I have used Krazy Glue and have been successful but the applicator makes it very difficult with the tiny pieces. What are some othe brand names would you suggest?

Ryne, depending on what you are attaching, you can use various adhesives, not just superglues. For small parts on ejection seats and such I use Future Floor Polish or even white glue. Anything that might take some handling gets either the superglue treatment or 5 minute epoxy. There is even a 1 minute epoxy out now that I have had good results with, but you have to be quick with positioning the piece. I have found that putting the superglue on a small piece of masking tape and using either a dental pick or toothpick to apply it works best. I hate those clogged up nozzles as much as the next guy. I once had one of the super fine applicator tips on and was applying some glue when the tip came off and about a gazillion gallons of glue went all over the place ruining the model and bringing forth some rather colorful words (Made my dog blush :-)) Best to transfer and then apply with a small tool of some sort. Hope this helps you. "Q"

Future floor polish???

Future is a clear acrylic floor polish that a lot of people (including myself) use to dip clear parts of aircraft in. It gives the canopy a clear, glass-like look. Some people even use it to gloss-coat a model before decaling. It does have adhesive properties. While I've never tried it myself, I believe Matt when he says it will work.

I have been using a new gel super glue I found at the hardware store, called "qwick click" or something like that. Comes in a sturdy plastic container. You squeeze the sides, and a little gel is released. The tip has yet to clog for me, and I've used the container about 20 times already. I don't know quite how it works, but it does. I swear by it.

Mike

PE adhesive:
I use epoxy and Zap always. I apply w/ a toothpic or a needle instead of using them straight from the bottle. You can have more control of the application this way and you dont get alot of glue marks in the finish. Hope it helps. Todd

Yep, Future. Same as Mike described it. I also use it for attaching aircraft canopys. I mix it with a little white glue, apply it to the sill area and let it set up a bit to become tacky. Put the canopy in place and leave it for a good while (Usually a day to be safe) Depending on where you are putting your PE parts you can use this stuff. It makes things really easy instead of trying to deal with superglue smears, parts getting stuck where you don't want them, etc. You have a really long working time. If you want to have them set up a bit faster, try the white glue route. What specifically are you working on with PE? This might give me a better idea of where you are going. "Q"

I use a glue called 'LOCTITE'. You can get it from hardware stores (dunno if you can get it in the states).
Its not cheap but it is EXTREMELY strong and Lasts for ever unlike those cheap Revell glues you get where it literally melts the plastic if you use too much and goes brital after about 1 - 2 years and parts snap off (So Long my bueatiful 1/72 Lancaster ).

Anyway. Once the glue has made contact it will set in around 5 to 10 seconds so you have to get it right first time.

The glue comes in a variety of sized and shaped containers ranging from normal tubes (like toothpaste) a small plastic Pippet type container and huge tubs of the stuff. I use the Pippet thingy as it has a small needle nose shape applier on the end. I haven't had any block up's or leaks with it.

Ahh and one other thing it sticks to anything including skin on your fingers. (as i found out a couple of days ago).

If you do get the stuff on you fingers NEVER TOUCH YOUR FACE ESPECIALLY YOUR EYES.




COmmandosolo.

whit glue gifs a nice log time to position the PE but isn't realy strong.
Try stikking it on with whit glue and aply the supper glue (whith a needle) around PE.