Got the finishing touches done tonight. I'll probably re-do these because I'm not happy with the lighting. For some strange reason the sun had gone down and I lost my light.
Tom
Hosted by Darren Baker
MP M1025 Finally Finished
thathaway3
Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
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Posted: Tuesday, February 01, 2005 - 05:18 PM UTC
Manchu34
Missouri, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, February 01, 2005 - 05:30 PM UTC
Real nice good. Only a few things that caught my eye that might make it better. Only because I spent 6 1/2 years on the M966 (TOW) Humvee.
1. In the firist photo I can see some light showing through the grill. In the real vehicle, it would have been blocked by the inner tire wheel and hte engine itself.
2. Deals with the lifting shafts for the cargo hatch. The cylinder is normally green in color and the shaft is more aluminum.
3. It might be just the lighting. But the tires seem to be a little on the glossy side. Under normal wear and tear they are more dull, flat and dirty.
1. In the firist photo I can see some light showing through the grill. In the real vehicle, it would have been blocked by the inner tire wheel and hte engine itself.
2. Deals with the lifting shafts for the cargo hatch. The cylinder is normally green in color and the shaft is more aluminum.
3. It might be just the lighting. But the tires seem to be a little on the glossy side. Under normal wear and tear they are more dull, flat and dirty.
bison126
Correze, France
Joined: June 10, 2004
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Posted: Tuesday, February 01, 2005 - 07:01 PM UTC
Hi,
I agree with Manchu for the points 2 and 3. I am not an expert for the point 1
It seems you scratchbuilt the elevating system for the Mk19. Could you show closer pics of it, it's the first I see this one on a model.
olivier
I agree with Manchu for the points 2 and 3. I am not an expert for the point 1
It seems you scratchbuilt the elevating system for the Mk19. Could you show closer pics of it, it's the first I see this one on a model.
olivier
Hwa-Rang
Kobenhavn, Denmark
Joined: June 29, 2004
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Posted: Tuesday, February 01, 2005 - 07:08 PM UTC
Very nice build. Nice weathering. The tires on the glossy side though.
MrRoo
Queensland, Australia
Joined: October 07, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, February 01, 2005 - 08:55 PM UTC
nice build I agree about the tyre color and also the light through the grill in the first pic.
thathaway3
Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 - 02:21 AM UTC
Good points. Not sure what I can do about the light through the grill. I'll have to go back and look at my photos and see if there is something in the engine compartment I've missed that would be in that area. It sure does look open doesn't it?
Good tip on the liftgate cylinder! I'll go back and fix that. I was sure the inner rod wasn't painted, as that's the moving part.
And all I did to the tires was a couple of wash coats. I'll go back and see if I can't darken them up a bit.
Just noticed that the Mark 19 wasn't set straight in the mount (it was late!) I'll try and take a close up shot of the elevating mech for you Olivier. I combined the kit "rod" with the PE from the Verlinden set, and tried to match the photos that came with it.
Tom
Good tip on the liftgate cylinder! I'll go back and fix that. I was sure the inner rod wasn't painted, as that's the moving part.
And all I did to the tires was a couple of wash coats. I'll go back and see if I can't darken them up a bit.
Just noticed that the Mark 19 wasn't set straight in the mount (it was late!) I'll try and take a close up shot of the elevating mech for you Olivier. I combined the kit "rod" with the PE from the Verlinden set, and tried to match the photos that came with it.
Tom
USArmy2534
Indiana, United States
Joined: January 28, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 - 04:18 AM UTC
I am going to plead ignorance, but what is the chute looking thing inbetween the shafts on the cargo hatch? Also how did you apply the 3-tone camo? The whole thing looks real good. Glad you could see it done.
Jeff
Jeff
Splinty2001
Michigan, United States
Joined: October 01, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 - 04:36 AM UTC
Hi Tom, I think the solution to the light through the grill problem would be to put some fine wire mesh underneath the slats. I don't know about all Hummers, but ours had a layer of it underneath there.
thathaway3
Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 - 04:51 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Tom, I think the solution to the light through the grill problem would be to put some fine wire mesh underneath the slats. I don't know about all Hummers, but ours had a layer of it underneath there.
That's a good idea, I've got some mesh that would work.
Tom
Sensei
Belgrade, Serbia & Montenegro
Joined: October 25, 2003
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Posted: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 - 04:52 AM UTC
An excellent hummer, others have said all that need to be fixed.
i can only say its a wonderfull one
i can only say its a wonderfull one
thathaway3
Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 - 05:05 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I am going to plead ignorance, but what is the chute looking thing in between the shafts on the cargo hatch? Also how did you apply the 3-tone camo? The whole thing looks real good. Glad you could see it done.
Jeff
It's supposed to be a strap. I didn't want to use the lead foil since it's not flexible enough for opening and closing, as it tends to fold in a crease rather than sag. I used a strip from some cloth bandage, but looking at the photos, it looks way too coarse.
Confession time. I REALLY intended to finally try and apply the 3 tone using masking and an air brush. After about an hour fooling around with trying to get the masking done so the patterns would line up with where they are on the vehicle, I gave up and just did the brown and black the old fashioned way, (over the base green) by hand. With the paint thin enough, and applying a spray gloss then a spray dull, followed by the wash, the edges aren't very noticeable.
