Hello everybody,
I was wondering what are you using to fix those PE parts with other PE? Do you solder or use CA? If you solder, then which soldering iron would you recommend?
Hosted by Darren Baker
Soldering PE parts
panzer_fan
Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 25, 2003
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Joined: March 25, 2003
KitMaker: 427 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, March 22, 2005 - 08:29 AM UTC
GSPatton
California, United States
Joined: September 04, 2002
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Joined: September 04, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, March 22, 2005 - 08:47 AM UTC
considering how thin most PE is - Soldering might be somewhat impossible - I use super glue seems to work just fine.
MrRoo
Queensland, Australia
Joined: October 07, 2002
KitMaker: 3,856 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, March 22, 2005 - 08:50 AM UTC
soldering PE is an art form in itself. You need a very low heat soldering iron to do it but it gives a better, stronger bond then CA.
Of course this has to be done metal to metal and CA glue or expoxy glue used to fit the PE to plastic.
go to http://www.ww2modelmaker.com/articlepub/ESsodht.htm
for an article on it
Of course this has to be done metal to metal and CA glue or expoxy glue used to fit the PE to plastic.
go to http://www.ww2modelmaker.com/articlepub/ESsodht.htm
for an article on it
demodelbouwer
Noord-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 13, 2002
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Joined: April 13, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, March 22, 2005 - 09:45 AM UTC
a while back i.ve build a russian tank and the motor hatch was a P.E. variant..
Due to the curving of that engine cover is was not possible to glue it with CA. So i soldered it.
i've just sanded the the cover on hte inside down so that the solder would get some grip.
it essential that you have a solder apperatus that can be adjusted the a proper temperature to prevent that the the P.E. wil get to hot.
it is a hell of a job but it can be done.
also small P.E. parts can be glued with CA that is no problem....
succes
grtz
Eric
Due to the curving of that engine cover is was not possible to glue it with CA. So i soldered it.
i've just sanded the the cover on hte inside down so that the solder would get some grip.
it essential that you have a solder apperatus that can be adjusted the a proper temperature to prevent that the the P.E. wil get to hot.
it is a hell of a job but it can be done.
also small P.E. parts can be glued with CA that is no problem....
succes
grtz
Eric
Biggles2
Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
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Joined: January 01, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, March 27, 2005 - 04:33 AM UTC
Yeah, don't try to solder PE to the plastic kit! :-) :-) :-)
18Bravo
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
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Joined: January 20, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, March 27, 2005 - 08:20 AM UTC
The best way to solder PE (and other small joints) is with a resistance soldering unit. No need for heat sinks, and you can get very precise joints.
LIFER
Canada
Joined: September 04, 2002
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Joined: September 04, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, March 27, 2005 - 11:35 AM UTC
INn Canada at Canadian tire is a device called cold heat used for jewelery fine wires etc I'm sure they must be available in the states. Maybe called something else. They use I believe AA batteries and are a little larger than a hefty ball point pen. You line up the parts put a small piece of solder where the joint is to be made, press the button and voila instant soldered joint. Cant remember the price exactly but I believe around $40 canadian give or take a some.There is no heat until the button is pushed and its cool to the touch instantly thus the name COLD HEAT