More here: M1A2 SEP
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M1A2 SEP done
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
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Posted: Sunday, July 31, 2005 - 10:47 AM UTC
Here is the M1A2 SEP that I am building for a customer. It has battle damage to the front right, damaging the front road wheel. It has been short tracked to compensate for the road wheel. It will eventually be pulled by an M88A1. Represents a vehicle from 4ID in OIF.
More here: M1A2 SEP
More here: M1A2 SEP
Burik
Joined: March 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,437 posts
Armorama: 1,303 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 31, 2005 - 04:35 PM UTC
Gino:
I like the replaced roadwheels. I like the idea of using the original sand colored bolts. Did you place a wash in the details? That might make it look more three dimensional. Maybe it's the lighting, though ...
The short track idea is wonderful. I will be interested to see this in the dio setting.
Bob
I like the replaced roadwheels. I like the idea of using the original sand colored bolts. Did you place a wash in the details? That might make it look more three dimensional. Maybe it's the lighting, though ...
The short track idea is wonderful. I will be interested to see this in the dio setting.
Bob
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
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Posted: Sunday, July 31, 2005 - 05:58 PM UTC
Thanks Bob. It has a wash, drybrushing, etc. Lightly weathered. I think it is the lighting, it doesn't show well in the pics. This one will be on a simple display base being pulled by the M88A1. Basiclly a desk set. It will have the owner's name, rank, and branch on it as well, similar to the last few farewell gifts, but with just a big name plate. The M88 represents one from his Company in OIF, he is an Ordnance officer, hence the M1A2 being pulled back for repairs.
Shado1
Joined: July 24, 2003
KitMaker: 211 posts
Armorama: 133 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 31, 2005 - 11:35 PM UTC
Excellent work, as always, Gino!
Your attention to detail is astounding.
It's great to see an Abrams in this configuration, too!
Your attention to detail is astounding.
It's great to see an Abrams in this configuration, too!
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
Posted: Monday, August 01, 2005 - 02:07 AM UTC
Nice, I too like the look of the replaced road wheel. Leaving the hub sand colored is something most modelers would not have done.
Did you forget to drill out the mud holes in the sprocket carrier?
Did you forget to drill out the mud holes in the sprocket carrier?
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Monday, August 01, 2005 - 02:50 AM UTC
Thanks Rob and Brian. I like the look of the replaced road wheels too.
No, I was just too lazy to drill them out. I know, I did all the work to make it a SEP (really not that hard), I should have done the sprockets as well. Oh well, I was ready to finish this one, it had been on the desk too long.
Quoted Text
Did you forget to drill out the mud holes in the sprocket carrier?
No, I was just too lazy to drill them out. I know, I did all the work to make it a SEP (really not that hard), I should have done the sprockets as well. Oh well, I was ready to finish this one, it had been on the desk too long.
Vodnik
Joined: March 26, 2003
KitMaker: 4,342 posts
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Posted: Monday, August 01, 2005 - 03:02 AM UTC
Gino,
You made one small, but noticable error while converting the kit to SEP. I know that you are not really an accuracy freak (like I am :-) ), so please let me know first if you want me to tell you where the error is.
Pawel
You made one small, but noticable error while converting the kit to SEP. I know that you are not really an accuracy freak (like I am :-) ), so please let me know first if you want me to tell you where the error is.
Pawel
EasyOff
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 926 posts
Armorama: 356 posts
Posted: Monday, August 01, 2005 - 03:10 AM UTC
Wow, that's the first time that I've ever seen a track in that configuration. Cool! I've got to agree with Burik, I love the fact that you used the original road wheel bolts. Sweet touch.
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
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Posted: Monday, August 01, 2005 - 03:21 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Gino,
You made one small, but noticable error while converting the kit to SEP. I know that you are not really an accuracy freak (like I am :-) ), so please let me know first if you want me to tell you where the error is.
Pawel
I'll bite. What is the supposed error?
Vodnik
Joined: March 26, 2003
KitMaker: 4,342 posts
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Posted: Monday, August 01, 2005 - 04:54 AM UTC
Quoted Text
What is the supposed error?
You added the cable conduit and junction box between VCSU and the smaller cable conduit that runs behind loader's hatch. The junction box and the cable conduit going to it are for connecting the EAPU on M1A1HC and M1A2. They are not used on SEP, as there are no electrical connections to the VCSU going on the turret top. All connections go on the bottom of the turret, so the box and conduit should not be there.
This is a small error and you did a great job with the model otherwise!
My next project is also M1A2 SEP, but I don't mean converting the M1A2 model
Pawel
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
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Posted: Monday, August 01, 2005 - 06:14 AM UTC
OK, small error. Maybe I'll remove it, maybe not. We'll see how I feel. Thanks.
I too am waiting for the Dragon M1A2 SEP. Do you have an advance copy for review? Don't keep us in suspense too long.
I too am waiting for the Dragon M1A2 SEP. Do you have an advance copy for review? Don't keep us in suspense too long.
Vodnik
Joined: March 26, 2003
KitMaker: 4,342 posts
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Posted: Monday, August 01, 2005 - 06:21 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I too am waiting for the Dragon M1A2 SEP. Do you have an advance copy for review? Don't keep us in suspense too long.
Gino,
I'm afraid I have to disappoint you a little bit
There are no advance review copies yet. There are not even test shots yet... Well, even CAD drawings are not finished yet......... We (i.e. DML with my small help) finalize the M1A1 AIM design now, as this will be released first. And there is still a couple of weeks of work on this one ahead of us. Only after that we will start to modify design for the SEP release (this is what I meant by "my next project"). So don't expect to see any SEP plastic for at least two months, possibly more.I can only promise that I do my best to make these kits worth the wait!
