Hello everyone! First off I'd like to apologize for not posting lately, and for not putting any pics up yet. I've been quite busy. Next, I'd like to thank the moderator and all the members for making this one of the best sites on the internet, and for every one being so helpful when people have questions. A lot of other hobby groups are not so eager to help out others when they need a hand. So I'd like to give everyone a big THANK YOU!! Now on with my questions.
1. I just got done painting a M1A1 tank using Timiya desert yellow, but I'm not to happy with the color. It's a little brown and not enough yellow, does anybody know a good color to use for those types of vehicles? I will be starting a M2A2 bradley soon and I would like to know.
2. I plan on painting some Dragon figures soon and maybe doing a diorama. THe figures I have, have the desert uniform with the regular camoflage vest. What is teh easiest way to paint these figures? I thought of using a magic marker for some of the darker colors, but I figured I'd ask first.
3. I'm really interested in modern american ground force vehicles. And eventually I'd like to have a full collection of vehicles. But, I do not know all of them. Does anybody know of a list of vehicles that the military currently use.
4. Ive been looking for a M-109 paladine 1/35 scale model with no luck. would any one know where I could find it?
5. What is the name of the large military diesel truck that tows tanks?
6. I know this is off topic, but I figure while everyone is reading this, they might as well throw this answer out too. In my upcoming diorama, I would like to add water. What do you think the best kind of water is, and how do I create a ripple effect???
Well I apoligize for getting off topic, but If anybody knows the answer I would appreciate the help as allways. and if i get time i will try to post these in other forums.
Thanks
Jay
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
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More questions for the experts
ellevehc86
Michigan, United States
Joined: February 15, 2005
KitMaker: 162 posts
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Joined: February 15, 2005
KitMaker: 162 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 - 03:37 AM UTC
Burik
New Jersey, United States
Joined: March 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,437 posts
Armorama: 1,303 posts
Joined: March 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,437 posts
Armorama: 1,303 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 - 04:30 AM UTC
Jay:
1) Take a look at my Abrams under Models On Display. Some think that I got the color correct. It is a matter of opinion. At first I did not like mine, thinking it was too yellow, and not enough sand grey. Anyway, her is how I did mine (and I do not have an airbrush).
a) Spray can of Tamiya Light Sand. At first this is too yellow and matches that of the color on the Tamiya M1A1 box, which is also too yellow.
b) filter of Payne's Grey oil paint over the whole model. This provides some very nice tonal value and subtle streaks can be had. Even a blue filter would probably work. The point is, is that this provides the cool tonal value that is missed with the warm tonal value of the Tamiya paint. One might ask why not start w/ a cool toned pain to begin with. You can, but then some very subtle effects are not achieved and the model looks more one dimensional and toylike.
c) then proceed w/ the pin washes and highlighting with very light sand color of your choice in the middle of panels and on raised details.
d) weathering with brown washes in specific spots, including rain streaks.
Most of my post painting is done with oils after a base coat is laid down (in this case the Tamiya paint noted above).
2) I would not go w/ a magic marker. Some good hobby paint out of the bottle and good paint brushes ought to get it done for you. are you painting OIF1 camo or OIF2 camo (digital - Marines)? Shadowing and highlighting are important here too to get a realistic three dimensional effect. There are plenty of good descriptions here under the Figure forum and of course in magazines and books. EPI has a nice article here about painting Army camo.
3) The list is massive. You should do an internet search. Prime Portal website is very good for this too.
Abrams
Bradley
Humvees of all kinds
M113 is various guises
HEMTTs in various guises.
AAVP7
LAV
Stryker ...
4) Testors/Italeri makes one. I understand it has its shortcomings.
5) Do you mean the HET? Check out a recent thread under Rivert Review Board for a model of this. Very expensive!
6) Resin available at Micheal's is one way to go. It is clear and some subtle effects can be achieved as it is drying, by using a hairdryer. Others use some sort of sculpting medium, which you can not see through, but many types of water you can not anyway. You sculpt it w/ your ripples, and paint it, and then varnish it. Good to go.
Many here can describe better than I can. Good luck.
Bob
1) Take a look at my Abrams under Models On Display. Some think that I got the color correct. It is a matter of opinion. At first I did not like mine, thinking it was too yellow, and not enough sand grey. Anyway, her is how I did mine (and I do not have an airbrush).
a) Spray can of Tamiya Light Sand. At first this is too yellow and matches that of the color on the Tamiya M1A1 box, which is also too yellow.
b) filter of Payne's Grey oil paint over the whole model. This provides some very nice tonal value and subtle streaks can be had. Even a blue filter would probably work. The point is, is that this provides the cool tonal value that is missed with the warm tonal value of the Tamiya paint. One might ask why not start w/ a cool toned pain to begin with. You can, but then some very subtle effects are not achieved and the model looks more one dimensional and toylike.
c) then proceed w/ the pin washes and highlighting with very light sand color of your choice in the middle of panels and on raised details.
d) weathering with brown washes in specific spots, including rain streaks.
