This heavy damaged Panzer IV Lang cost me lots of patience (remains to the small dots on it, i've painted these by hand) of course the tank and camo i airbrushed, side skirts where made loose from each other they also give you a good look on the heavy damageof the tank, please let me know what you find of it, the rust on the exhaust is real
greetz eric
Hosted by Darren Baker
Heavy damaged
043
Noord-Brabant, Netherlands
Joined: February 18, 2005
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Joined: February 18, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, March 12, 2005 - 08:45 AM UTC
Davester444
England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: March 09, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, March 12, 2005 - 08:52 AM UTC
Great model, I love the paint job. Just wondering because it doesn't look like it's that damaged, it kind of looks like its been abandoned. Am I not looking close enough?
Max_Fischer
Indiana, United States
Joined: January 02, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, March 12, 2005 - 09:12 AM UTC
Hey 043
Let me start off by saying you did a good job on the camofluage. But for all the scratches, well some of them dont belong there. Most of the wear and tear is on the Horizontal area and some lil scratches on it.
Most of the wear and tear would be on the hatches,hindges,any where a person would walk on.
But other than that you did a bang up job on it!
I really like the mud. Keep up the great work.
Let me start off by saying you did a good job on the camofluage. But for all the scratches, well some of them dont belong there. Most of the wear and tear is on the Horizontal area and some lil scratches on it.
Most of the wear and tear would be on the hatches,hindges,any where a person would walk on.
But other than that you did a bang up job on it!
I really like the mud. Keep up the great work.
ThorsHammer
New Jersey, United States
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Posted: Saturday, March 12, 2005 - 10:42 AM UTC
The mode does look very good, the weathering is great! The only thing I have to say is that the decals look a little too bright. Besides that, its a fine build!
woltersk
Utah, United States
Joined: May 27, 2003
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Joined: May 27, 2003
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Posted: Saturday, March 12, 2005 - 10:50 AM UTC
I agree with ThorsHammer--the decals look too bright and new for the amount of wear and tear on the rest of the vehicle. Weathering those is an easy fix and will add much to an otherwise already great build.
Now a question--how are you guys doing the 'real rust'? I heard about placing nails or steel wool in water and letting it evaporate to get the 'real rust' residue, but how do you apply it to the kit?
Keep up the great work!
Now a question--how are you guys doing the 'real rust'? I heard about placing nails or steel wool in water and letting it evaporate to get the 'real rust' residue, but how do you apply it to the kit?
Keep up the great work!
Max_Fischer
Indiana, United States
Joined: January 02, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, March 12, 2005 - 01:05 PM UTC
woltersk, you can use Pigment powders also, Mig, MMP, or just make your own.
The way you make your own it you get some iron woll ( i believe thats what its called) and put it in some water and put a cap over the bottle and it set for a couple of day in the sun. After a while you just drain the water and your set.
The way you make your own it you get some iron woll ( i believe thats what its called) and put it in some water and put a cap over the bottle and it set for a couple of day in the sun. After a while you just drain the water and your set.
Joker111
Oregon, United States
Joined: January 22, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, March 12, 2005 - 06:58 PM UTC
The camo and weathering is very very good! I wish I could do it that subtle and perfect.
You should have stopped there.
The amount of chipped paint spots are too many, I think.
When I looked at the pictures at first, I thought it was a sort of unknown ambush scheme.
Although the rust on the exhaust muffler is well done, isn't it a little too heavy?
Again, less chipped paint and rust and you have one awesome price winning model in my opinion.
I hope you can share your techniques with us.
Frans
You should have stopped there.
The amount of chipped paint spots are too many, I think.
When I looked at the pictures at first, I thought it was a sort of unknown ambush scheme.
Although the rust on the exhaust muffler is well done, isn't it a little too heavy?
Again, less chipped paint and rust and you have one awesome price winning model in my opinion.
I hope you can share your techniques with us.
Frans
ave
Klang, Malaysia
Joined: March 24, 2003
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Posted: Saturday, March 12, 2005 - 08:05 PM UTC
I would have to say that the exhaust would have been changed long before it got that rusty.
007
Joined: February 18, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, March 12, 2005 - 08:48 PM UTC
Nice work Eric! Specialy the stunning brown dotted camouflage! Tracks may become some rust or mud.
Keith,
There is an interesting two-component item for sale to achieve rust effects: two liquids, which have to be painted onto the desired surface subsequently. One is the liquid iron the other is the catalyst. The chemical reaction creates the real rust in a very subtle and convincing way.
It's sold at most Dollshouses- and/or Modelrailwayssuplie websites. Mostly Scenic Rust, RustAll, Modern Options Inc. or other brands.
These, and other recepies to make your own rust can be find at: Panzermodellbau and N-Scale net
Rust them all!!!
Paul
Quoted Text
Now a question--how are you guys doing the 'real rust'?
Keith,
There is an interesting two-component item for sale to achieve rust effects: two liquids, which have to be painted onto the desired surface subsequently. One is the liquid iron the other is the catalyst. The chemical reaction creates the real rust in a very subtle and convincing way.
It's sold at most Dollshouses- and/or Modelrailwayssuplie websites. Mostly Scenic Rust, RustAll, Modern Options Inc. or other brands.
These, and other recepies to make your own rust can be find at: Panzermodellbau and N-Scale net
Rust them all!!!
Paul
007
Joined: February 18, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, March 12, 2005 - 09:01 PM UTC
Quoted Text
The amount of chipped paint spots are too many, I think. When I looked at the pictures at first, I thought it was a sort of unknown ambush scheme.
