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Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
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camo for stug III Ausf.G ??
janwillem
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Groningen, Netherlands
Joined: October 01, 2003
KitMaker: 1,236 posts
Armorama: 700 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 05:19 AM UTC
Hi guy's,
I've put on the dark yellow base but am now woundering what kind of camo patern to do.
Does any one have some tip's and/or photo's ??
And what pressior to set my compressor at and how mutch I should thin my paints (tamiya).
Tanks for any help you can gif me on this one

Jan-Willem
Blade48mrd
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Washington, United States
Joined: September 03, 2004
KitMaker: 1,185 posts
Armorama: 810 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 08:21 AM UTC
janwillem -

I'd say it depends on time/place that you want to depict. From 1943 on you'd be fine with dark yellow base, then use the green, red-brown, or green and red-brown (three color scheme) depending on what front, etc.The air brush question I'll leave to those more experienced.

Blade48mrd
AJLaFleche
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 08:35 AM UTC
Jan, Check your e-mail. I'm sending you a page with 4 profiles from Squadron's Stug III in action. All III G's. and in color. (well, pne's a sturmhawbitz but it should help.
thebear
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: November 15, 2002
KitMaker: 3,960 posts
Armorama: 3,579 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 09:15 AM UTC
Well Stugs were pretty well around from 1940 till the end of the conflict so your paint options are pretty wide open ..I guess we are talking Stug G though so anything with a base of dark yellow should do..
As for how I spray Tamiya paints my method is a little unorthodox but it works for me.. I thin my paint to around 65% to 70% thinner ...I spray at about 25 to 30 psi but I keep my nozzel almost closed ..just enough paint comes out to slowly see the color change after three or for passes over the same area.. I usually paint prime my tanks either black for allied equipement or early war german gray vehicles or a redbrown primer for dark yellow vehicles...
By thinning the paint this much I get alot of tonal differences just by the ammount of paint in different areas ...of course I always lighten the paint two or three times during my painting to get that preshaded look but I don't just lighten each panel in the middle but vary the tones all over ...I did a tiny hetzer this way and it took me almost eight hours to do a two tone job ,but the effect is nice ..try it ..you'll like it .


Rick
janwillem
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Groningen, Netherlands
Joined: October 01, 2003
KitMaker: 1,236 posts
Armorama: 700 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 09:55 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Jan, Check your e-mail. I'm sending you a page with 4 profiles from Squadron's Stug III in action. All III G's. and in color. (well, pne's a sturmhawbitz but it should help.



Thanx for the pictures, not shure witch one but they'll help.
Thanx again
Parks20
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Maryland, United States
Joined: December 18, 2004
KitMaker: 737 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 11:06 AM UTC
I thin my Tamiya paints with rubbing alcohol. I use a ratio of about 60/40-paint to thinner. I run my airbrush anywhere from 10psi up to 20psi depending on what I'm painting-thin lines, or base coat.... Once I get the basic paint job finished, I seal the model with Future floor wax to protect the paint, before I do any weathering. Tamiya paints spray great, but they are delicate and will scratch very easily. Good luck, I hope this helps some.
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