I'm fairly new to modeling, IE armour, and need some help with drybrushing please. Do you just hit the raised detail on the model or do you also hit the large broad surfaces. What about the road wheels?
Also what size brush works best in your hands. Any help would be apprciated

Hi Rookie,

You generally hit the raised details and where the crew would often walk on the Armour in real life. You can also drybrush the road wheels and the sprockets as these items would often get a working over by stones and debri. As for the brush size, try using something that has a flat tip roughly 5mm wide.. Or thereabouts

Cougar

While dry brushing is still a valuable technique (and raised to an art form by Francois Verlinden) it has really been surpased by pre and post shading with an Air Brush, and Filter/wash applications.

The reason for this is that drybrushing lightens raised surfaces, not very realistic, when its flat panels and horizontal surfaces that would be bleach more by the elements, and thus be lighter.

With all that said, it is totally upto you how you build your own kits, there is no right and wrong way.

Remember too -its easier to add more coats than to take away excess paint. Go Slow, add slow, make sure there is almost no paint on the brush.

Subtle is the key.

My favorite type brush for dry-brushing is called I believe a filbert. A little fluffier than a flat, and has rounded corners. Just what I like you use, it's what works for me.

Sticky:
Thanks for the reply. I assume you use lighter shades of the base in lieu of the dry brushing. I was confused b/c in Kessler's book, he showed drybrushing the entire model with circular strokes--I could not bring myself to try it. Thanks agian

Ciao rookie,
And remember that it takes practice. I have been trying to drybrush well for almost 30 years, and I still am horrible at it. I'm sure you will master it.
Ciao for now
Rob