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What kind of base materials do you use?
basturk
Joined: July 19, 2002
KitMaker: 212 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 12:39 AM UTC
Hi im interested to find out what kind of base materials do you guys use for the basic groundwork for your dioramas?? I tried celluclay and find that it tends to warp up after drying and in the process destroying the entire project. Any suggestions?
kkeefe
Joined: May 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,416 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 01:22 AM UTC
Basturk, 
I found that celluclay warps, lifts and shrinks, so for a number of years now, I've been using a similiar product called Sculptamold. It mixes just like the celly, but with none of the side-effects. Don't know if it's available in Singapore or not, but it is readily available here in Massachusetts USA.
I found that celluclay warps, lifts and shrinks, so for a number of years now, I've been using a similiar product called Sculptamold. It mixes just like the celly, but with none of the side-effects. Don't know if it's available in Singapore or not, but it is readily available here in Massachusetts USA.
AJLaFleche
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 01:28 AM UTC
I still use celluclay quite extensively. One of our figure guys showed us one way to help reduce lifting is to drill a number of holes in your base. When you press the celluclay down, it sinks into the holes and you have move bite. Adding a bit of white glue helps it adhere better, too.
Marty
Joined: June 16, 2002
KitMaker: 2,312 posts
Armorama: 1,054 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 01:35 AM UTC
I have been using celluclay for many years and it has never warped or lifted on me. With the right amount of water and white glue it works quite well. I did try sculptamold once but it hardened to quickly and did not give me enough time to make track impressions. I have heard of some people using colored tile grout.
kkeefe
Joined: May 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,416 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 01:47 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I have been using celluclay for many years and it has never warped or lifted on me. With the right amount of water and white glue it works quite well. I did try sculptamold once but it hardened to quickly and did not give me enough time to make track impressions.
Well, it does set up quickly, but I just add some water to soften it back up again. As a rule, I usually do something like 25% water to 75% white glue +/-. Just enough water to make it mixable. Basically the same mixing ratio (+/-) with the celly, but after a couple of years, my groundwork started to lift (just white glued and clamped it back down). I never liked the amount of shrinkage with the celly. Not even a concern with the sculpty. Maybe the drilling of the holes would work, but that's one more op in the woodshop... never had the need to do that with the sculpty... years on.
Whatever works for you, stick to it by all means. My bottom line says it all.... :-)
slodder
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 01:51 AM UTC
I use celluclay sometimes and have had no problems. I try to use small amounts and or thin coats. I build up under it with extra packing styrofoam to allow for thin coats.
I also use household spackle used on drywall. With this you must use thin coats because it shrinks when it drys.
I also use household spackle used on drywall. With this you must use thin coats because it shrinks when it drys.
mongo_mel
Joined: June 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,580 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 02:05 AM UTC
I just tried something I've heard about that worked very well for me. I used A+B epoxy putty.
I mixed up what I thought was enough to do the job and spread it around the base. Then I smoothed out the edges and used a rock I found to create the ground texture. I think it turned out pretty good. Plus, no warping or lifting off the base.
I mixed up what I thought was enough to do the job and spread it around the base. Then I smoothed out the edges and used a rock I found to create the ground texture. I think it turned out pretty good. Plus, no warping or lifting off the base.
whiterook
Joined: December 18, 2002
KitMaker: 263 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 08:02 PM UTC
Is there a web site were I can get this celluclay, I live in a small town in OR.
KFMagee
Joined: January 08, 2002
KitMaker: 1,586 posts
Armorama: 1,225 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 26, 2003 - 07:32 PM UTC
I often use Plaster of Paris... it shrinks very tight with little cracking if any...
Rattler
Joined: November 23, 2002
KitMaker: 512 posts
Armorama: 277 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 26, 2003 - 08:24 PM UTC
Whiterook ,
you might try www.hobbylobby.com an brows it . the one here in town always has a ton of it or even check out wally world if ya got on close to ya
Rattler
you might try www.hobbylobby.com an brows it . the one here in town always has a ton of it or even check out wally world if ya got on close to ya
Rattler
penpen
Joined: April 11, 2002
KitMaker: 1,757 posts
Armorama: 929 posts
Posted: Monday, January 27, 2003 - 03:57 AM UTC
tw products i've used :
- plaster of paris, extrememy cheap, easy to use, and you can find it anywhere
- wood putty, still very cheap, even easier to use, you can also find it anywhere. I like it better because it comes directly as a paste with makes it easier to shape. Also, it dries very hard !
- plaster of paris, extrememy cheap, easy to use, and you can find it anywhere
- wood putty, still very cheap, even easier to use, you can also find it anywhere. I like it better because it comes directly as a paste with makes it easier to shape. Also, it dries very hard !
Norseman
Joined: April 26, 2002
KitMaker: 270 posts
Armorama: 177 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 - 06:16 PM UTC
I've never tried Celluclay, but I've often used other kinds of papermache mixed with lots of white clue.
Plaster works well for some scenes, but it is heavy when applied in thick coats.
Plaster works well for some scenes, but it is heavy when applied in thick coats.
FAUST
#130
Joined: June 07, 2002
KitMaker: 8,797 posts
Armorama: 4,190 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 - 08:38 PM UTC
For all my bases i only use two materials
The blue Styrofoam And Wallspackle
First buildup all the leveling needed with the Foam then put wall spackle on top of that.
