Finally, after 4 months of working on it, I finished my super-detailed StuG IV. The model consists of the Tamiya StuG IV with plenty of AM stuff and scratch-building.

I used:

Eduard PE Detail set
Eduard PE StuG IV Schurzen set
Modelkasten tracks
Modelkasten Pz. IV roadwheels
Tamiya Pz. IV OVE set
Moskit exhaust
Minimeca antennas
Friulmodel drive sprockets
Jordi Rubio barrel
Archer Dry Transfers

The zimmerit was done with a combination of Cavalier Generic ridged-pattern zimmerit and Tamiya Putty and Tamiya zimmerit rakes. Most of the zimmerit was done with putty, but the few really large sections were done with Cavalier zimmerit. The spare track rack was scratch-built. I painted it with Tamiya, Polly S, and Humbrol paints. I did a wash with Turpenoid and Windsor & Newton oils and did extensive dry-brushing. I also used plenty of pastel chalks and a pencil (for the tools and the worn metal of the drive sprockets and guide horns).

I think that I will do a few models mostly OOB to take a break from the super-detailing, but it was fun trying to put some lipstick on a pig instead of going the easy route and building the DML StuG IV.

There are more pictures on-line if you click on the "Adam's Attic" link below.

Very nice work. The time was well spent. I like the tracks.

Really well done. I love the mud. How were the Moskit exhausts? I've heard of them, but wasn't sure if they'd be worth it. What's your take on them?

Nic

Thanks for your compliments guys. The Moskit exhausts are really nice. They are one improvement that I will always make it the exhaust is available because it is an easy improvement and it makes a dramatic difference. They are definately true to scale and are textured beautifully. Here is a picture that shows the exhaust:

The texture was already there with the Moskit exhaust even down to the weld line that you can see running the length of the exhaust. Moskit exhausts are simply beautiful and well worth it in my opinion.

Adam--Is it possible to dent the exhausts a little, or are they too thick for that? They sure look nice.

Nic

Great work, buddy.. Now don't be shy and tell us all how you did on the Washington Armor Show 2002...

Great, just great.
Mario M.

I've never tried, but they are thin enough that it shouldn't be a problem at all to dent them it that is what you want to do. Maybe I will try to do that with my next model that uses a Moskit exhaust.




I won a gold in the Axis WWII category, but truthfully I was very surprised because I don't think that I deserved that. I anticipated a silver or bronze maybe, but certainly not gold.

Kudos... nice set. I'm about to start the same model... any tips or traps I might consider ahead of time?

NIce StuG IV Adam - share some more pics - I'm beginning to feel inspired!!!

Gunnie

I went a little overboard with the super-detailing, but the things that I would consider essentials are:

- Zimmerit is needed because the version of the vehicle that the Tamiya kit depicts (early) was built during the zimmerit months. They started making the late version StuG IV just before zimmerit usage was stopped in September 1944.
- The tracks are terrible and should be replaced with suitable DML, Modelkasten, or Friulmodel tracks.
- The wheels are the old Tamiya type with no detail on the back (that is why I replaced them with the Modelkasten ones).
- The kit doesn't include the spare track rack seen in the picture of the right hand side above although every photo I've ever encountered of a StuG IV shows this rack.
- The kit includes a tool box that is to be mounted on the rear deck, but I never came across a picture of a StuG IV with this box.
- The antenna mounts are terrible and should be replaced with the ones in the Tamiya Panzer IV OVE set. Unfortunately, the OVE set only comes with one antenna mount so I had to buy two sets because all StuG IVs mounted 2 antennas.
- The tools are pretty bad and should be replaced with the Tamiya Panzer IV OVE set ones.
- If you do PE, Eduard makes a set specifically for this vehicle and it is very nice.
- The kit contains all of the motorization holes that will need filled and there are holes under the sponsoons that also need filled.
- The machine gun shield is grossly oversized. I replaced mine with one that was built in the Eduard PE set.
- The schurzen and schurzen mounts are grossly oversized also. I replaced the mounts with the Eduard StuG IV Schurzen set. The reason that I didn't use the schurzen themselves is that my model is depicting a StuG IV of the 17th SS P.G.D. in Normandy and all known photos of that unit's StuG IVs show them sans schurzen. Most likely this is because they were either ripped off by the hedges or they were removed so that they would not be ripped off by the hedges and damage the mounts.

HTH

A Big Congratulations to you Sir Avukich! You really nail this old dog!

Very nice job Avukich! I really like the those Modelkasten tracks, and the paint job you gave her. Where's the side skirts?

Sorry for chiming in late but great job Adam. And I see what you mean about the exhaust looks good. Applying Zimmerit wow I don't know if I would trust my self with that. So an article is do hey . Again great job (:-)

Were those modelkasten a pain to use? They look good with the hollowed out guide horns

The reason that I didn't use the schurzen themselves is that my model is depicting a StuG IV of the 17th SS P.G.D. in Normandy and all known photos of that unit's StuG IVs show them sans schurzen. Most likely this is because they were either ripped off by the hedges or they were removed so that they would not be ripped off by the hedges and damage the mounts.

Thanks everyone for your compliments!

This was the first time that I used MK tracks and I must say that they were a lot easier to use than expected. The big time saver that I used was to clean all of the track links first while watching TV and then when putting the thing together I left a large piece of sprue on the guide horns and attached them to the links with ZAP fast acting super glue. After about 10 minutes I would go back and snip off the left over sprues on the guide horns and then hit the attachment point with an emory board. I found this much faster an easier than cleaning all of the guide horns before attaching them. That was much more tedious because it was hard to hold on to them, but by attaching them the are not hard to hold onto.