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Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Painting Tracks
braunmi
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: November 04, 2004
KitMaker: 15 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 08:40 AM UTC
I am new to Armor modelling. Looking for suggestions on painting tracks. I don't want to use a wash, I am looking for step by step process and what colors are used for painting and drybrushing. I like to use Tamiya Acrylics, heard you could not dry brush with them though and should use Humbrol.
Gunny
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: July 13, 2004
KitMaker: 6,705 posts
Armorama: 713 posts
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 08:46 AM UTC
Greetings, Michael...
Check out the "Features" Main page here at Armorama
under the AFV Section, there are some terrific articles..see "Make Tracks" especially...
Gunny
GSPatton
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California, United States
Joined: September 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,411 posts
Armorama: 609 posts
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 09:27 AM UTC
Mike,
Start with Tamiya's red brown in the spray can as a base coat.
Washes are not scary. Tamiya paint is an acrylic, however, they use their own thinner and alcohol only does not work.
You can dry-brush with Tamiya paint.

For WWII tracks I start with the spray red brown and allow it to dry.
I make wash of acrylic paints, burnt umber and rust and flow this over the tracks.
When all is dry I dry-brush - silver for steel tracks and don't forget those Shermans with the hard rubber track pads.

On modern - I use flat black as the base.
Wash - alcohol, sand/dirt color and little rust
Drybrush - silver for the high spots and don't forget the hard rubber track pads.
druid
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Finland
Joined: December 28, 2003
KitMaker: 211 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 09:28 AM UTC
I was facing this very situation just a week ago and I found the instructions in a sticky thread here on Armorama to be very helpful.

They are not really step-by-step and you'd better get used to the idea of using a wash (hey, why not?) but they are good instructions indeed.
russ
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Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined: May 01, 2002
KitMaker: 432 posts
Armorama: 359 posts
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 05:28 PM UTC
Hi Michael, as Frank said don't be afraid ofn washes they give very realistic finishes and are very easy.

Firsty I base coat my tracks with a black/brown/blue base coat.

I then wash with a rusty wash a number of times depending on how "old/worn" I want the tracks to look, which also depends on the theatre the tank is in and how beaten up you want it.

Lastly I high light the parts that come in contact with the ground and the running gear with a silver shade.

When the model is finished I usually use pastels and these are great for the finishing effects on tracks and running gear.


Very simple and effective

Hope this helps

Neil
Manchu34
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Missouri, United States
Joined: March 08, 2002
KitMaker: 493 posts
Armorama: 361 posts
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 07:08 PM UTC
I use a slight different method. I use Testors Model Master Enamels; the colors are Flat Black, Rust (1785), and Steel.

I initially start out with falt black as a base coat. This is due to new tracks, tanks or apcs are usually black.
Next I apply thin wash of Rust. NExt comes a drybrush of steel on the high points. LAst I go back and apply a black for all rubber componets of the tracks.
DaveCox
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: January 11, 2003
KitMaker: 4,307 posts
Armorama: 2,130 posts
Posted: Friday, January 21, 2005 - 07:24 PM UTC
I guess this is another topic where we each have our favourite methods so I'd suggest a bit of experimentation until you find your prefered style - after all we're all individuals and build differently.
My base mix is kept in a Tamiya paint jar which I top up every now and then, and consists of Tamiya red-brown, titanium and a touch of desert yellow. Over this I use a silver highlight dry-brushed on. Next I paint the rubber pads if any, and then a wash- either dark black/brown or rust depending on the vehicle, it's age and setting.
The tracks are finished with a drybrush that's the same as that used on the vehicle - I feel that this helps to tie them in and make them look as if they've been fitted for a while!
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