What paint color should I use for a washe on a kubelwagen painted in dark yellow ?
Dark brown ? or black ? And where should I put the wash to make it realistic ? I'm just wondering on the effect I should be looking for while doing it.
thanks
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
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Washes
Gramdaash
Quebec, Canada
Joined: February 08, 2005
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Joined: February 08, 2005
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Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2005 - 01:17 AM UTC
procrazzy
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: November 28, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2005 - 02:27 AM UTC
Try thinned tamiya smoke. it worksed well for me when dooing wheel wells (for airplanes).
cheers
Philip
cheers
Philip
AJLaFleche
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
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Joined: May 05, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2005 - 03:24 AM UTC
I'd suggest a brown, either oil or acrylic.
Mix about 90% thinner with some burnt umber paint. Using a small brush, dab it anywhere there's a shrp edge or raised detail. When you do this, capillary actio will draw the paint along the edges essentially outlining thing. Also, dab a bit in any panel line, like the edges of doors. You can use a bit more in the grill work to give it more depth.
Despite what the amgazines are saying, don't put it all over the model, expectint to wipe up the excess. Given the amount of volatile maertal, this will dry very fast. Secondly, you always risk contaminating the base color and lastly, if the base color is not completely cured, you risk softening the paint and ruining the finish.
Mix about 90% thinner with some burnt umber paint. Using a small brush, dab it anywhere there's a shrp edge or raised detail. When you do this, capillary actio will draw the paint along the edges essentially outlining thing. Also, dab a bit in any panel line, like the edges of doors. You can use a bit more in the grill work to give it more depth.
Despite what the amgazines are saying, don't put it all over the model, expectint to wipe up the excess. Given the amount of volatile maertal, this will dry very fast. Secondly, you always risk contaminating the base color and lastly, if the base color is not completely cured, you risk softening the paint and ruining the finish.
Gramdaash
Quebec, Canada
Joined: February 08, 2005
KitMaker: 66 posts
Armorama: 58 posts
Joined: February 08, 2005
KitMaker: 66 posts
Armorama: 58 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2005 - 03:53 AM UTC
Thanks Aj ! As usual you come up with great answers for me !
Another question : If I painted the base in acrylics, can I still use thinned acrylic paint ? Won't it ruin the base coat ? Or could I use enamels instead of oils ?
Ok if I understand the wash technique well, once done it should only add shadow and depth to the model nothing more.
When I look at a model and I see different shade of color on a tank turret for example, is it the work of a wash ?
Thanks again !
Another question : If I painted the base in acrylics, can I still use thinned acrylic paint ? Won't it ruin the base coat ? Or could I use enamels instead of oils ?
Ok if I understand the wash technique well, once done it should only add shadow and depth to the model nothing more.
When I look at a model and I see different shade of color on a tank turret for example, is it the work of a wash ?
Thanks again !
AJLaFleche
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2005 - 04:24 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Another question : If I painted the base in acrylics, can I still use thinned acrylic paint ? Won't it ruin the base coat ? Or could I use enamels instead of oils ?
As long as the paint is fully dry, you can use either. I've found, however, that oils and enamels, because of their finer pigment tend to work better. THe surface tension of water is alos such that it will tend to make drops, rather than flow unless ypu add windex or rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol to the mix. Simpler is better, IMHO.
Quoted Text
Ok if I understand the wash technique well, once done it should only add shadow and depth to the model nothing more.
That is correct.
Quoted Text
When I look at a model and I see different shade of color on a tank turret for example, is it the work of a wash ?
I'd have to see an example to say for sure, but you might be seeing the effects of lighting in the photograh, or drybrushing done after a wash or weathering done with either an airbrush to lighten the upper surfaces or with pastels to give a dusty apearance, but the wash should only be visible around bolt heads, at the base of handles, serial number, where two flat planes meet, in panel lines, etc..
Gramdaash
Quebec, Canada
Joined: February 08, 2005
KitMaker: 66 posts
Armorama: 58 posts
Joined: February 08, 2005
KitMaker: 66 posts
Armorama: 58 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2005 - 05:55 AM UTC
Hi again Aj,
I'm talking about the pictures in the wash FAQ.
Here's the link :
http://www.ww2modelmaker.com/modelpages/DDwash.htm
I look at the tank, and I just cannot figure what is the wash and what's not.
I'm talking about the pictures in the wash FAQ.
Here's the link :
http://www.ww2modelmaker.com/modelpages/DDwash.htm
I look at the tank, and I just cannot figure what is the wash and what's not.
AJLaFleche
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Joined: May 05, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2005 - 07:19 AM UTC
In the first picture of the Daimler, you can see some subtle wash application around most of the bolt heads and lugnuts, in the panel line around the top of the turret and the hinges on the access panel on the front of the vehicle. He did this well enough to actually make it look like a shadow. The rest of the color variation looks to have been airbrushed, to give the effect of faded paint. Also, if you look closely at the hubs, they consist of three concentric circles. The outlining of these was the result of a wash. The whole wheel appears to have been drybrushed with light gray which gave some highlights and blended the edge of the wash with the main color of the wheel.