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durham water putty help
NERVRECK
Georgia, United States
Joined: February 20, 2005
KitMaker: 289 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: February 20, 2005
KitMaker: 289 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, February 28, 2005 - 02:43 PM UTC
I was reading a topic here on armorama and a guy said he used durham water putty. He said it could be found in a home improvement store. And lucky me a Lowes just opened here, but everyone working there is new so they dont know anything. Can anyone just point in the right direction in which aisle i can find this putty. It would really save me time.
Red4
California, United States
Joined: April 01, 2002
KitMaker: 4,287 posts
Armorama: 1,867 posts
Joined: April 01, 2002
KitMaker: 4,287 posts
Armorama: 1,867 posts
Posted: Monday, February 28, 2005 - 02:51 PM UTC
If there is an ACE Hardware store nearby, check there. That is where I got mine. Not sure where you would find it in a Lowes. Maybe try the putty section. Good luck. "Q"
jet
Alberta, Canada
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Monday, February 28, 2005 - 02:58 PM UTC
NERVRECK
Georgia, United States
Joined: February 20, 2005
KitMaker: 289 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: February 20, 2005
KitMaker: 289 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, February 28, 2005 - 02:58 PM UTC
well Red4 there does happen to be a ace hardware in this crummy town thanx alot. does it really work good?
FiveOduece
Tennessee, United States
Joined: March 05, 2004
KitMaker: 159 posts
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Joined: March 05, 2004
KitMaker: 159 posts
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Posted: Monday, February 28, 2005 - 03:06 PM UTC
Have seen Durham Putty at lowes on the asile with calking/glue putty materials. Home Depot sells it as well.
Neill
California, United States
Joined: May 26, 2003
KitMaker: 1,255 posts
Armorama: 485 posts
Joined: May 26, 2003
KitMaker: 1,255 posts
Armorama: 485 posts
Posted: Monday, February 28, 2005 - 03:35 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Can anyone just point in the right direction in which aisle i can find this putty. It would really save me time.
Check where they have putty, drywall putty, spackle, plaster of Paris. I was just at Lowes and they carried it here in San Diego
Neill
www.johnneill.com
Red4
California, United States
Joined: April 01, 2002
KitMaker: 4,287 posts
Armorama: 1,867 posts
Joined: April 01, 2002
KitMaker: 4,287 posts
Armorama: 1,867 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 - 12:48 AM UTC
Quoted Text
well Red4 there does happen to be a ace hardware in this crummy town thanx alot. does it really work good?
Depends on what you are going to use it for. I helped my son with a school project. We built a pyramid with it. Definately dries rock hard. I would suggest using it for plasterwork on buildings or such. And as already stated, get it right the first time as it sets pretty quick. It is great for use over styrofoam as rock. It can have a pretty grainy texture which helps in this regard. Good luck. "Q"
Red4
California, United States
Joined: April 01, 2002
KitMaker: 4,287 posts
Armorama: 1,867 posts
Joined: April 01, 2002
KitMaker: 4,287 posts
Armorama: 1,867 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 - 12:49 AM UTC
Quoted Text
well Red4 there does happen to be a ace hardware in this crummy town .......
What crummy town in Georgia? "Q"
Grumpyoldman
Consigliere
Florida, United States
Joined: October 17, 2003
KitMaker: 15,338 posts
Armorama: 7,297 posts
Joined: October 17, 2003
KitMaker: 15,338 posts
Armorama: 7,297 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 - 01:01 AM UTC
I've been using Durham's Water putty since the dawn of time.
I love the stuff..... just need to learn to get use to it's cure time, if you want to do any carving for brickwork, or cobblestones.
Heck, I can't find a base the size I need for my DDD campaign, so I'll make up a simple mold box from some foam board, and pour the size I need, edge it with some cheap ass boxwood I have lying around, and sculpt the sea on it.
One great little trick, is after it is pretty well set up hard, or even while hardening, sprinkle on a little water, (I use a cheap spray bottle from the dollar store) then shake on some dry Durhams ... you'll end up with a nice rock textured base, and you can continue to do this over and over as each previous one dries until you get the effect you want.
