Hi I was wondering about the best way to assemble individual links. It says to glue them, let them set and mold them, but doesnt the cement set after about 5 minutes? Is there a specific glue to use? thanks

Michael, the best way depends on the specific links you have, some can be pressed together and don't need cementing until after they are in place. A lot of them do however, and for this a normal styrene cement is used. I would assemble them in straight runs and then place them around the roadwheels, but don't wait for them to set completely, however, wait long enough so that they don't fall apart when placing.

Hope this helps!

Vinnie

I like to use super glue. I also add the tracks as one of the final steps in completing the model. After it has been fully painted and usually after the decals. This is how I do it.

Piece together and glue the flat runs (bottom and top sections of track, angled up pieces from bottom to first road wheel and sprockets) first. As they are setting, build about 4-5 tracks in a semi circle (using a road wheel and sproket as guides) to go around the 1st road wheel and sprocket. Add the angled pieces to the bottom run. Attach the curved pieces to either the top or angled pieces. You now should have a bottom and a top run. Fully paint and weather these track runs. I next attach them to the model as subassemblies, bottom and top tracks. Connect the two curved ends to te bottom/top runs and the trachk is complete.

Finish weathering the model for whatever conditions you desire.

Good luck.

To elaborate on what has been told here, include a ruler and some tape..As you assemble the top and bottom runs of track, use the ruler to keep the runs straight.. Test fit first, when you are happy, lay down the tape, sticky side up and start assembling.. A drop of glue to set each link with them stuck to the tape, it makes the runs easier to handleand install..

In fact, if you work it right, you can do a length to go around the sprockets.. When the glue has started to set up but not completly dry, you can drape the run over the sproket.. Make sense??

Dave

thanks for the help. How do you get the right sag in the top of the tracks? Ive thought about putting a support between the roadwheels and the track, but im not sure on the height. (or how to get it out again)

I make the tracks in four sittings. First evening, I make the bottom run ..... from front road wheel to the last.
Next evening I make a run, long enough to go from the the end of the previous length, and to go around the drive sprocket. When this sets, I glue both runs to the roadwheels and sprocket. Next evening I make a length that goes from the other end of the bottom run, and goes around the idler.
Last evening I make a run, that joins from the sprocket side to idler side. Its easy now to add or remove a link so both ends meet and the sag is acceptable. Im always afraid of ending anywhere else, in case its slightly too short or too long. Any small deviation in length can be incorporated into the sag.
As for glueing and how long ... same as the posts before.

Depends on what the vehicle is as to how much sag it should have. US Tanks form the M4 series on had very little sag, since they use "live" track which is under tension. German WWII and Russian tanks use a "dead" track system and have a lot of sag. I useually adda couple extra links to the top run if sag is warranted and use popsicle sticks between the track and fender to get the sag to stay while the glue sets.

Michael,

Check out this Armorama feature. Good article on indy tracks.

Hope this helps.

Shaun

https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/84