I'm thinking of doing a Dinky-Dio for a WWI tank I'm building for the MM Campaign. I have a bag of EZ-Water and was planning to use it for a water filled shell crater. My question is, can you tint this stuff to give it that brackish look yet maintain an effect of depth?

Thanks for your time
Steve

Hi Steven,
I tried to tint this stuff before. Just pour a little bit of EZ and then paint it however you like. I used enamels and it worked. Next day after the paint has set, I poured another layer of EZ and so on till you are satisfied with the result.

Steven, I specifically emailed Woodland Scenics and asked them the question that you asked about tinting the EZ water. The following is how they responded.

Mary,

E-Z Water is used successfully by many modelers but it also has some characteristics that do not make it the preferred product for many applications; i.e. it dries brittle and can fracture if even slightly flexed or stressed, is itself yellow in color and therefore cannot be used to make blue water, requires heating at high temperature to use, etc. Woodland Scenics has introduced two new products (Realistic Water and Water Effects) that avoid these problems and are usually a better choice for modeling water.

With respect to your specific question regarding E-Z Water, yes, it can be tinted but only by adding dry powder pigment before the melting process. Never add liquid of any kind to E-Z Water.
E-Z Water

E-Z Water is a low odor, non-toxic plastic product that comes in the form of pellets, which are melted and poured into the prepared area on the layout. E-Z Water is easy to use because there is no measuring, no mixing, and it sets rapidly. Texturing of the water surface and repairs such as scratches can easily be accomplished after E-Z Water is in place with the use of a heat gun.

Preparing E-Z Water Areas: It is probably easier to wait until the complete ground cover landscaping is in place before adding E-Z Water to the layout. In most situations, it will be adequate to pour E-Z Water approximately 1/8" deep. Look at the areas where you plan to pour the E-Z Water. The contour materials around the edges of the areas where you plan lakes, harbors, or ponds may already be sufficient to hold 1/8" of liquid. If not, use some Lightweight Hydrocal or strips of Plaster Cloth to build up the banks. Be sure the bottom of these areas is level. E-Z Water will be heated to a high temperature before pouring. Therefore, do not pour it directly onto cellular Styrofoam or any other material which will melt.

Before pouring E-Z Water, the area underneath must be sealed to help prevent air bubbles from rising into the water. To do this, paint on a thick layer of Flex Paste wherever you plan to pour the E-Z Water and let it dry. Be sure to seal all cracks and holes. E-Z Water will set quickly enough that a small hole will not allow it to leak out. However, small cracks or holes will permit air bubbles to rise into the -Z Water.

Coloring E-Z Water Areas: Flex Paste remains white when it is dry. E-Z Water is transparent and light yellow or amber in color. Therefore, color must be added for a realistic looking result. Preparing water areas which have color can be done by coloring the bottom of the area or by a combination of coloring the bottom and tinting the E-Z Water itself. The water you get from the kitchen tap is clear and generally colorless, but water in its natural setting is seldom this pure. The water in lakes, pond, rivers, and oceans has dirt, algae, and other organisms in it that help to color it.

For a greenish brown coloring of water areas, use Stone Gray Liquid Pigment brushed on full strength over the flex Paste for an opaque covering. Allow the pigment to dry. Spray Scenic cement and sprinkle on a thin but even coating of Fine Turf pre-mixed in the following proportions: two parts Earth, two parts Burnt Grass, and one part Soil. Allow the dry completely before pouring E-Z Water.

Other combinations of Earth Color Liquid Pigments and Fine Turf colors can be used to create water areas with different coloring. Experiment to find the combinations that you like best. If you want to indicate more depth, add a darker color of Turf under some areas. Use Soil or Earth fine turf for this purpose. Blend the colors from the more shallow areas into the deeper areas for the most realistic look.

Deeper water areas like large lakes, ports and oceans are the most llikely to appear somewhat blue green. Brush on an opaque layer of a medium to dark blue green acrylic paint to achieve this color. Avoid the lighter and brighter blues because they do not look natural. A little black color may be added to some areas to indicate the deeper water.

