Hi...I need some advice and thought this is the place to come. As the subject mentions, I attempted to apply zimmerit to DML's Elefant with Tamiya's Putty Basic Type, and had disastrous results. Admittedly, I am somewhat new to armor modeling and this was my first attempt and creating my own zimmerit instead of using aftermarket stuff.
I read some time ago that Tamiya had possibly altered the make-up of this putty and although I am no expert, this seemed essentially to be unworkable as a reproduction of zimmerit. With all of that said, I have two questions.
First, is there something I can use to remove the dried putty from the model without ruining the model and its plastic?
Second, I was thinking about trying either Aves Apoxie Sculpt or possibly Milliput putty. Can someone provide insight as to which works better, or is there an alternative that I could purchase from a Hobby Lobby/Michaels/Home Depot (since I am rather impatient and do not like waiting for shipment from online stores).
Thanks for your anticipated assistance and patience for a new modeler and first time poster!
Randy
Hosted by Darren Baker
Failed Zimmerit with Tamiya Putty
trabbott
South Dakota, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 - 03:01 PM UTC
Monte
Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 - 03:21 PM UTC
Hi Randy,
As for removing the Tamiya putty, I'm not sure but I think acetone might do the trick. As for using Apoxie sculpt, definatly go for it. In case you missed it, here's my review of the stuff.
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/review/845
As for removing the Tamiya putty, I'm not sure but I think acetone might do the trick. As for using Apoxie sculpt, definatly go for it. In case you missed it, here's my review of the stuff.
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/review/845
liberator
Luzon, Philippines
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Posted: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 - 03:23 PM UTC
hi there trabbott, well if you can sand the surface to remove the extra putty..you're lucky. any way the next choice to use is milliput putty..(for me). just follow instruction indicated at the package. check the picture.. i used a small screwdriver to dent the zimmerit surface. and curing time is quite longer.. you can rework your zimmerit just like a modelling clay.
warthog
Metro Manila, Philippines
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Posted: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 - 03:26 PM UTC
Hi Trabbott,
Have you tried sanding the putty...maybe that would work. Others might have better suggestions. If you want a cheaper medium to simulate zimmeret, my suggestion is to use elmer's wood putty. I find them easy to work with and if ever you make a mistake just scrape them...below is a sample outout using the wood putty.
Hope this helps...
Have you tried sanding the putty...maybe that would work. Others might have better suggestions. If you want a cheaper medium to simulate zimmeret, my suggestion is to use elmer's wood putty. I find them easy to work with and if ever you make a mistake just scrape them...below is a sample outout using the wood putty.
Hope this helps...
generalrazo
Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 - 03:36 PM UTC
I'll second liberator's oppinion of milliput...thats what I use.
Eddie
Eddie
Target_J
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
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Posted: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 - 07:04 PM UTC
Hi Randy,
Tamiya putty is removed easily using acetone-FREE nail polish remover.
As a matter of fact if you dip a cotton bud (i think others refer to it as q-tip) with acetone free nail poilish remover and mixed it with some putty, you get a very light consistency putty (close to liquid like putty) which fills gaps easily.
Just make sure it's the acetone-free type of nail polish remover.
Tamiya putty is removed easily using acetone-FREE nail polish remover.
As a matter of fact if you dip a cotton bud (i think others refer to it as q-tip) with acetone free nail poilish remover and mixed it with some putty, you get a very light consistency putty (close to liquid like putty) which fills gaps easily.
Just make sure it's the acetone-free type of nail polish remover.
blackeast19
Singapore / 新加坡
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Posted: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 - 07:55 PM UTC
Hi Randy,
I second Target_J's recommendations. Have tried that and the putty comes off easily, but you just have to bear with the awful smell of the solvent.
Meanwhile, I have switched to liquid putty from Mr Hobby and was quite happy with it, no mess..
Cheers!
I second Target_J's recommendations. Have tried that and the putty comes off easily, but you just have to bear with the awful smell of the solvent.
Meanwhile, I have switched to liquid putty from Mr Hobby and was quite happy with it, no mess..
Cheers!
keenan
Indiana, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 - 11:44 PM UTC
You may want to test what you are going to use to try to remove the putty on a sample of some sprue before hitting the model with it. I think acetone is going to haze the surface at best, melt it worst case.
I hot knife my zimmerit...
I did just get some "Zimm-it-Rite from R&J Enterprises and am going to try that on the next one.
Shaun
I hot knife my zimmerit...
I did just get some "Zimm-it-Rite from R&J Enterprises and am going to try that on the next one.
Shaun
MrMox
Aarhus, Denmark
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Posted: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 - 11:54 PM UTC
I used a standard tamiya putty applied thinly for this try.
I let i dry for a few seconds, 30 - 40 sec (its fast curing) and then i shaped it with a screwdriver (keep it clean and moist).
Finally I stroked it with a brush of humbrols liquid poly to get a more even surface.
I think it worked fine
Frag
Minnesota, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 - 04:07 AM UTC
I have always used Tamiya putty but here's an interesting "how to" for Milliput that I am going to try soon.
http://www.ww2modelmaker.com/articlepub/zimmmb.htm
http://www.ww2modelmaker.com/articlepub/zimmmb.htm
janwillem
Groningen, Netherlands
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Posted: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 - 04:48 AM UTC
I did the zimmerit with gleu once.
you don't have to work as fats as wit putty but "if" you screw up you ruin you're model.
But when it does work it looks good.
Al you do is draw the line's on with a pencil
then aply some revell Contacta liquid glue (work in small bits at a time) let it "melt" the plastic (withe melt I meen until it goes soft) and then make the lines with a needle or e scalpel. after you made the lines you take a old brush and gently "stab" the still soft plastic to make the surfes a little less smooth.
I used this techniek once and it tunrd uot great (but make sure you practice it first)
Jan-Willem
you don't have to work as fats as wit putty but "if" you screw up you ruin you're model.
But when it does work it looks good.
Al you do is draw the line's on with a pencil
then aply some revell Contacta liquid glue (work in small bits at a time) let it "melt" the plastic (withe melt I meen until it goes soft) and then make the lines with a needle or e scalpel. after you made the lines you take a old brush and gently "stab" the still soft plastic to make the surfes a little less smooth.
I used this techniek once and it tunrd uot great (but make sure you practice it first)
Jan-Willem
panic
Bayern, Germany
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Posted: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 - 04:50 AM UTC
This is my Tamiya Tiger I late with Milliput White putty applicated with AFV new Zimmerit Roller.
The kit's surface was only sanded and not treated by an Dremel-like tool. So the hardened putty could be easily removed on ares with damaged zimmerit. It looks a little bit overdone but i think it has to be seen more likely as a study..
Stefan
The kit's surface was only sanded and not treated by an Dremel-like tool. So the hardened putty could be easily removed on ares with damaged zimmerit. It looks a little bit overdone but i think it has to be seen more likely as a study..
Stefan
thebear
Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 - 05:54 AM UTC
I did mine with tamiya putty and the tamiya zimmerit tool ..I had no problems with it .
Rick
Rick