Ok, it is done. I finished the kit just today, even after a horrible crash while the dull coat was drying. whew!
The basics: This is the Tamiya Jagdpanther (late) kit with a Jordio Rubio barrel and Tamiya deck screens. Otherwise, OOB. Very nice build, no problems at all.
Painting: I finished the kit in a 3 tone banded cammo. Since I wanted the vehicle to have a distressed winter cammo look, and since I use acrylics that mess up the "salt-distress" method, I used really thick (drying up) rubber cement to mask off the areas I wanted to show through. Next, I painted the whole kit Panzer Grey. Then I clouded on Camoflauge grey. and then I hit the very highlights with Tamiya white. In retrospect I could have just skipped the panzer grey step. Once done and dry, I peeled off the rubber cement and Viola! A crappy looking tank. Thankfully I had more to do to it!
Weathering: I next drybrushed a coat of the panzer grey over edges and details, making sure to not overdo the effect. This was fairly hard, but eventually worked out ok. This also helped to tie in the patches with the regular white-wash scheme. I also made some marks that would look like water runoff using watercolor. Not too much, but enough to show.
Shading: Here is a new technique I am using that really works well once you get the hang of it. I take Pigment that I bought in bulk from Dick Blick and mix it with water into a runny paste. I then take a No.2 paint brush and load it up and run it along the shade lines of the vehicle, yup, the whole thing. Then, after it has dried (about 15 minutes) I take Q-tips and wet them down lightly and start to remove the pigment. It takes practice to know what to leave and what to take, but it works out real well. Even in areas that the pigment is removed from, there is a slight discoloration that gives the impression of a shade without looking like it was applied. Hard to explain,but it is noticable. Also, if this technique is done over a gloss finish, it comes off very easy without any "tinting" of the undercoat. On a flat finish you get a bit more out of the shading.
The wrap up. Once I was done with all that, I used my standard Future floor polish/burnt umber watercolor mix to gloss the kit up and to help blend all the effect together. After 2 says drying, I added a dull coat, did a few touch-ups, and there you have it.
Phew! Nice to have this one out the chute!
A good top view, showing the "chipping" I got out of the rubber cement.
A good side shot showing the big "swipe" I did on the superstructure side, just to make it look different. Also, the cleaning rod container was done after the vehicle proper was finished, but the technique worked so well that it does not look like it was finished seperately.
The other side. I need to clear some space to add bigger/better images of the build. These pictures just do not so justice to the kit.
Hosted by Richard S.
Ardennes Jagdpanther finished!
Jacques
Minnesota, United States
Joined: March 04, 2003
KitMaker: 4,630 posts
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Joined: March 04, 2003
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Posted: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 - 10:46 AM UTC
Vadster
Tennessee, United States
Joined: June 28, 2004
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Joined: June 28, 2004
KitMaker: 987 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 - 01:09 AM UTC
I can see from these pictures that you have done a great job with the painting. I'm not so sure, about the swipe part. You said you were doing that just to make the model look different, so I'm down with it!
slodder
North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
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Joined: February 22, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 - 01:19 AM UTC
Out of the chute - right into a "Full Ride" - all 8 seconds
Dick Blick? What is that? And what pigments did you get? I'm very curious - I like the affect.
Dick Blick? What is that? And what pigments did you get? I'm very curious - I like the affect.
Jacques
Minnesota, United States
Joined: March 04, 2003
KitMaker: 4,630 posts
Armorama: 4,498 posts
Joined: March 04, 2003
KitMaker: 4,630 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 - 02:25 AM UTC
Yeah, I wish it had only taken 8 seconds. I know I should post more for build-up, but it is between that or building. I choose building.
Anyhow, Dick Blick is a art store chain here in the States, but I am not sure where they are all located. You can find them on the web, that is where I ordered my pigment from.
The pigment is the ground up coloring that goes into chalks, paints, etc... Stuff like Iron Oxide is made from, well...Iron Oxide. They come in large jars (about 24oz or so) for about $8, very economical. They are very comparable to things like Mig pigments and the VLS line, just cheaper. I know they may not be as well ground up, but I have not noticed a difference yet.
I will try ( I PROMISE) to do a article for the site on how this works. Really. Not sure when, but soon enough! :-)
Anyhow, Dick Blick is a art store chain here in the States, but I am not sure where they are all located. You can find them on the web, that is where I ordered my pigment from.
