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Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Panzer IV "where to go"
043
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Noord-Brabant, Netherlands
Joined: February 18, 2005
KitMaker: 1,242 posts
Armorama: 286 posts
Posted: Friday, March 11, 2005 - 08:35 AM UTC
This panzer IV , placed on a dio base from mirage, has lost his way in the east .
The model is
based on academy's kit and fits very well.
Watch the exhaust of the panzer it's real rust, made with Modern Options INC "instant rust".
Tell me what you think about it!






Martinnnn
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Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 5,435 posts
Armorama: 2,762 posts
Posted: Friday, March 11, 2005 - 09:22 AM UTC
Hi mate,

Nice work! Your camouflage painting looks good, you've got the skills for working with an airbrush. Decals also look good. You've got a good start! But, I do have some things you could think about on your next project to improve yourself:

- The rust on the exhaust looks great. Use it on the tracks too! They get rusty in those winter conditions. Also use a little bit of it on the tank itself. Damaged spots where bare metal is exposed will get rusty!

- It is likely that the tank would have received white winter camouflage...in any way! By paint, chalk, or whatever that is white!

- Mud on the wheels, tracks, and the lower part of the hull would make the tank look more used.

- It looks like you haven't applied a wash or any form of weathering. If you did, give it a few more washes. If you didn't, this is how to do a wash:

Get yourself some good oil paints (a dark brown colour is the best in my opinion), and turpetine (terpetine). Now mix the oil paint with the turpetine. About 2 paint on 8 turpetine. Use a large round brush and apply the mix on your model. You'll see the oil paint flows in holes etc of your model, giving it more depth. Make sure you've got some clean turpetine ready in case you see circles (kringen) on your model. You can apply some clean turpetine on these spots to make them go away. Remember that enamel paints need about 10 - 14 days time to cure, so don't use a wash before that. Acrylics are cured withing 20 minutes so you can apply the wash very soon after you've painted your model.

- Pretty funny the tank has lost it's way.....it's driving next to a direction sign! :-)

Well, those are my comments. I hope they are usefull for you. Just try it out! I'm sure you'll pleased with the results! And don't take this as I'm "attacking" you, just trying to help....

Cheers,
Martin
ShermiesRule
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Michigan, United States
Joined: December 11, 2003
KitMaker: 5,409 posts
Armorama: 3,777 posts
Posted: Friday, March 11, 2005 - 09:38 AM UTC
The rust on the exhaust looks fantastic. However ther rest of the tank need some rust too. Of course it wouldn't be as concentrated as the exhaust but wear and tear will have rusty spots.
Henk
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: August 07, 2004
KitMaker: 6,391 posts
Armorama: 4,258 posts
Posted: Friday, March 11, 2005 - 10:18 AM UTC
Nice one Eric, I agree that the exhaust looks great. It does however not fit in with the rest of your tank as it's to clean, as mentioned by Martin and Alan. If you are going to apply rust spots to the rest of the tank remember that armour doesn't rust like thin metal. I would only add rust to those thin parts like the mudguards and the airfilter, not the hull or turret itself. As for the tracks, they will rust very quickly when stopped, but when the tank moves they just get dirty and not very rusty. Especialy in muddy, snowy conditions. But then again, there are as many plausible weathering finishes as there are models, so if you weather you Pzr IV to your liking, you won't be wrong.

Groeten
Henk
blaster76
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Texas, United States
Joined: September 15, 2002
KitMaker: 8,985 posts
Armorama: 3,034 posts
Posted: Friday, March 11, 2005 - 10:35 AM UTC
whitewash isn't totally necessary. It could be an early snow. But tracks need a lot of weathering, need to highlight areas where they would rub End conectors and centerguides, maybe a hint of rust (do it as a wash) in the lower regions. Need to apply some mud to at least the lower end/bottom as this would be very prevalent. And as was pointed out washes applied over the entire vehicle. You did great job with building and painting the kit, now you've got to make it fit your diorama.
043
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Noord-Brabant, Netherlands
Joined: February 18, 2005
KitMaker: 1,242 posts
Armorama: 286 posts
Posted: Friday, March 11, 2005 - 11:19 AM UTC
listen very carefully :-), it's just starting to snow in this dio and by meaning that the pzr has lost his way ,the driver asked his commander wich direction to go, but
totally surprised the commander said: "I don't understand; this must be the road to Normandy!" so thats that.
I had give the tank two washes but instead of taking a darker tint it dryed up little lighter strange but true, but you're conclusion that it could bit darker i agree also with the rust , thanks for all of your comments
eric

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