hi all, i know this topic was brought up not so long ago, ( does anyone have that thread) , anyway, i have the humbrol olive drab paint "86" i painted a liitle bit on my m20, and to me it doesnt look very much like and olive drab like the OD you see on kit pictures such as the m20 kits picture itself. i was wodnering, does anyone know why this is, and most importnantly, what type ( tamiya, revel, humbrol,etc) is the most accurate and satisifying.
thnx
[oops, sorry guys, wrong forum, can one of you staff members please move this thread to armour]
thnx
matt
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The most accurate OD color for USA armour
MATTTOMLIN
Australian Capital Territory, Australia
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Posted: Thursday, January 20, 2005 - 06:50 PM UTC
lestweforget
Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Thursday, January 20, 2005 - 08:30 PM UTC
Short answer, there is no "correct" colour for them.
The tanks in real life wouldve had a different shade of OD on every tank, due to weather, fading, toutch ups the crew wouldve given it, and also whatever type of OD the crew couldve got their hands on.
Cheers
The tanks in real life wouldve had a different shade of OD on every tank, due to weather, fading, toutch ups the crew wouldve given it, and also whatever type of OD the crew couldve got their hands on.
Cheers
MrRoo
Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Thursday, January 20, 2005 - 10:33 PM UTC
you mean Humbrol 66 not 86! this is what I use but I have been told that the Tamiya Olive Drab in their acrylic range is the clostest to the original.
However David is right there really is no correct shade as even different vehicle plants in the States were applying different shades of OD on new vehicles.
However David is right there really is no correct shade as even different vehicle plants in the States were applying different shades of OD on new vehicles.
MATTTOMLIN
Australian Capital Territory, Australia
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Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 12:04 AM UTC
thnx guys, i know what your saying, the same goes with german armour
thnx
also, mr roo, i did mean humbrol 86, i was under the assumtion that 86 was olive drab , but after looking in my humbrol range, you are right it is actually 66, so obviously my question has been answered here.
hehehe
matt
thnx
also, mr roo, i did mean humbrol 86, i was under the assumtion that 86 was olive drab , but after looking in my humbrol range, you are right it is actually 66, so obviously my question has been answered here.
hehehe
matt
ukgeoff
England - North East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 12:31 AM UTC
For a faded OD I've used Humbrol 155. Their 66 has always struck me as too dark for small scale models. It may well be right for full size (or post war OD, which IIRC was darker than the war time shade).
thathaway3
Michigan, United States
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Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 06:59 AM UTC
Based on my own personal experience, (before the US Army went to pattern painting), I agree that the Tamiya acrylic Olive Drab is about the best you can get.
But as has been said, weathering and other factors and the inevitable touch ups that are done over time mean that there really isn't any "right" application for a given model.
Tom
But as has been said, weathering and other factors and the inevitable touch ups that are done over time mean that there really isn't any "right" application for a given model.
Tom
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 07:03 AM UTC
I use Tamiya OD, and usualy mix a bit of Buff or Dark Yellow in to lighten it up a bit as I add more layers.
Cheers
Henk
Cheers
Henk
andy007
Wellington, New Zealand
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Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 09:30 AM UTC
Hi Matt,
I use Humbrol 155...........though if I want to darken it I add a littel Hubrol 91(black green)
I use Humbrol 155...........though if I want to darken it I add a littel Hubrol 91(black green)
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 09:37 AM UTC
I searched for older olive drab threads, as I knew I posted this in a previous thread. Might be what you are looking for!
Steve Zaloga had an article in Military Modelling Magazine some while ago (vol 32 no. 3 / 22march 2002) where he discussed olive drab paints.
1)model paint.... 2)TT-C-595/FS-595 match... 3)Suitability for models
acrylics
1)Polyscale 505370...2)lighter than wartime colour...3)OK for wartime OD
1) Modelair Vallejo 043....2) Lighter, greyer Than wartime colur...3)OK for wartime OD
1)Tamiya XF-62....2)best match for wartime colour....3)Should be lightened a bit with ochre
1)Gunze sangyo H52....2)Matches 1968 FS-595A..3)OK for wartime OD, a bit vivid
1)Model master 4728.. 2)Very light, too grey-green....3)too light
1)Model master 613...2)lighter, greyer than wartime OD..3) too grey
enamels
1)model master 1711...2)close to 1968 FS-595A....3)OK for wartime OD, a bit vivid
1)model master 2050(613)....2)lighter, greyer than wartime OD..3) too grey
1)Humbrol 155....2)lighter, greener than wartime OD..3) too green
Great article on the subject. He does state that this is his opinion and not some scientific results. I believe this explains the difference in the two shades of OD (Tamiya and Gunzye )... one was original FS and the other is 1968 FS. ?????
But what has been said above, I belive is right. Weathering does allow alot of flexibilty on the subject.
I have painted Italeri´s sherman and M32 recently from tamiya XF-62 and they are very dark. Mr. Zaloga must add quite a bit of ochre to get the green he achieves in his models.
Steve Zaloga had an article in Military Modelling Magazine some while ago (vol 32 no. 3 / 22march 2002) where he discussed olive drab paints.
1)model paint.... 2)TT-C-595/FS-595 match... 3)Suitability for models
acrylics
1)Polyscale 505370...2)lighter than wartime colour...3)OK for wartime OD
1) Modelair Vallejo 043....2) Lighter, greyer Than wartime colur...3)OK for wartime OD
1)Tamiya XF-62....2)best match for wartime colour....3)Should be lightened a bit with ochre
1)Gunze sangyo H52....2)Matches 1968 FS-595A..3)OK for wartime OD, a bit vivid
1)Model master 4728.. 2)Very light, too grey-green....3)too light
1)Model master 613...2)lighter, greyer than wartime OD..3) too grey
enamels
1)model master 1711...2)close to 1968 FS-595A....3)OK for wartime OD, a bit vivid
1)model master 2050(613)....2)lighter, greyer than wartime OD..3) too grey
1)Humbrol 155....2)lighter, greener than wartime OD..3) too green
Great article on the subject. He does state that this is his opinion and not some scientific results. I believe this explains the difference in the two shades of OD (Tamiya and Gunzye )... one was original FS and the other is 1968 FS. ?????
But what has been said above, I belive is right. Weathering does allow alot of flexibilty on the subject.
I have painted Italeri´s sherman and M32 recently from tamiya XF-62 and they are very dark. Mr. Zaloga must add quite a bit of ochre to get the green he achieves in his models.