Has anybody tried the Bragdon Enterprises weathering system?
It seems to work really well. It's a powder milled with a dry adhesive, so no clear coat.
Comes in 12 colors.
http://www.bragdonent.com/

Hmmm, I've seen that product in my hobby store a thousand times, but never really paid much attention to it. (the shop caters mostly to the railroaders there). I know it's made for the railroaders, but nothing says it can't be used on anything else. There are many other products that the RR guys use that have been adopted by us modelers.
You've got me real curious now...

M1, have you ever tried it, or do you know of anyone who has?

I'm using it on my M-4A3, looks very good

Ben,
Don´t forget to show us the model completed, and why don´t you review the use of these weathering system?
Cheers!

Good suggestion Paulo. We happen to have one of the best RR hobby stores in the country right here in Denver (Caboose Hobbies) and I have not only used quite a few of their products (mainly for dio's) but have also learned a lot from the people there.

Tread.

The sherman's almost completed and I should be able to do a review on it within the next few days.

How can I make winter camouflage on my 1/72 scale Sd.Kfz.7/2? The basic colour is Revell 16 Sand.

Please HELP!

Gabesz

Gabesz,
When I did my Sherman in a winter camo, I used baking soda and unsented hairspray to hold the baking soda in place. It seems to hold pretty well, and it hasn't yellowed yet. It's been two years since I added the snow to the tank. Some of the better armor builders may have better stuff that they use.


Different stroke for different folks

Penny,

I thought hairspray would find a good use someday!!

It actually would be a scary thought if one of the other guys told of this snow holding medium(they had a field day with me when I said I use my WIFE'S discarded pantyhose as grills and stuff... )

Hey Brian,
It has to be the pump bottle. The aresol will blow the stuff clean off. Finger nail polish remover is good for sanding down seem lines. No, it doesn't eat away the plastic, but a little on a Q-tip and rub it on the putty that is on the seem, and PRESTO. Just a little wet sanding, then paint. Being a girl does have a few advantages.

Thank You Penny,I think I'll try it! :-)

Gabesz,

My 'wee' bit of input regarding Winter whitewash;
(...and this is the quick version)

Step 1) First and formost I paint the tank (or whatever) the proper original camo colour that I would choose for the model if it wasn't going to be whitewashed at all. In other words, US OD green, german 3-tone, etc.

Step 2) (I use acrylics when I can) I mix together about 30% paint to 70% thinner, this is my 'whitewash' paint. With this I airbrush a light to medium coat (or cloud coat) over the entire model. Now, the catch here is to only allow the new whitewash coat to dry for a couple of minutes, that's all!

Step 3) Now here's where it starts to get a little interesting. You will need two (2) brushes at this point. One that is a fairly wide, flat brush with medium to soft bristles, and another with medium to stiff bristles. First take the med/soft brush and dip it in the acrylic paint thinner. Now dry the brush off like you would if you were getting ready to start dry brushing, but not quite. Leave a little more of the thinner on the brush than you would for dry brushing (practice makes perfect here ). Take the brush and begin 'painting' the sides of the model with the thinner. I call this "painting in reverse". This action will soften or reactivate the whitewash coat of paint. Don't worry, as long as you don't slather the thinner on your original or base coat will be unaffected. Now, while the whitewash coat is still soft, take the other brush, the med/stiff one and slowly start the "painting in reverse" action. Remember to always streak the paint in a downward fashion, or the way that gravity would draw any liquids. Continue this motion in small segments over the entire model. Be patient and take your time. What this does is create the basis for a field applied 'whitewash' that has seen both weather and wear. From here you begin the whole weathering and dirtying-down process, but that's another story...........

Hope my process makes sense. I feel it looks authentic. Most of the guys in the field back in the 1940's would apply their whitewash in almost exactly the same way. All we're doing with the "painting in reverse" tecnique is simulating the slow rinsing off of the applied whitewash.

Tread.

Semper Fi !

P.S. Hope I wasn't long winded there...

TreadHead!
Thanks Your answer to my question but I think I'll have some other question in this topic.

Hey Treadhead,

I agree whole heartedly with your technique for creating a worn out, field applied winter whirewash. Use the same method. I learned it from renowned armor modeller Chris Mrosko. I just used it on a King Tiger and it looks great. As you said you must be patient and take your time. This is the best method for a winter white wash. Good looking out.