If reffered to the brown dots; it is an ambush scene for as far as I understanded it. Not chipped paint though?
043
Noord-Brabant, Netherlands
Joined: February 18, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 01:17 AM UTC
Hi there Keith i'd read your reaction on my model "Heavy Damaged", but also i read your' question,
well i will tell you how to do real rust, this rust is a product of MODERN OPTIONS and you can buy it in a duo package of two small plastic bottles, in one of them there is INSTANT IRON base coat and in the other one is the INSTANT RUST ntiquing solution, so first you have to bring the "instant iron" on places where you would like to have the rust, this base you let dry for 15 or 30 minutes and then you put the "instant rust" on it this oxydation will work on the iron base and after a while you have the look you wanted. Watch!!, the more oxydation you bring on, the lighter the rust will be colored. Tip after doing the rust you can use abit of black powder so it looks more realistic.
Each small bottle continues 59 ml of product, the cost of it (atleast in the Netherlands) is around 22 Euro's.
Succes.
If you have questions about it let me know i'll try to help
Greetings Eric Verberne
well i will tell you how to do real rust, this rust is a product of MODERN OPTIONS and you can buy it in a duo package of two small plastic bottles, in one of them there is INSTANT IRON base coat and in the other one is the INSTANT RUST ntiquing solution, so first you have to bring the "instant iron" on places where you would like to have the rust, this base you let dry for 15 or 30 minutes and then you put the "instant rust" on it this oxydation will work on the iron base and after a while you have the look you wanted. Watch!!, the more oxydation you bring on, the lighter the rust will be colored. Tip after doing the rust you can use abit of black powder so it looks more realistic.
Each small bottle continues 59 ml of product, the cost of it (atleast in the Netherlands) is around 22 Euro's.
Succes.
If you have questions about it let me know i'll try to help
Greetings Eric Verberne
043
Noord-Brabant, Netherlands
Joined: February 18, 2005
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Joined: February 18, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 01:26 AM UTC
Thanx for all comments guy's and of course for some of your tips, i'll use them in later models
eric
eric
MLD
Vermont, United States
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Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 01:44 AM UTC
I'll not go down the "too rusty" or "too chipped"road.
Those are a matter of preference for the builder/painter.
But my eye is drawn to the periscope sticking out of the roof. I like the fact it is just dk yellow, but a semigloss black 'glass' lens would really make that part pop out.
And I will echo the sentiment that the decals are too stark and clean against the background of the vehicle.
just my US$0.02
Mike
Those are a matter of preference for the builder/painter.
But my eye is drawn to the periscope sticking out of the roof. I like the fact it is just dk yellow, but a semigloss black 'glass' lens would really make that part pop out.
And I will echo the sentiment that the decals are too stark and clean against the background of the vehicle.
just my US$0.02
Mike
rv1963
New York, United States
Joined: December 07, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 02:31 AM UTC
I think you did a great job, i really like the hand painted camo, the only thing that looks off is the clean decals as others have said. Good all around work and you really filled your gallery up quickly with some really nice stuff.
Parks20
Maryland, United States
Joined: December 18, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 02:47 AM UTC
This is a good build. I agree with the decal and periscope comments already made by others. As for the paint job-it looks to me like an ambush scheme, not big paint chips or scratches. If that's the case it looks great. Is this the DML kit? If so how was the build, I have been wanting to build this tank for a while now.
M-60-A3
Ohio, United States
Joined: June 14, 2003
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Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 10:57 AM UTC
Hi Eric,
First let me extend a welcome to the board.
As for your model, I think you've done a good job. I would say that the chipping, although well done, is excessive. The weathering is very good and you should be very proud of the job you've done.
I agree with Max. Take a look at some pictures of the real vehicle for reference as to the "wear and tear".
Overall a good job and I think you should be proud of your work.
Joe
First let me extend a welcome to the board.
As for your model, I think you've done a good job. I would say that the chipping, although well done, is excessive. The weathering is very good and you should be very proud of the job you've done.
I agree with Max. Take a look at some pictures of the real vehicle for reference as to the "wear and tear".
Overall a good job and I think you should be proud of your work.
Joe
Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 02:12 PM UTC
Good lookin' armor Eric! Wanna go crazy a little more? The ambush scheme should include some Panzer dark yellow spots on the Rot brown fields,the disruptive opposites effect.Test on a derelict hull,You might be amazed.
Just a thought/cheers
Just a thought/cheers
043
Noord-Brabant, Netherlands
Joined: February 18, 2005
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Joined: February 18, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 02:39 PM UTC
Thanx everyone for your comments and compliments
as for Brian it's not the DML kit (DML stands for Dragon isn't it ?) but the kit is just one of earlier products of Tamiya, however the colorscheme i used was seen in an Italeri catalogue, you have to know that before i reached this result with this Panz. IV i made many ,many more of the same one but these were made in my early years of modelling and they don't exist anymore,
Greetings Eric
as for Brian it's not the DML kit (DML stands for Dragon isn't it ?) but the kit is just one of earlier products of Tamiya, however the colorscheme i used was seen in an Italeri catalogue, you have to know that before i reached this result with this Panz. IV i made many ,many more of the same one but these were made in my early years of modelling and they don't exist anymore,
Greetings Eric
woltersk
Utah, United States
Joined: May 27, 2003
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Posted: Friday, March 18, 2005 - 02:21 PM UTC
Thanks Eric and everyone else for the info and advice on acheiving that rust look.
I have been experimenting with pastel chalks and ended up with these results:
The 'real' rust and/or two part system sound a whole lot easier...
Model On!