AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Tatoo, sticker ??
Rammy
Quebec, Canada
Joined: March 29, 2005
KitMaker: 20 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: March 29, 2005
KitMaker: 20 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, April 11, 2005 - 08:40 AM UTC
Ok guys, well I know this is quite a noob question, but I just realised that the logos for my newly purchased revell 1:48 huey aren't stickers...They seem like tatoos or something, anyways how exacly do I stick them?
AJLaFleche
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Monday, April 11, 2005 - 09:16 AM UTC
You most likely have waterslide decals.
Before applying them, lay a gloss coat on the Huey. This will give a nice smooth surface. Cut the decal as close as possible to the design and dip it in tepid water for a moment or two. Each decal is different. You cna remove it form the water as soon as the backing looks soaked. Gently tap it with a clean brush to see when it's adhessive has been loosened. When the pattern moves easily, pick it up, preferably with tweezers, place it where you want it and genlty pull the backing away. You'll have a few seconds of wiggle room to adjust the position. Let it be. You probably don't have decal setting solution, so just let it sit there. If the surface has a lot of detail, like rivets or panel lines, you can use a facial tissue to press the decal down and absorb some of the water.
Repeat this with each decal and let the model sit for a day or so. You can then apply a flat coat to seal the decals in.
Since it sounds like you're new to waterslide, let's leave the tutorial at that. There's still more to learn, but this will get you started.
The other (unlikely) possibility is that you have dry transfers. These would have the side you normally see behind a translucent waxy carrier film and would have another sheet be hnd it. You'd again cut it out and place the decal where you want it. You'd then use a simple burnishing tool, like a regular old pencil, and burnish it down by running the pencil over the carrier fillm until the pattern is covered then slowly peel the carrier away. Once applied, you can't move these.
Before applying them, lay a gloss coat on the Huey. This will give a nice smooth surface. Cut the decal as close as possible to the design and dip it in tepid water for a moment or two. Each decal is different. You cna remove it form the water as soon as the backing looks soaked. Gently tap it with a clean brush to see when it's adhessive has been loosened. When the pattern moves easily, pick it up, preferably with tweezers, place it where you want it and genlty pull the backing away. You'll have a few seconds of wiggle room to adjust the position. Let it be. You probably don't have decal setting solution, so just let it sit there. If the surface has a lot of detail, like rivets or panel lines, you can use a facial tissue to press the decal down and absorb some of the water.
Repeat this with each decal and let the model sit for a day or so. You can then apply a flat coat to seal the decals in.
Since it sounds like you're new to waterslide, let's leave the tutorial at that. There's still more to learn, but this will get you started.
The other (unlikely) possibility is that you have dry transfers. These would have the side you normally see behind a translucent waxy carrier film and would have another sheet be hnd it. You'd again cut it out and place the decal where you want it. You'd then use a simple burnishing tool, like a regular old pencil, and burnish it down by running the pencil over the carrier fillm until the pattern is covered then slowly peel the carrier away. Once applied, you can't move these.