If you want to tint the E-Z water itself, this can be done with an appropriate color of powdered Rit dye. Do not add any liquids to E-Z Water as they could boil over and cause burns. We suggest Navy Blue, Dark Green, or Pearl Gray Rit Dye. Add 1/16 teaspoon of powdered Rit dye to one bag of E-Z Water pellets before melting. Be sure to thoroughly mix the dye with the E-Z Water as it melts using a disposable wooden stick. When the E-Z Water reaches a liquid stage, place a couple of drops on aluminum foil to check the color. If it is too light, add more powdered Rit dye. If it is too dark, add a little more E-Z Water. Prepare the water area in the same manner as above with a coating of Flex Paste. Then cover with Liquid Pigment and a sprinkling of Fine turf before pouring E-Z Water.

Ballast, Talus, Turf material or Dead Fall can be attached to the bottom of the water areas before pouring E-Z Water. Attach these items with Scenic Glue after the Flex Paste covering is on and the area has been colored. Allow everything to dry thoroughly. If you want sediment to float in your E-Z Water, sprinkle some Fine or Coarse Turf in the water area, but do not attach it. When the E-Z Water is poured, this material will be suspended in the E-Z Water. Items such as sticks, rocks, or weeds may contain moisture or air pockets that will cause bubbles to form in the E-Z Water and are therefore not particularly desirable. Any plastic items you plan to imbed in E-Z Water, such as boats or people, should be tested first with a small sample of liquid E-Z Water. These plastic items may be melted by the E-Z Water.

Pouring E-Z Water: Melt the E-Z Water pellets in a a clean, dry disposable tin can, metal dish or pot because the residue is difficult to remove. A Teflon coated pan can also be used. E-Z Water can be removed from the Teflon, but may stick to the outside of the pan. Caution: E-Z Water is very difficult to remove if spilled. Use a burner, oven, or toaster oven to melt it quickly at a high temperature (approximately 400 degrees). E-Z Water cam be re-melted if it hardens before pouring. Smoking indicates the E-Z Water is too hot. Although not dangerous, the temperature should be reduced. You may want to use a disposable non-melting utensil such as a tongue depressor, craft stick, dowel rod, or old spoon (not plastic) to gently stir the E-Z Water. This will help distribute the heat and promote quicker melting. Alternative heat sources such as a heat lamp, Sterno stove, or propane stove will also work. Do not add any liquids to E-Z Water. They will not mix with the plastic and could erupt in a dangerous manner. Caution: the heated material is hot enough to severely burn your skin. As soon as the pellets are liquid, pour into the prepared area on the layout. If the E-Z Water hardens before pouring, just re-melt. The pellets are nearly colorless when melted but they will darken slightly if continuously exposed to heat in a melted form for more than 15 minutes. E-Z Water will harden in just a few minutes, depending on how deep it is poured. One package of E-Z Water will cover approximately a 14" diameter circle when poured 1/8" deep.

Repairing E-Z Water: Use a heat gun to remove air bubbles or make any repairs which are needed. Heat guns are available at hardware or home building stores. A heat gun may be used before the E-Z Water has set or after it is completely set. Hold the heat gun approximately six inches from the surface of the E-Z Water and move it continuously in a circular pattern as you remelt the surface. Scratches and cracks are repaired by re-melting the surface with the heat gun, which allows the scratches to disappear and the edges of the cracks to merge together. A rounded lip may occur along the edges of your body of water where the E-Z Water cooled too quickly. Use the heat gun to blow hot air along the rounded lip and flatten it out.

Hope this helps you and maybe others as well.

Alguhan and Mary,

Thank you both very much.
Your responses have been very helpful!

Best Wishes
Steve

Yo,Steve!
Since it's fairly small area to do,try tinting a small amount of Future with acrylics,water colors, or food coloring.I imagine it would be best to do in layers.
HTH
cheers!

hmmmmmm That sounds interesting, I might just try that!

Thanks Rick!

Steve