Pawel
mother
Joined: January 29, 2004
KitMaker: 3,836 posts
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Posted: Monday, August 01, 2005 - 06:43 AM UTC
Great job Gino, was looking forward to seeing it finished for the first post. I like the one pic of the battle damage to the front. As for the track in that configuration I to never seen that done before. Is that something practiced often. What would have caused such damage, RPG or a Road Mine! Can’t wait to see the rest.
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
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Posted: Monday, August 01, 2005 - 07:00 AM UTC
Pavel, Guess we will have to wait a while for a SEP model. I decided to see if I could easily remove the power box and conduit. They were sucessfully removed. Here is a new pic.
Joe, glad you like it. Still working on the M88A1. I'll post somepics of your baby when it gets a little further along. Short-tracking is done when damage has occurred to the suspension and is used as a fix to keep the vehicle in the fight. The actual vehicle that I based my model on had hit a mine and damaged the front road wheel and track.
Joe, glad you like it. Still working on the M88A1. I'll post somepics of your baby when it gets a little further along. Short-tracking is done when damage has occurred to the suspension and is used as a fix to keep the vehicle in the fight. The actual vehicle that I based my model on had hit a mine and damaged the front road wheel and track.
Vodnik
Joined: March 26, 2003
KitMaker: 4,342 posts
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Posted: Monday, August 01, 2005 - 07:15 AM UTC
Quoted Text
They were sucessfully removed.
That's more like it!
Now your great model is even better! Pawel
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
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Posted: Monday, August 01, 2005 - 12:20 PM UTC
Another very nice model. I'm curious about the short tracking-am I correct in assuming the track runs underneath one of the return rollers? If so, is it because it cannot handle the stresses of its new position? I ask because I've been wanting to do this with one of my Centurions, but can't really tell where it's routed. In the photo it appears as if the idler and at least one road wheel are still intact:
Given the Centurions different suspension system, would you say that the first TWO roadwheel stations are bypassed?
By the way, my reference, Technical Handbook for the Centurion Mks 1, 2, and 3, W.O. Code 1899, makes no mention of the correct process.
TIA
Given the Centurions different suspension system, would you say that the first TWO roadwheel stations are bypassed?
By the way, my reference, Technical Handbook for the Centurion Mks 1, 2, and 3, W.O. Code 1899, makes no mention of the correct process.
TIA
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
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Posted: Monday, August 01, 2005 - 12:45 PM UTC
On an Abrams, it is done as follows. The way I have done it is for a front portion of the suspension being damaged. The 2nd road wheel is removed and the 3rd road wheel arm is rotated to the front so it sticks forward and supplies tension toward the front and down. The track is shortened and threaded below the front return roller, then down and around the turned road wheel. Works pretty well.
Not sure how it would be on a Centurion. Your way sounds plausible though.
Not sure how it would be on a Centurion. Your way sounds plausible though.
jazza
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 2,709 posts
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Posted: Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 06:04 PM UTC
Very nice! After seeing your model, i just realised i went a little bit overboard with my M1A2. Looks like i added way too many back packs onto the turret.
Incidentally, i was trying to look out for the spare wheel which you fastended to the rear of the turret. Did you simply cement the spare wheel onto it and / or did you add a "wheel fastener" to make it look like it wouldnt fall off on the next bump?
Incidentally, i was trying to look out for the spare wheel which you fastended to the rear of the turret. Did you simply cement the spare wheel onto it and / or did you add a "wheel fastener" to make it look like it wouldnt fall off on the next bump?
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
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Posted: Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 06:06 PM UTC
Spare wheel...It also has a guide tooth holding it in place.
jazza
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 2,709 posts
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Posted: Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 06:18 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Spare wheel...It also has a guide tooth holding it in place.
hi Gino,
Was this the tamiya set that you constructed? I probably will go back and raid my box again but i dont recall seeing the guide tooth anywhere.
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
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Posted: Monday, August 22, 2005 - 01:55 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextSpare wheel...It also has a guide tooth holding it in place.
hi Gino,
Was this the tamiya set that you constructed? I probably will go back and raid my box again but i dont recall seeing the guide tooth anywhere.
This one is the Trumpeter M1A2. The guide tooth is not a separate piece in the kit. You have to take a spare track block and cut the center guide out of it.
jazza
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 2,709 posts
Armorama: 1,818 posts
Posted: Monday, August 22, 2005 - 01:14 PM UTC
any ideas how it even looks like? Been trying to find references on it but cant seem to find it. Im guessing its probably really simply looking but it would be nice to get it as accurate as possible.
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Monday, August 22, 2005 - 01:32 PM UTC
Quoted Text
any ideas how it even looks like? Been trying to find references on it but cant seem to find it. Im guessing its probably really simply looking but it would be nice to get it as accurate as possible.
It is pretty simple. Here is a pic to show it.
The centerguide for the road wheel has a bolt hole on each end. The bolt goes through the center guide, through the road wheel, and then into the outer portion of the center guide. It sandwiches the grunt bar in the process and hold the spare road wheel on.
jazza
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 2,709 posts
Armorama: 1,818 posts
Posted: Friday, August 26, 2005 - 04:42 PM UTC
Thanks very much for that. I was that close to scratch building the guide tooth. Silly me.
Silly me. 
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