Hello guys,
Probably this question has been asked before. I would like to know how and with what are you cleaning the PE parts before glueing them and/or painting. Just use dishsoap?
Best regards,
AFV Painting & Weathering
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Cleaning PE parts
panzer_fan
Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 25, 2003
KitMaker: 427 posts
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Joined: March 25, 2003
KitMaker: 427 posts
Armorama: 348 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 02:04 AM UTC
Drader
Wales, United Kingdom
Joined: July 20, 2004
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Joined: July 20, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 03:43 AM UTC
The first thing to remember is not to handle the PE parts themselves too much. The oils in your skin will etch your fingerprints into the brass if not cleaned off. This does not look attractive So hold the frets by the frames.
Cleaning isn't really necessary, but a quick clean with a solvent - like paint remover - should remove any chemical residue left over from etching. Then before gluing I clean up the joining surfaces with a sanding stick.
Where you are going to put complex bends into parts, or roll them into tubes, it helps to heat up the PE with a candle or low gas flame (without melting it!). Then let the part(s) air cool. That should make the metal easier to bend. This should only be necessary with thick PE though.
Cleaning isn't really necessary, but a quick clean with a solvent - like paint remover - should remove any chemical residue left over from etching. Then before gluing I clean up the joining surfaces with a sanding stick.
Where you are going to put complex bends into parts, or roll them into tubes, it helps to heat up the PE with a candle or low gas flame (without melting it!). Then let the part(s) air cool. That should make the metal easier to bend. This should only be necessary with thick PE though.
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 04:36 AM UTC
I second David inputs and also add that you can clean/wash your PE sets with vinigar (cheaper too)!
The heating of PE is only advisable it it isn't too delicate (I am thinking of 1/700 warship PE sets)
Skipper
Skipper
The heating of PE is only advisable it it isn't too delicate (I am thinking of 1/700 warship PE sets)
Skipper
Skipper
Tobar
Arizona, United States
Joined: October 17, 2002
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Joined: October 17, 2002
KitMaker: 192 posts
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Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 08:45 AM UTC
I try to handle PE parts with pair of tweesers, the kind that are normally closed. (There maybe a proper name for them that I don't know of. )
I use a fine sanding stick to clean off the attatment to the PE tree.
I use a fine sanding stick to clean off the attatment to the PE tree.
rebelsoldier
Arizona, United States
Joined: June 30, 2004
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Joined: June 30, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 09:33 AM UTC
try to handle PE parts with pair of tweesers, the kind that are normally closed. (There maybe a proper name for them that I don't know of.
hemostats, a medical tool
reb
hemostats, a medical tool
reb
Darktrooper
Delaware, United States
Joined: November 05, 2004
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Joined: November 05, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 01:50 PM UTC
Quoted Text
try to handle PE parts with pair of tweesers, the kind that are normally closed. (There maybe a proper name for them that I don't know of.
hemostats, a medical tool
reb
They use those for sewing alot too. I know cause my mom's hobby is sewing!
Stryker
England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: February 13, 2005
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Joined: February 13, 2005
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Posted: Friday, May 06, 2005 - 03:03 AM UTC
Glass fibre scratch pencil, very gentle, provides a good key and removes the plating.
Jim
Jim
panzer_fan
Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 25, 2003
KitMaker: 427 posts
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Joined: March 25, 2003
KitMaker: 427 posts
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Posted: Saturday, May 07, 2005 - 01:29 AM UTC
Like always, awesome info. Thanks a lot guys. Cheers!