i'm new to the diorama world and i need some basic advice.
i have a styrofoam base carved out to the shape i need, now i need to know what i cover it with. Some type of plaster? tile grout i heard maybe?
any advice is extremely appreciated
-roy
Hosted by Darren Baker
base advice needed
airborne-roy
Ohio, United States
Joined: July 06, 2005
KitMaker: 3 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: July 06, 2005
KitMaker: 3 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 - 05:03 AM UTC
Davester444
England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: March 09, 2005
KitMaker: 850 posts
Armorama: 548 posts
Joined: March 09, 2005
KitMaker: 850 posts
Armorama: 548 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 - 05:14 AM UTC
There's a lot of things you can use. Celluclay is good, plaster cloth and plaster work well for some people. I use a mixture of white glue, water, and soil which has good effects for me. I think it is a matter of trying out a few different methods and finding the one you like most. I would recommend Celluclay. Very easy to use, just add water.
keenan
Indiana, United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,272 posts
Armorama: 2,844 posts
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,272 posts
Armorama: 2,844 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 - 05:18 AM UTC
Celluclay is instant paper mache. They carry it at Hobby Lobby if you have one nearby. It is what I use.
Shaun
Shaun
Stoner1313
Ohio, United States
Joined: June 16, 2005
KitMaker: 62 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: June 16, 2005
KitMaker: 62 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 - 05:20 AM UTC
i used this two step process for a hard shell to cover my styrofoam
first you cover the styrofoam in what is called plaster cloth. Its basically plaster already formed in cheesecloth for easy application. Can be found in any craft store (hobby lobby, even Michaels) for $10 for a roll of 8" by 180". Woodland scenics sells a roll with a fancy name for $5 more
You take this and just cut it into the size you want, drop it in water, then pull it out and stick it tho the styrofoam
one layer should be all you would need. Just be sure to take the residue in whereever you dip the sheets and use that to smooth the edges and overlaps
After this, take your basic plaster of paris mix it however told till it is basicaly gray water, then apply to the entire surface to cover any cracks and give a smooth surface. I would use 2 or 3 coats of the runny plaster to remove any cracks
This provides a cheap but still high quality cover for a base
first you cover the styrofoam in what is called plaster cloth. Its basically plaster already formed in cheesecloth for easy application. Can be found in any craft store (hobby lobby, even Michaels) for $10 for a roll of 8" by 180". Woodland scenics sells a roll with a fancy name for $5 more
You take this and just cut it into the size you want, drop it in water, then pull it out and stick it tho the styrofoam
one layer should be all you would need. Just be sure to take the residue in whereever you dip the sheets and use that to smooth the edges and overlaps
After this, take your basic plaster of paris mix it however told till it is basicaly gray water, then apply to the entire surface to cover any cracks and give a smooth surface. I would use 2 or 3 coats of the runny plaster to remove any cracks
This provides a cheap but still high quality cover for a base
AJLaFleche
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 - 05:23 AM UTC
Celluclay works for me. You'll also want to get something of a firmer base to which you can attach your styrofoam, such as a plaque. The styrofoam is not sturdy enough for handling and bearing weight.
bodymovin
California, United States
Joined: July 28, 2004
KitMaker: 544 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: July 28, 2004
KitMaker: 544 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 - 08:40 AM UTC
Hey there i have come up with a technique that works well for me. I use drywall compound or spackle (the stuff you use to cover holes in walls, u can pick it up at any home improvement store near the sheetrock section)
Okay so i spread the sheetrock compound over my base with a knife or spatula. This stuff is really gooey and sticks to your fingers etc so what i do is sift some dirt from my backyard, remeber sift dry dirt, and keep the consistency finer than sand.
So i have the dirt in a bowl and i sprinkle it over my wet spackle, the dirt allows a non-stick barrier between the wet spackle and my fingers. Now i shape the terrain and if some spackle shows through just sprinkle more dirt ontop. Whats cool about this is that you can take the tires or tracks from vehicles or boots from figures and press in that detail into the groundwork without getting your figure dirty. Also when it dries it gives a nice realistic surface for dirt.
Sometimes with spackle you may make a really thick layer and when it dries it contracts and sometimes forms cracks. U may respackle and dust with dirt in a thin layer to cover it, or u can just take some 50/50 water and white glue and add dirt over the cracks. Generally you should seal down the dirt with the 50/50 glue by spraying it over your base after it is dry. After that you may start painting and drybrushing your groundwork.
TIP: Sheetrock compound is dilutable by water so when your groundwork is dry and there is excess or jagged highspots you may take a damp rag and rub it off gently.
Hope this helps,
Ian
Okay so i spread the sheetrock compound over my base with a knife or spatula. This stuff is really gooey and sticks to your fingers etc so what i do is sift some dirt from my backyard, remeber sift dry dirt, and keep the consistency finer than sand.
So i have the dirt in a bowl and i sprinkle it over my wet spackle, the dirt allows a non-stick barrier between the wet spackle and my fingers. Now i shape the terrain and if some spackle shows through just sprinkle more dirt ontop. Whats cool about this is that you can take the tires or tracks from vehicles or boots from figures and press in that detail into the groundwork without getting your figure dirty. Also when it dries it gives a nice realistic surface for dirt.
Sometimes with spackle you may make a really thick layer and when it dries it contracts and sometimes forms cracks. U may respackle and dust with dirt in a thin layer to cover it, or u can just take some 50/50 water and white glue and add dirt over the cracks. Generally you should seal down the dirt with the 50/50 glue by spraying it over your base after it is dry. After that you may start painting and drybrushing your groundwork.
TIP: Sheetrock compound is dilutable by water so when your groundwork is dry and there is excess or jagged highspots you may take a damp rag and rub it off gently.
Hope this helps,
Ian
airborne-roy
Ohio, United States
Joined: July 06, 2005
KitMaker: 3 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: July 06, 2005
KitMaker: 3 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 - 09:14 AM UTC
thanks for all the help to a begineer guys
-roy
-roy
warthog
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: July 29, 2002
KitMaker: 1,460 posts
Armorama: 1,080 posts
Joined: July 29, 2002
KitMaker: 1,460 posts
Armorama: 1,080 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 - 10:46 AM UTC
I use wall putty over styrofoam. I think its similar or exactly the same as what Sticky mentioned in the previous post. The only difference is that I apply the dirt once the putty is dry using diluted PVA. See effect below -- Wall Putty, real earth and glue
Hope we were able to help...
Cheers
Hope we were able to help...
Cheers