Tom
USArmy2534
Indiana, United States
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Posted: Thursday, February 03, 2005 - 01:43 AM UTC
I can now see it as a strap. The cloth may end up being too thick for what you are wanting since (and I am assuming) the strap would be made of a fabric. The texture is what led me to the chute theory.
I still hand paint my models- hince the reason I do WWII and modern armor (no complex camo). I haven't studied the 3-tone very carefully but you may want to smooth out the more pointed curves. Whether or not you do, it is very convincing from a distance.
Jeff
I still hand paint my models- hince the reason I do WWII and modern armor (no complex camo). I haven't studied the 3-tone very carefully but you may want to smooth out the more pointed curves. Whether or not you do, it is very convincing from a distance.
Jeff
Manchu34
Missouri, United States
Joined: March 08, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, February 03, 2005 - 05:29 AM UTC
Quoted Text
It's supposed to be a strap. I didn't want to use the lead foil since it's not flexible enough for opening and closing, as it tends to fold in a crease rather than sag. I used a strip from some cloth bandage, but looking at the photos, it looks way too coarse.
When I built my M966, Iused a strip of paper. here's a link to the web page M966 Though the strap is a little to wide. It does render a closwer thickness.
Quoted Text
Also how did you apply the 3-tone camo?
The way I painted my 3 color camou was to use the actual drawing for the pattern. I applied each color seperately. Green first. Drew the pattern on the model. Applied "Magic mask" a liquid mask. Next came the brown. Applied Magic Mask over the brown area. Then came the black.
I would let each paint layer dry for at least 24 hours before I would aplly the mask and the new color.
thathaway3
Michigan, United States
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Posted: Thursday, February 03, 2005 - 05:30 AM UTC
Yeah, a couple of the bends are a little sharp, but looking at the walkaround photos I've got, they're probably close enough. Especially since I've got all the coating and weather down, I think it's more trouble to go back and make it "perfect".
Got the uppers on the struts painted last night (had a hinge come loose and had to re-glue which was a REAL pain since the top was now secured ) but they look MUCH better. Tires (tyres for Mr Roo!) are now dull coated and look a whole lot better.
AND, in reviewing my photos, I realize that there is an air filter inside the hood behind the top grille! I had originally decided to not do the underside of the hood (there's a pattern of stiffening "beads") because with the engine installed, you have to really thin out the hood with a grinder so it will close. (Somebody didn't do a good "package study" :-) :-) ) So I ignored the filter as well. Turns out there's plenty of clearance in the area over the radiator, so I took some mesh screening and scratch built the air filter. No more annoying light shining through!!
I'm letting everything dry and I'll re-do the photos this afternoon and re-post.
Thanks for all the great suggestions!!
Tom
Got the uppers on the struts painted last night (had a hinge come loose and had to re-glue which was a REAL pain since the top was now secured ) but they look MUCH better. Tires (tyres for Mr Roo!) are now dull coated and look a whole lot better.
AND, in reviewing my photos, I realize that there is an air filter inside the hood behind the top grille! I had originally decided to not do the underside of the hood (there's a pattern of stiffening "beads") because with the engine installed, you have to really thin out the hood with a grinder so it will close. (Somebody didn't do a good "package study" :-) :-) ) So I ignored the filter as well. Turns out there's plenty of clearance in the area over the radiator, so I took some mesh screening and scratch built the air filter. No more annoying light shining through!!
I'm letting everything dry and I'll re-do the photos this afternoon and re-post.
Thanks for all the great suggestions!!
Tom
thathaway3
Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, February 03, 2005 - 05:57 AM UTC
Quoted Text
When I built my M966, I used a strip of paper.
The way I painted my 3 color camou was to use the actual drawing for the pattern. I applied each color seperately. Green first. Drew the pattern on the model. Applied "Magic mask" a liquid mask. Next came the brown. Applied Magic Mask over the brown area. Then came the black.
I would let each paint layer dry for at least 24 hours before I would aplly the mask and the new color.
I thought about paper as well, but since the liftgate opens and closes, (and the strap has to fold quite a bit when the lift gate is closed) I was afraid I'd get a "crease" where it bends. I'm not real excited about how it looks, but with the top secured, I can't get to the lower end any longer, so I'll probably leave it.
I've never tried Magic mask, but it sounds perfect. I'm going to be doing quite a few more 3 and 4 color pattern vehicles, so I'll check that out!
Tom
straightedge
Ohio, United States
Joined: January 18, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, February 03, 2005 - 11:44 AM UTC
On that light shining through the wheel well, if you notice the walls around the engine on the model they don't have the rubber extensions like all the cars and trucks have, to keep out the mud and water from the tires.
They would also extend up and block the light from coming in around the wheel.
Kerry
They would also extend up and block the light from coming in around the wheel.
Kerry
Jacobson
Indiana, United States
Joined: February 02, 2005
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Posted: Thursday, February 03, 2005 - 11:50 AM UTC
hey jeff what county u live in Indiana??i live there