I use Tamiya Acrylics. But there OD seems so dark, almost black. Don't understand why they made this color so dark. Testors, Humbrol etc there OD looks the way OD should.
Any suggestions on what to mix with Tamiya OD to get a more OD shade. I tried the OD as the base coat and then mixed white, but then the color came out grey!
PLEASE HELP!
Hosted by Darren Baker
Tamiya Olive Drab
braunmi
Ontario, Canada
Joined: November 04, 2004
KitMaker: 15 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: November 04, 2004
KitMaker: 15 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 08:36 AM UTC
ex-royal
Ontario, Canada
Joined: May 03, 2003
KitMaker: 1,009 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: May 03, 2003
KitMaker: 1,009 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 08:45 AM UTC
IMHO Tamiya is probably the best out of the bottle OD for ww2 vehilcles. If you want to lighten the colour use Tamiya Desert Yellow. Be careful it doesnt take much to lighten it . HTH
cheers,
Bryan
cheers,
Bryan
Gunny
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: July 13, 2004
KitMaker: 6,705 posts
Armorama: 713 posts
Joined: July 13, 2004
KitMaker: 6,705 posts
Armorama: 713 posts
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 08:51 AM UTC
Michael, I have to agree with Bryan on this, been there myself too, Bro...mix a little at a time, and like ex royal said, just a little yellow...
Gunny
Gunny
INDIA11A
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 09, 2005
KitMaker: 577 posts
Armorama: 446 posts
Joined: January 09, 2005
KitMaker: 577 posts
Armorama: 446 posts
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 09:33 AM UTC
Found the same problem with Tamiya OD being to dark. I mix in yellow, bit at a time! I have heard about using Desert sand but have not tried it. If you mix in to much Yellow it will give a very olive colour so just a bit at a time.
Doug
Doug
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 09:45 AM UTC
I use it right out of the bottle and it looks fine to me.
Since I have no first hand experience as to what it looked like in WW2 I go with whats in the bottle.
However i do like to fade it a bit after the first coat to give the model some depth.
Since I have no first hand experience as to what it looked like in WW2 I go with whats in the bottle.
However i do like to fade it a bit after the first coat to give the model some depth.
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 02:44 PM UTC
Quoted Text
But there OD seems so dark, almost black. Don't understand why they made this color so dark. Testors, Humbrol etc there OD looks the way OD should.
As the others have said, actual US OD was really dark when fresh. dust and sun weather it (dust, I suspect mostly) to the lighter shade we are used to seeing. The reason is that OD really isn't a green, pre se. It is mixed from black and yellow ocre paints. No blue at all.
Quoted Text
Any suggestions on what to mix with Tamiya OD to get a more OD shade. I tried the OD as the base coat and then mixed white, but then the color came out grey!
So you can see why adding white will get you a grey shade; it is mixing with the black in the OD. Adding yellow, whether pure yellow or a yellow ocre or sand yellow or the like will lighten the OD more naturally.
HTH
Paul
USArmy2534
Indiana, United States
Joined: January 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,716 posts
Armorama: 1,864 posts
Joined: January 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,716 posts
Armorama: 1,864 posts
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 03:19 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I use it right out of the bottle and it looks fine to me.
Since I have no first hand experience as to what it looked like in WW2 I go with whats in the bottle.
What you are using out of the bottle is not correct. During World War II and the time surrounding it, the pigments on OD varied a lot, but no where near what Tamiya provides. For reference to the relatively correct color, look at Model Masters (which is what I always use for OD). As everyone mentioned, adding a minute amount of yellow helps.
That being said, I found that the bottle color is great for showing wet OD uniforms and as a good (if not a little thick) dark base coat .
Jeff
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 04:00 PM UTC
Thanks Jeff,
I am finishing up a Chaffee right now and I will try painting it with MM OD and see how it looks compared to the Sherman I painted last week in Tamiya OD.
I just build for me so I am not overly picky about colour shades but I am game to trying something new.
I am finishing up a Chaffee right now and I will try painting it with MM OD and see how it looks compared to the Sherman I painted last week in Tamiya OD.
I just build for me so I am not overly picky about colour shades but I am game to trying something new.
ex-royal
Ontario, Canada
Joined: May 03, 2003
KitMaker: 1,009 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: May 03, 2003
KitMaker: 1,009 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 04:04 PM UTC
I suggest picking up Vol.32 No.3 March 2002 issue of Military Modelling. Steve Zaloga does a very comprehensive study of WW2 U.S OD green. He compares all the current paints on the market Acrylic and enamel and his findings are quite convincing to me. Essentially it breaks down like this
Acrylics
Poly Scale 505370 (lighter) Ok For wartime OD
Model Air 043 (lighter,greyer) Ok For wartime OD
Tamiya XF62 (Best Match for wartime OD) Should be lightend with a bit of ochre
Gunze Sanygyo (too light, too gree) Ok for wartime, a bit vivid
Model Master 4728 (Very light, too grey-green) Too light
Model Master 613 (Light, too grey) Too grey for use
Enamels
Model Master 1711 (close to 1968 Fs595A) Ok for wartime OD
MOdel Master 2050 (Light, greyer than w/t od) Too Grey
Humbrol 155 ( Light, greener than w/t OD) Too Green
These are Steven Zaloga's findings but in my experience with most of these paints I would tend to agree with him. If you can find the back issue or someone to give you a copy of the article it is well worth reading. Its worth it if you build ww2 OD vehicles.
Cheers,
Bryan
Acrylics
Poly Scale 505370 (lighter) Ok For wartime OD
Model Air 043 (lighter,greyer) Ok For wartime OD
Tamiya XF62 (Best Match for wartime OD) Should be lightend with a bit of ochre
Gunze Sanygyo (too light, too gree) Ok for wartime, a bit vivid
Model Master 4728 (Very light, too grey-green) Too light
Model Master 613 (Light, too grey) Too grey for use
Enamels
Model Master 1711 (close to 1968 Fs595A) Ok for wartime OD
MOdel Master 2050 (Light, greyer than w/t od) Too Grey
Humbrol 155 ( Light, greener than w/t OD) Too Green
These are Steven Zaloga's findings but in my experience with most of these paints I would tend to agree with him. If you can find the back issue or someone to give you a copy of the article it is well worth reading. Its worth it if you build ww2 OD vehicles.
Cheers,
Bryan
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 04:09 PM UTC
Thanks for posting that Bryan.
Very interesting! I have recently been doing alot of OD subjects.
Seems like the kind of thing that invites endless debate.
I suppose being slightly colour blind doesn't help
either. :-)
Very interesting! I have recently been doing alot of OD subjects.
Seems like the kind of thing that invites endless debate.
I suppose being slightly colour blind doesn't help
either. :-)