Hi gang. Here is Dragon's T-34/85 tank I am working on. Notice where I snapped the hull machinegun off. I'm a clumsy sod for sure!

What I need to know is if the panzerfaust hole on the turret is accurate to scale?

Any comments/ helpful hints are appreciated.

To me it looks great Tapper! Nice weathering/dusting.
And the Panzerfaust hit looks cool and on scale as far as I know...The later models were big ass bombs man! I think they could easily do that sort of damage.
But, I never tried it myself..
Cool build! Good picture quality too!

Frans

Hey Paul,
If memory serves even the larger warhead of the later Panzerfausts made a fairly small hole. Something on the order of an inch to an inch and a half (25 to 35mm). I know there's data on this out there, let me check and see if I can find a real number for you.
Also, given the size of these warheads I think you could expect to see more damage to things like the paint and the thinner sheet metal of the saw, horn, headlamp, and tool box.

Mark

Hi,
Great job. I really like the weathering effects on your model. Looks real. I like all the little wear points you added in high traffic areas. Not over done. And the hit looks in good scale. Great job so far.

Take care, Sgirty

Thanks guys!

I was afraid I made the hole too big. I had no idea a panzerfaust made such a small hole, considering how much the Allies dreaded that weapon.

I'll have to upgrade to a 75mm or maybe an 88mm.

Thanks again!

Cheers!

The panzerfaust had a charge that penetreated the armor just enough to send its hot shrapnel and explosives inside of the tank, that is what made it so dangerous. That is also why you would see allied tanks with cages on some parts, the cages would make the charge detonate simply raining shrapnel off of the armor, causing no damage

oh and by the way, I really like your model, the weathering is really good.

the weathering is great, iam suprised panerfaust knocked little holes, i thought they made biggers ones... always good to know

Frank

I watched a show on the discovery channel on Arnhem a few months ago. They actually shot a panzerfaust at a tank. I cant remember how big the hole was specifically, but I remember being surprised on how small it was. I think MCR is correct on all of his data. BTW great build!

A hollow charge round ( such as the panzerfaust, bazooka, PIAT ) explodes on impact, and sends a blast or jet of hot gas forward. This basicaly melts the armour in front of it, thereby 'pushing' a stream of molten metal into the confinded space of the tank. As you can imagine this will devastate the inside of a small space as is a tank. The difference with a kinetic round (such as a SABOT) is that a SABOT uses its speed (momentum) to slam into/through the armour, thereby breaking the structure of the armour and sending shards (splinters)of metal around the confines of the vehicle.
Hence a hollow charge will create/leave a small, relativly smooth hole, whereas the kinetic round might not actualy penetrate but still kills the crew. This is also the reason why hollow charge rounds are effective from a short distance, and kinetic ones are not.
Hence the reason why Panzerfaust where so feared by the Allied crews in the later stages of the war.

Cheers
Henk

Ohh, and before I forget, the finish of your Tank is exemplary, that texture has been brought out perfectly.

Henk

How did you paint your T-34? Did you preshade, etc? I am curious because the finish is very convincing.

Sean

As an EX-Anti-Armour gunner (106 RCL) and holes created by a heat type warhead is quite small (M72 = quarter size). Any type of penetrating hit, be it an AP or HEAT round will product large amounts of heat (pull a nail out of a 2X4 and touch it- friction) so the area around the penetration will be discoloured and will have "spalling" (whichyou did a very nice job of) around it (fancy name for the metal that is displaced that does not go into the veh). A burnt/silver metal for a recent hit or orangy rust colour for an older hit with the actual hole blackened should do the trick.

Very cool, looks very convincing to me!

You've got an overall photo of your tank too?

Martin

Sean, no pre or post shading at all. I painted it with a mixture of Delta Ceramcoat Dark Foliage Green and Seminole Green. I then gave it a wash in black oil and let to dry. When that was done I drybrushed the entire model with a lighter shade of the two greens to bring out the surface. It was then sealed and given a wash of raw umber.

Martinn, I'll post some more pics tonight.

Here you go Martinn! When I applied my final coat of flat varnish, it COMPLETELY destroyed all the weathering I had done. So I had to do it ALL over again from scratch!

Wow. That is simply superb. Makes me want to go out and grab some soviet WWII armor. Good job.
Ryan

excellent work man

i wont discuss the damage enough said by now.

but i will suggest one thing with your hull MG,

REPLACE IT, it ruins a perfectly done model, what you can do is use a medical needle to replace the MG, cut a piece, drill a hole and glue it.

Here is an example


cheers

Sensei, thats a GREAT idea! I'll give it a try.

Great work Paul, thanks for the pics

I'm sure you have diorama ideas for this tank....or am I wrong here? .........................

Martinnn, I have some diorama ideas in my head but I just cant get the entire picture put together. I'd like to find some taller grass and start from there, perhaps blend a field scene with the suburbs of a German city. So many idea for what to use to make grass that I'm kind of overwhelmed!