The pigment is the ground up coloring that goes into chalks, paints, etc... Stuff like Iron Oxide is made from, well...Iron Oxide. They come in large jars (about 24oz or so) for about $8, very economical. They are very comparable to things like Mig pigments and the VLS line, just cheaper. I know they may not be as well ground up, but I have not noticed a difference yet.
I will try ( I PROMISE) to do a article for the site on how this works. Really. Not sure when, but soon enough! :-)
jackhammer81
Nebraska, United States
Joined: August 12, 2003
KitMaker: 2,394 posts
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Joined: August 12, 2003
KitMaker: 2,394 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 - 03:24 AM UTC
Jacques, excellent Jagdpanther you have made here. It really has took on a whole new look with the winter camo. I really like it.
I have been wondering about the pigments from DickBlicks for a long time. Our closest store is 85 miles away in Omaha. I will have to check it out next time I am thru there. Only thing I get from them now are my windsor newton series 7 brushes. For anyone out there check them out on the web these brushes are usually on sale for a greatly reduced price.
I look forward to seeing your review too. Cheers Kevin
I have been wondering about the pigments from DickBlicks for a long time. Our closest store is 85 miles away in Omaha. I will have to check it out next time I am thru there. Only thing I get from them now are my windsor newton series 7 brushes. For anyone out there check them out on the web these brushes are usually on sale for a greatly reduced price.
I look forward to seeing your review too. Cheers Kevin
keenan
Indiana, United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,272 posts
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Joined: October 16, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 - 03:38 AM UTC
Below is a link to the only dry pigments i could (quickly) find over at the Dick Blick webstore. These look really nice: good color variety and four oz. bottle for four bucks.
Hope this helps,
Shaun
http://www.dickblick.com/zz029/59/
Hope this helps,
Shaun
http://www.dickblick.com/zz029/59/
Jacques
Minnesota, United States
Joined: March 04, 2003
KitMaker: 4,630 posts
Armorama: 4,498 posts
Joined: March 04, 2003
KitMaker: 4,630 posts
Armorama: 4,498 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 - 01:12 PM UTC
Yeah, those are the ones I use. Sorry for the screwup on size, it should have read 4oz not 24oz.
I highly recomend both the pigments and the brushes mentioned above as well. Also, remember that working with pigment is a fair amount different than working with groud up chalk, something I learned the hard way.
I highly recomend both the pigments and the brushes mentioned above as well. Also, remember that working with pigment is a fair amount different than working with groud up chalk, something I learned the hard way.
Silantra
Putrajaya, Malaysia
Joined: March 04, 2004
KitMaker: 2,511 posts
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Joined: March 04, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 - 02:53 PM UTC
Hi Jacques
nice jadgpanther u have manage to finished in what u called 'horible looking tank'. TO me it look real and brutal. but i cant help to notice the side fenders were too good or too perfect. after the heavy chipping, some spare track lost, i think it's better if u cut some of the fender loose or add bend and dent on the side fender. this will tell how hard the JP have been going through. hehe..
cheers
just my RM 0.02 cents
nice jadgpanther u have manage to finished in what u called 'horible looking tank'. TO me it look real and brutal. but i cant help to notice the side fenders were too good or too perfect. after the heavy chipping, some spare track lost, i think it's better if u cut some of the fender loose or add bend and dent on the side fender. this will tell how hard the JP have been going through. hehe..
cheers
just my RM 0.02 cents
Jacques
Minnesota, United States
Joined: March 04, 2003
KitMaker: 4,630 posts
Armorama: 4,498 posts
Joined: March 04, 2003
KitMaker: 4,630 posts
Armorama: 4,498 posts
Posted: Thursday, June 09, 2005 - 01:36 PM UTC
Yeah, I know the sideskirts are too nice, but the Tamiya Rubber-band tracks are too darn tight to look good. I had originally decided to use the individual links I bought for the kit, but ran out of time. So I just put on the sideskirts uncut.
Besides, I wanted this TD to look like it had been running like a bat out of hell, but with little damage.
Good enought for me...maybe... :-)
Besides, I wanted this TD to look like it had been running like a bat out of hell, but with little damage.
Good enought for me...maybe... :-)