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Esci M-60 Blazer
M-60-A3
Ohio, United States
Joined: June 14, 2003
KitMaker: 808 posts
Armorama: 479 posts
Joined: June 14, 2003
KitMaker: 808 posts
Armorama: 479 posts
Posted: Monday, March 07, 2005 - 01:37 PM UTC
Beans
California, United States
Joined: February 04, 2005
KitMaker: 84 posts
Armorama: 30 posts
Joined: February 04, 2005
KitMaker: 84 posts
Armorama: 30 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 - 11:04 PM UTC
Looks ok, nicely built, but I would give it a light wash to bring out the details more.
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2005 - 01:21 AM UTC
I agree with Beans, a wash would help bring out the nooks and crannies, especially around the smoke grenade boxes. I'd add some discoloration to the heater exhaust pipe as well.
On the taillights, only the left upper lens in red. I'd paint the other three flat black. Otherwise it is a good, clean build.
On the taillights, only the left upper lens in red. I'd paint the other three flat black. Otherwise it is a good, clean build.
M-60-A3
Ohio, United States
Joined: June 14, 2003
KitMaker: 808 posts
Armorama: 479 posts
Joined: June 14, 2003
KitMaker: 808 posts
Armorama: 479 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2005 - 02:15 PM UTC
Beans / Maj Rob,
Thanks for the comments. I agree, it needs someting to help bring out more detail. I hate to admit it, but I've tried washes and just don't seem to be able to get very good results.
I tried to do some "contrasting" using chalks without much sucess.
May at some point try and do something with it, but for now it'll have to set as is. Need to improve my modeling skills and get to the next level.
Thanks for taking time to post and for the guidance you've provided.
Joe
Thanks for the comments. I agree, it needs someting to help bring out more detail. I hate to admit it, but I've tried washes and just don't seem to be able to get very good results.
I tried to do some "contrasting" using chalks without much sucess.
May at some point try and do something with it, but for now it'll have to set as is. Need to improve my modeling skills and get to the next level.
Thanks for taking time to post and for the guidance you've provided.
Joe
Monte
Rhode Island, United States
Joined: December 08, 2002
KitMaker: 833 posts
Armorama: 601 posts
Joined: December 08, 2002
KitMaker: 833 posts
Armorama: 601 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2005 - 05:45 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks for the comments. I agree, it needs someting to help bring out more detail. I hate to admit it, but I've tried washes and just don't seem to be able to get very good results.
How about some dry brushing of the details to help bring them out?
Major_Goose
Kikladhes, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: September 30, 2003
KitMaker: 6,871 posts
Armorama: 2,071 posts
Joined: September 30, 2003
KitMaker: 6,871 posts
Armorama: 2,071 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2005 - 09:39 PM UTC
well i have to agree and say . Washes and drybrushing is needed, cause they perform different tasks. The model is good builded but needs some depth to show realistic. U dont have to be afraid of trying , thats the only way u can improve there.
Keep working my friend
Keep working my friend
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
Posted: Friday, March 11, 2005 - 01:08 AM UTC
Washes are probably the easiest form of weathering to learn. Just remember to make sure that your base coat is fully dry and cured. Either that or use a paint meduim that won't effect the base coat.
For example, if you painted with enamels, use acrylics for your wash or vice versa. For a sand colored vehicle, I often use a dark brown or earth brown was (burnt umber is good too).
For example, if you painted with enamels, use acrylics for your wash or vice versa. For a sand colored vehicle, I often use a dark brown or earth brown was (burnt umber is good too).
M-60-A3
Ohio, United States
Joined: June 14, 2003
KitMaker: 808 posts
Armorama: 479 posts
Joined: June 14, 2003
KitMaker: 808 posts
Armorama: 479 posts
Posted: Friday, March 11, 2005 - 10:12 AM UTC
Hi Monte, Costas, Maj Rob,
I understand what you are saying, but do you think I could get by with wash / dry brush now that I have it weathered with chalks.
I'm geting (I think) a "decent" weather job, but it's not one I'm very happy with.
Guess it just shows I have a long way to go.
Maj. Rob,
I hate coming across as an incompetent, but the couple of times I tried washes, well, let's just say I'm glad no one has seen them. If it's the easiest part of weathering, I'm doomed
Costas,
I have tried as stated above, but I'm afraid to do this one since it is so far along. I might feel different if I just had the base coat so if it didn't work I could just spray over it.
I appreciate all of you taking time to provide guidance, if there are are specific techniques (as far as applying the wash over what I have now) I would be happy to hear them.
If you think I need to start from step one ( stripping and re-paint) I'm open to suggestions.
Regards,
Joe
I understand what you are saying, but do you think I could get by with wash / dry brush now that I have it weathered with chalks.
I'm geting (I think) a "decent" weather job, but it's not one I'm very happy with.
Guess it just shows I have a long way to go.
Maj. Rob,
I hate coming across as an incompetent, but the couple of times I tried washes, well, let's just say I'm glad no one has seen them. If it's the easiest part of weathering, I'm doomed
Costas,
I have tried as stated above, but I'm afraid to do this one since it is so far along. I might feel different if I just had the base coat so if it didn't work I could just spray over it.
I appreciate all of you taking time to provide guidance, if there are are specific techniques (as far as applying the wash over what I have now) I would be happy to hear them.
If you think I need to start from step one ( stripping and re-paint) I'm open to suggestions.
Regards,
Joe
blaster76
Texas, United States
Joined: September 15, 2002
KitMaker: 8,985 posts
Armorama: 3,034 posts
Joined: September 15, 2002
KitMaker: 8,985 posts
Armorama: 3,034 posts
Posted: Friday, March 11, 2005 - 11:03 AM UTC
OK from what I've read so far...this is where I would say to go. Assuming you have an airbrush. Spray the tank down with future. This will lock in your beautiful chalk job. Let it set for a day or two. Mix up some dark brown with about a 10 to 1 ratio of paint thinner for a wash. I like to use a large brush (1/4 inch) and literally just slop the wash on lettig it run over entire model. It accumulates in the lower recesses and leaves just a bit of reside and streaking as it gets there. Give it a day or so to set then hit entire model with dull-coat
M-60-A3
Ohio, United States
Joined: June 14, 2003
KitMaker: 808 posts
Armorama: 479 posts
Joined: June 14, 2003
KitMaker: 808 posts
Armorama: 479 posts
Posted: Friday, March 11, 2005 - 12:21 PM UTC
Hey Steve.
A few questions.
I've heard that when you overspray chalks that you loose the effect of the chalk. That is, that the chalk effect all but disappears.
Does this just happen with dull coat or would the Future cause this situation as well?
Would it matter what type of paint I use? Laquers, enamels, or acrylics?
I do have an airbrush, so how much of a coat of Future would I need. A light coat? Several light coats? One heavier coat?
Would the Future need to be thinned?
Thanks,
Joe
A few questions.
I've heard that when you overspray chalks that you loose the effect of the chalk. That is, that the chalk effect all but disappears.
Does this just happen with dull coat or would the Future cause this situation as well?
Would it matter what type of paint I use? Laquers, enamels, or acrylics?
I do have an airbrush, so how much of a coat of Future would I need. A light coat? Several light coats? One heavier coat?
Would the Future need to be thinned?
Thanks,
Joe