It you put a piece of plastic wrap over it, (after it starts to firm up) you can impress your wheels, tracks etc into it, and be able to remove the vehicle afterwards, after the Durhams dries.(Before it reaches the rock hard stage) It does not stick to the plastic wrap, but being covered, it will take longer to dry/cure. If you impress too deep, you probably will run into problems though.(If it works it's way around the curved upper part of a tire, easy to take care of, .... don't impress it too deep) Any gooshed (is that a word???) up Durhams can be easliy trimmed. It trims easy, with a hobby knife dampened with a little water, if it's just hardened, but not completely cured.
Got that nice custom made, expensive, wood base, and afraid to mess it up doing the ground work? Simple, trace the top shape onto a thick piece of plastic card, cut it out to fit the top of your base, then build your ground work on the plastic card. usng several layers of durhams until you get the desired thickness. (Use the above spray technique works here also) After it cures, the plastic card will pop off cleanly, and you have a perfectly fitting ground work for that expensive custom made base, with no masking. A thin layer of 5 minute epoxy brushed on and you have a perfect fitting groundwork with out damage to the wood. Also works on high gloss polyurethune, doesn't stick well to it and will normally be able to remove it, unless there were/are deep groves, or sections of uncovered wood.
You can thin your epoxy for easy brush painting, by using some lacquer thinner, and some cheap epoxy brushes from the hardwear store.
You can tint it by adding some cheap craft acrylics, and this also seems to affect the cure time, (taking longer) and also the hardness.... (not as hard) after curing.
The 5 pound can, cost only a few dollars, and lasts a long time. I usually use a plastic spoon from Wendy's, and an old Uncle Ben's bowl for mixing. Both being plastic, clean up is simple, I let the stuff dry, and gentle flexing pops the dried stuff out, and I got a clean bowl and spoon for the next project.
I love the stuff..... just need to learn to get use to it's cure time, if you want to do any carving for brickwork, or cobblestones.
Heck, I can't find a base the size I need for my DDD campaign, so I'll make up a simple mold box from some foam board, and pour the size I need, edge it with some cheap ass boxwood I have lying around, and sculpt the sea on it.
One great little trick, is after it is pretty well set up hard, or even while hardening, sprinkle on a little water, (I use a cheap spray bottle from the dollar store) then shake on some dry Durhams ... you'll end up with a nice rock textured base, and you can continue to do this over and over as each previous one dries until you get the effect you want.
It you put a piece of plastic wrap over it, (after it starts to firm up) you can impress your wheels, tracks etc into it, and be able to remove the vehicle afterwards, after the Durhams dries.(Before it reaches the rock hard stage) It does not stick to the plastic wrap, but being covered, it will take longer to dry/cure. If you impress too deep, you probably will run into problems though.(If it works it's way around the curved upper part of a tire, easy to take care of, .... don't impress it too deep) Any gooshed (is that a word???) up Durhams can be easliy trimmed. It trims easy, with a hobby knife dampened with a little water, if it's just hardened, but not completely cured.
Got that nice custom made, expensive, wood base, and afraid to mess it up doing the ground work? Simple, trace the top shape onto a thick piece of plastic card, cut it out to fit the top of your base, then build your ground work on the plastic card. usng several layers of durhams until you get the desired thickness. (Use the above spray technique works here also) After it cures, the plastic card will pop off cleanly, and you have a perfectly fitting ground work for that expensive custom made base, with no masking. A thin layer of 5 minute epoxy brushed on and you have a perfect fitting groundwork with out damage to the wood. Also works on high gloss polyurethune, doesn't stick well to it and will normally be able to remove it, unless there were/are deep groves, or sections of uncovered wood.
You can thin your epoxy for easy brush painting, by using some lacquer thinner, and some cheap epoxy brushes from the hardwear store.
You can tint it by adding some cheap craft acrylics, and this also seems to affect the cure time, (taking longer) and also the hardness.... (not as hard) after curing.
The 5 pound can, cost only a few dollars, and lasts a long time. I usually use a plastic spoon from Wendy's, and an old Uncle Ben's bowl for mixing. Both being plastic, clean up is simple, I let the stuff dry, and gentle flexing pops the dried stuff out, and I got a clean bowl and spoon for the next project.
TreadHead
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 12, 2002
KitMaker: 5,000 posts
Armorama: 2,868 posts
Joined: January 12, 2002
KitMaker: 5,000 posts
Armorama: 2,868 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 - 02:26 AM UTC
".....Heck, I can't find a base the size I need for my DDD campaign....."
What size exactly are you looking for Dave?
Tread.
BTW, thx for the quick water putty class. I guess I'm going to have to give that a whirl....