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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Decals vs. Dry Transfers
thathaway3
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Michigan, United States
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Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2005 - 11:00 AM UTC
I've seen all the advice about doing gloss coats before applying decals, and I'm wondering if perhaps that's NOT the right thing to do if you're going to apply dry transfers.

The reason I'm wondering is that I coated a recent build with a gloss coat before applying the decals, and while that seemed very satisfactory for the "wet" decals, I had a horrible time trying to get the "dry transfer" type to come off the sheet and stay on the vehicle.

Was the problem with my dry transfers or is the "slick surface" that results from the gloss coat not the right thing for dry transfers? They seemed to come off much better on a rougher surface.

Any advice? I've got some builds planned in the future which are going to have to have dry transfers to get the right bumper numbers, and I sure hate to do 'em by hand.

Tom
TsunamiBomb
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Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2005 - 11:07 AM UTC
Oh ya, you definatly need to have a dull coat on when your applying dry transfers. The surface is way to slick and it wont stick to the surface. For wet transfers you want a gloss coat because it doesnt give that silvery look to the decal because there is no air underneath it. You then wash the tank er whatever and put a dull coat on. There ya go bud. Good luck!
SpiritsEye
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Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2005 - 05:40 PM UTC
what's a dry transfer??
SpiritsEye
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Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2005 - 05:41 PM UTC
what's a dry transfer??
TsunamiBomb
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Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2005 - 05:44 PM UTC
They are almost like rub on decals you dont have to put them in water. They just come off the paper if you press and rub.
Easy_Co
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Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2005 - 07:16 AM UTC
Now you tell me , I just got some Archer rub ons I had already put a gloss coat on I had all type of problems Oh well another lesson learnt.
thathaway3
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Michigan, United States
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Posted: Monday, February 28, 2005 - 03:17 AM UTC
Well, at least we know now!! :-)

For SpiritsEye: There are lots of companies that make these (Archer and Verlinden for two). Because I often wish to make a specific vehicle, I wind up using them to get the exact "bumper number" which you won't get in the regular decal sheet that comes with a kit.

They can be a bit tedious, and doing them one letter at a time is a pain because you have to keep them steady when you're rubbing them off, and have to have them lined up just right.

But if you're trying to match something specific rather than a straight Out Of the Box build, they can be great.

Tom
steve-o
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Ohio, United States
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Posted: Monday, February 28, 2005 - 04:12 AM UTC

Just as a recomendation, I have used both Dry Transfers and Decals, and I was very pleased with the licence plate decals that now come in DML kits. (especially the new 250/251 series). They are cheaper than dry transfers and went on my model with no difficulty at all!
bison126
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Correze, France
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Posted: Monday, February 28, 2005 - 07:01 AM UTC
Dry transfers appear as an easier technique because no preparation is required prior their application. But never forget that, in fact, it gives you no try again possibility if you aren't satisfied with what you did.
However the good points are: no silvering, no boring cutting of the decals, no use of water.
One limit I experienced is the unreachable areas of a kit where having the decals slipping is still possible.

Just my 2 cents
olivier
thathaway3
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Posted: Monday, February 28, 2005 - 07:07 AM UTC
One thought. Now that we're discussing this, I seem to recall reading once that one can purchase "blank" wet decal sheets and use a computer to create the appropriate font and size and color for letters and numbers, and then run this through a computer printer and create your own "wet decals".

Is anyone familiar with this or was I hallucinating.

Again.

Tom
Easy_Co
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Posted: Monday, February 28, 2005 - 07:21 AM UTC
Hi Tom Ive heard of the professional modellers doing that and i believe some site members here make their own , make a nice feature.
thathaway3
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Posted: Monday, February 28, 2005 - 08:16 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I believe some site members here make their own , make a nice feature.



Yes indeed it would. How 'bout it? Any of you done this?
BobTavis
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Posted: Monday, February 28, 2005 - 08:21 AM UTC
I make my own and it is pretty simple. You print the decals on decal paper from a color printer. Then you have to spray something like Krylon Crystal Clear on them so the ink does not wear off when you immerse in water. Applying them is exactly the same as any other decal.

Here is a website that sells the paper:

http://www.decal-paper.com
thathaway3
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Posted: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 - 08:38 AM UTC
Thanks, Bob, that's exactly what I'm looking for.

Do you know if you can create white letters? Or is that a "printer issue"? Some of the decals I'm going to want to make are the old white bumper numbers.

Tom
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 - 09:10 AM UTC
You can only print white......if your printer prints white.......
The Alps Printer was one that could print white. They also printed metalics.
I'm sure there is another one that does also, since Alps seem to have disappeared, they weren't cheap to begin with, and I'm sure who ever, if anyone took over the rights, hasn't made them cheaper. Alps used a dry ink system, not a water based ink system, as most ink jet printers.

Your other option is if you are very good in photoshop, printing up your background color (you need to have a good color eye for this) and then printing the white letters on that, since your printer will not print the white letters, and will now print the background color, you will need to print onto white decal paper.

On clear decal film, black, will be ok, but will suffer from transparent problems, depending on the backgorund color you are putting the on. (It's the transparent nature of the INK) But the lighter ones are REALLY TRANSPARENT... and will disappear on a dark background. That is why on quality decals if you look you will see them being printed onto a white ground color, and then along comes the associated registration problems. The white goes on, before the reds, yellows, and blues, which are really transparent colors.

I once did a lovely set of yellow letters for a panzer grey vehicle, even doublling the decals, they disappeared into the back ground. I also tried to make a set of red decals for a night fighter, and had the same results. If it were't for silvering you never would have know there were decals there....

:-) :-) :-)
BobTavis
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Posted: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 - 09:10 AM UTC

Quoted Text



Do you know if you can create white letters? Or is that a "printer issue"? Some of the decals I'm going to want to make are the old white bumper numbers.

Tom



You cannot print white with my Lexmark and most other ink jet printers. It would drop out white as typically printers use the white of the paper.
thathaway3
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Posted: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 - 02:29 AM UTC
That's what I was afraid of. Oh well, back to the one letter at a time on the dry transfers. UGH!

Tom
steve-o
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Posted: Thursday, March 03, 2005 - 10:03 AM UTC

Could you use the printer to make the right font/size of your letters, print them in black, then cut them out and use it as a template for easy painting? Just a thought. God Luck!!

Steve
Martinnnn
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Posted: Thursday, March 03, 2005 - 10:09 AM UTC
It's a good thing I've read this thread.....I was about to apply a gloss coat for my dry decals haha

Thanks!
MrRoo
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Posted: Thursday, March 03, 2005 - 10:14 AM UTC
there is a place here in Aussie that sells 6 color (including white) decal printers for about 630 AUD. It is a model railway site and I understand that they are a big user of custom decals for their trains.

PS> I hope, depending on funds to purchase one sometime this year.
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