(wallspackle is used ny carpenters to fill holes in the wall) You can find the spackle in any DIY shop and it`s very cheap and then you have a big tube full spackle. Another good thing is that it takes a while to dry so you can sculpt it a long time. it takes about 24 hours to dry completely and then you can sand it or do whatever you want.
The blue Styrofoam And Wallspackle
First buildup all the leveling needed with the Foam then put wall spackle on top of that.
(wallspackle is used ny carpenters to fill holes in the wall) You can find the spackle in any DIY shop and it`s very cheap and then you have a big tube full spackle. Another good thing is that it takes a while to dry so you can sculpt it a long time. it takes about 24 hours to dry completely and then you can sand it or do whatever you want.
Howitzer
Joined: February 24, 2003
KitMaker: 232 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, February 24, 2003 - 09:12 AM UTC
My dad gave me some patching compound. It is like a rock. | |
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m1garand
Joined: February 08, 2002
KitMaker: 1,248 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, February 24, 2003 - 09:26 AM UTC
I use plaster cloth from Woodland Scenics
Quoted Text
C1203 - Plaster Cloth (10 sq.ft. Roll)
The simple, convenient and lightweight way to create a durable terrain shell or base. It is a quick, no mix, no mess way of creating a lightweight scenery base. Roll is 8" wide x 15' long (10 sq. ft.)
keenan
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,272 posts
Armorama: 2,844 posts
Posted: Monday, February 24, 2003 - 11:25 AM UTC
I use Celluclay all the time. Sometimes it does pull up from the edges of the dio but I just tack it back down with super glue. I love the stuff...
keenan
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,272 posts
Armorama: 2,844 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 - 01:13 AM UTC
Here are a couple of in process pics of celluclay with kitty litter on a dio I am working on... 
Battle of the Bud Light, Indiana, 2003... Hee Hee
Battle of the Bud Light, Indiana, 2003... Hee Hee
basturk
Joined: July 19, 2002
KitMaker: 212 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 - 05:25 PM UTC
The problem with celluclay is that it doesnt only lift off the surface, in fact it warped the entire base! I switched to plaster of paris and find that apart from the fact that it dries too fast for my liking,it actually works much better than celluclay........and it s cheaper too! :-)
Folgore
Joined: May 31, 2002
KitMaker: 1,109 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 - 05:43 PM UTC
I use Celluclay as well. I mix it with a lot of white glue to keep it from peeling at the edges. Basturk, your base is probably warping because it is soaking up the moisture from the Celluclay. Try giving the top of the base a coat of varnish before you apply the Celluclay. i have found that even a couple coats of Future floor polish does the trick in preventing the moisture from warping it.
Celluclay is great because it takes a long time to dry. I was recently working on a fairly large desert diorama. Because the Celluclay stayed wet for so long, I was able to place my sand and pebbles in it afterwards (even with a lunch break in between) and I didn't have to glue anything down (the white glue in the Celluclay helps too, of course).
Nic
Celluclay is great because it takes a long time to dry. I was recently working on a fairly large desert diorama. Because the Celluclay stayed wet for so long, I was able to place my sand and pebbles in it afterwards (even with a lunch break in between) and I didn't have to glue anything down (the white glue in the Celluclay helps too, of course).
Nic
Selrach
Joined: January 04, 2003
KitMaker: 466 posts
Armorama: 378 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 - 05:43 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Here are a couple of in process pics of celluclay with kitty litter on a dio I am working on...
Battle of the Bud Light, Indiana, 2003... Hee Hee
Indiana? Must be, that looks a lot like the roads around here. :-) Are you a neighbor? I'm near Terre Haute myself.
keenan
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,272 posts
Armorama: 2,844 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 - 11:34 PM UTC
Marion, and the roads are still screwed... 8 degrees actual right now... 
lonewolf
Joined: December 06, 2002
KitMaker: 478 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 20, 2003 - 06:28 PM UTC
I use plaster of Paris...Takes some time to dry, though...Can't find wood putty here in the Philippines...CRAP...Plaster cracks too...(or maybe I added a lot of water...)
HastyP
Joined: April 23, 2003
KitMaker: 1,117 posts
Armorama: 468 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 24, 2003 - 11:10 AM UTC
I have used plaster of paris and polyfilla. Both work very well.
alphasniper
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 83 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, April 25, 2003 - 03:55 AM UTC
Quoted Text
For all my bases i only use two materials
The blue Styrofoam And Wallspackle
First buildup all the leveling needed with the Foam then put wall spackle on top of that.
(wallspackle is used ny carpenters to fill holes in the wall) You can find the spackle in any DIY shop and it`s very cheap and then you have a big tube full spackle. Another good thing is that it takes a while to dry so you can sculpt it a long time. it takes about 24 hours to dry completely and then you can sand it or do whatever you want.
I have found that styrofoam melts when I put any type of glue on it and it absorbs plaster, celluclay papermache and just about every thing else, how do you get it to work?
PanzerManiac
Joined: April 25, 2003
KitMaker: 1 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, April 25, 2003 - 07:36 AM UTC
I´ve used brown acrylic mastic when making a road, and for making the muddy banks of a river. Looks rather good i think. Read more about it on http://www.staff.ncl.ac.uk/nikolas.lloyd/models/scenery/scenery.html
Check out the rivers and ponds section, and the roads and craters section. It´s cheap too.
Check out the rivers and ponds section, and the roads and craters section. It´s cheap too.
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