Hello,

I am new to modeling and I'm having a hard time trying to figure what techniques to apply and when to apply them. I read some articles on this forum and elsewhere on the web about : pre shading, post shading, washes, dry brushing but when do I use them and exactly what effects should I expect from them ?

Can somebody briefly explain to me when to use the techniques mentionned above ?

I do mostly armor models.

Thanks !

FIrst, welcome.
A wash is exceptionally thinned paint, 90% thinner at least. I apply it to panel lines, at the base of rivets and other raised detail and where sharp edges meet using a veryfine brush, no larger than a size 0. I use a larger brush and more wash on grill work where I want to give the impression of there being open space behind the grill.
A wash will increase the shadow of the object by outlining it. I never use the "cover everything with a wash and wipe of the excess" method touted by the magazines. This is a great way to ruin a model.
Apply a wash after applying decals and after they have fully dried and set.
I've found oils work best, followed by enamels and lastly by acrylics.
Drybrushing is the counterpoint to a wash. In this, you'll use lighter shades of the base color to bring out highlights. Lighten the base color with an appropriate color, which may or may not be white. Experiment.
Older, thick paint is good for this. Use a wide flat brush and just dab some paint on it. Wipe the brush back and forth until almost all the paint is gone. Drag this lightly over the model. Paint will gather on the high points. Repeat with successively lighter shades.
Any paint will work well for this.
I don't pre or post shade but both of these give a cloud like effect the the paint by airbrushing relatively wide paths of paint along panel lines. It's an effect that may look artistic, but I don;t find it all that realistic, but that's MY opinion and worth exactly what you're paying for it.

The order of these actions;
1. Assemble sub assemblies
2. Prime
3. Preshade
4. Paint
5. Combine sub assemblies
6. Post shade
7. Gloss coat
8. Decals
9. Wash
10. Dry brush
11. Dull coat

Thanks for your quick answer !

I'll try drybrushing on my Kubelwagen model I just finished.

Concerning washes, if I paint my model with acrylics paints, and apply a wash with acrylic/thinner, Won't it ruin the paint ?

Should I always put a gloss coat before applying decals ? And how do I do this directly with my airbrush or do I have to mix it with acrylic thinner ?

Thanks again !

Once again welcome!

I've found that if you let the paint dry thoroughly, you won't have any problem, and I use acrylics almost exclusively. Once the paint is dry, the wash won't hurt it.

As far as the gloss coat is concerned, this was a new technique to me and I found it to be very effective, but for "wet decals". (i.e. if you are going to rub on dry transfers, don't do that on the glossy coat, they don't stick well at all!!)

I got a bottle of acrylic gloss coat, masked off the undercarriage, glass (although I don't know if that was necessary), and the interior, and used my airbrush. After the decals had thoroughly dried, I sprayed acrylic dull coat and was very pleased with the result. The key is to make sure you don't rush.

Tom

Thanks for your input Tom !

I think I'm all set, it is now time to experiment

Frank

Make sure you share your photos when you're done.

Tom

Hi,

I am like Gramdaash, new to weathering/washes. my previous projects looks like new from factory (complete with silvering).

your pointers to Gramdaash are useful, but i have some more enquiries:

For Gloss coat, will Tamiya's ones work on Gunze base coat? My supplier told me the reverse won't work, is that true?

For dull/matt coat, can i use Tamiya's one as well (believed it's called "flat base")

Cheers!

hi again,

how do i apply the dull coat? If i am using tamiya's "flat base", simply apply as per normal acrylic paint (thru air brushing, of course!)?

Cheers!

Just a note that I think is worth mentioning to head off a possible future disaster.
If you put your base coat on with enamels be very careful what you use to do your wash. “Hot” thinners, like lacquer thinner, when used to thin a wash, have a nasty habit of lifting enamel base coats for me no matter how long I let the base coat dry. Now I paint base coats exclusively with MM Acryl and do my washes with artist’s oils and a thinner than is not as “hot,” like mineral spirits or odorless paint thinner.
There is nothing worse than thinking you are almost done with a model and then watching all of the paint buckle and pretty much slide off. Trust me…

Shaun

NO! NO! NO!
It will render your model flat white.
Throw that crap away. It's meant to be mixed in with paint to make a flat paint.
, I wish they'd get rid of that or mark it much more clearly that is not to be used a finising product.

Hello AJ,

What should be used then ?
If I paint mostly acryls can I use a laquer dull coat ? Like Testors Dullcoat ?

I'm lucky I read your last post because some people I met at the hobby shop told me to put a drop of tamyia flat base mixed with thinner to do the dull coat... I would have ruin my model...

Thanks !

Gram,

I use Testors Dullcoat out of the rattle can for my matte finish. Haven't had any problems...

Shaun