead (it is actually graphite) usually comes out in 2 or 3 pieces but sometimes 1, it doesn't matter.
Take your exacto and start scraping the lead into a handy container. The scraping will produce a very fine dust. Eventually, the lead will break but now problem. I place the small bits on an anvil. (any hard surface will do) and crush it with a hammer by applying pressure. Don't whack it or your lead will fly everywhere! Then use a regular razor blade to chop into a fine powder. You can buy graphite dust but this way is cheaper! ( I use alot)
Now, to apply to a painted surface, I use a 1 to 2 inch wide paint brush (flat) dipped into the dust. The harder you scrub this into the surface, the more pronounced the effect. It works best on dark colors. It will turn black into a gunmetal color. To really make edges shine, use your fuinger to apply the dust and rub it in.
Once rubbed in, it is surprisingly semi-permanent. That is, it won't come off by handling the piece. However, it will wash off with water and I imagine would disappear much like pastels would if clear-coated so make application your last step.
Posted: Monday, January 17, 2005 - 01:07 PM UTC
Hey thanks for sharing your tip with us. I have used graphite before but not quite like that.
I have lots of those pencils kicking around so i will have to give it a try.
I have lots of those pencils kicking around so i will have to give it a try.
Fuhrer
New York, United States
Joined: November 19, 2004
KitMaker: 87 posts
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Joined: November 19, 2004
KitMaker: 87 posts
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Posted: Monday, January 17, 2005 - 05:15 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Do you mean like bare gunmetal?
Maybe like this?
yea, that is the effect I sort of want.
here are examples of effect I would like..
as for the pencil method, I'll get it a try, but I think the picture of the t-34 is an overkill with grafite.