Most of my post painting is done with oils after a base coat is laid down (in this case the Tamiya paint noted above).
2) I would not go w/ a magic marker. Some good hobby paint out of the bottle and good paint brushes ought to get it done for you. are you painting OIF1 camo or OIF2 camo (digital - Marines)? Shadowing and highlighting are important here too to get a realistic three dimensional effect. There are plenty of good descriptions here under the Figure forum and of course in magazines and books. EPI has a nice article here about painting Army camo.
3) The list is massive. You should do an internet search. Prime Portal website is very good for this too.
Abrams
Bradley
Humvees of all kinds
M113 is various guises
HEMTTs in various guises.
AAVP7
LAV
Stryker ...
4) Testors/Italeri makes one. I understand it has its shortcomings.
5) Do you mean the HET? Check out a recent thread under Rivert Review Board for a model of this. Very expensive!
6) Resin available at Micheal's is one way to go. It is clear and some subtle effects can be achieved as it is drying, by using a hairdryer. Others use some sort of sculpting medium, which you can not see through, but many types of water you can not anyway. You sculpt it w/ your ripples, and paint it, and then varnish it. Good to go.
Many here can describe better than I can. Good luck.
Bob
ellevehc86
Michigan, United States
Joined: February 15, 2005
KitMaker: 162 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: February 15, 2005
KitMaker: 162 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 - 05:20 AM UTC
wow! Thanks for the tips, im going to try to look up a few of those vehicles in the internet. thanks!!!
Epi
Texas, United States
Joined: December 22, 2001
KitMaker: 3,586 posts
Armorama: 2,556 posts
Joined: December 22, 2001
KitMaker: 3,586 posts
Armorama: 2,556 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 - 05:51 AM UTC
Don't want to step on your toes here Bob!
It's the M88 that tows the track vehicles. The HEMMTT Wrecker is used mainly for towing wheeled vehicles.
I'm in the process of writing the review for one of the new Warrior OIF Marine sets. Along with that review, I am adding a "How To" on painting the desert MARPAT in 1/35th scale.
Don't forget 5 Ton's!
Bob pretty much covered it all. All the vehicle that he mentioned, except the Stryker are available in plastic. There are plenty of aftermarket stuff and conversions fro these vehicles too.
It's the M88 that tows the track vehicles. The HEMMTT Wrecker is used mainly for towing wheeled vehicles.
I'm in the process of writing the review for one of the new Warrior OIF Marine sets. Along with that review, I am adding a "How To" on painting the desert MARPAT in 1/35th scale.
Don't forget 5 Ton's!
Bob pretty much covered it all. All the vehicle that he mentioned, except the Stryker are available in plastic. There are plenty of aftermarket stuff and conversions fro these vehicles too.
Burik
New Jersey, United States
Joined: March 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,437 posts
Armorama: 1,303 posts
Joined: March 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,437 posts
Armorama: 1,303 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 - 05:59 AM UTC
Hi Pete. I figured Jay meant the HET for transporting tanks. You are right when it comes to TOWING tanks. The M88, which AFV Club makes a good one, is it.
Bob
Bob
Easy_Co
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: September 11, 2002
KitMaker: 1,933 posts
Armorama: 985 posts
Joined: September 11, 2002
KitMaker: 1,933 posts
Armorama: 985 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 - 06:00 AM UTC
Revell do the Palladin now, its not a bad kit but the barrel is not accurate its missing I dont know what its called but it looks like a riveted flange.I think you can get an aftter market barrel for it.
Epi
Texas, United States
Joined: December 22, 2001
KitMaker: 3,586 posts
Armorama: 2,556 posts
Joined: December 22, 2001
KitMaker: 3,586 posts
Armorama: 2,556 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 - 06:04 AM UTC
Yup, the AFV M88 is nice. MR Models and AEF Designs has an interior for it. I used the MR one and it is very good. I'm not sure on the AEF Designs one. Real Models makes a M88 Hercules conversion, but it is not worth the money. I think AEF does one too.
Vodnik
Warszawa, Poland
Joined: March 26, 2003
KitMaker: 4,342 posts
Armorama: 3,938 posts
Joined: March 26, 2003
KitMaker: 4,342 posts
Armorama: 3,938 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 - 06:12 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Revell do the Palladin now, its not a bad kit but the barrel is not accurate its missing I dont know what its called but it looks like a riveted flange.I think you can get an aftter market barrel for it.
Revell is the same kit as Italeri one, just with different decals. The barrel in the kit also has inaccurate fume extractor. The only available aftermarket barrel for Paladin is made by Barrel Depot, but unfortunately it is just metal copy of kit parts and is just as inaccurate as plastic equivalent...
Pawel